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If you're wiring them together, place the sub with dual leads first point of contact. Just what I would do. In theory both subs see the same power at the same time, but, just in case lol. Audio signal is A/C. There is no first point of contact. Positive and negitive is only relative.

Little update. The Mach5 MLI's are absolutely unreal for 6.5" drivers. I'm about 100% sure I'm right about the harmonic distortion in the Bravox's making them seem louder. After installing the MLI on the passenger side and getting them broke in they absolutely decimate the reproduction quality of the Bravox's without any noticeable difference in output besides the fact they definitely have stronger output on the lower frequencies than the Bravox mids did. When playing Alice in Chains - Would for example, the bass guitar can not just be heard but felt throughout it's range, even in the upper registers. At full tilt you can just about feel everything which has impressed many more than just me, lol. I have a buddy who's a big heavy metal nut that's always asking to hear one song or another to hear the difference in it. I've played The Zack Brown Band's Chicken Fried for a couple of different people and it scared them when they felt the string plucks of the guitar at the very beginning of the song, let alone the rest of it. I also installed the FR88EX's I bought from Hondakilla98 into the little Logitech enclosures on the dash to see what kind of difference I could hear between them and the FE85's. Now, don't get me wrong, the FE85's were absolutely amazing for their modest $13 price tag but the FR88's aren't coming out of the Jimmy until the fiberglass work to permanently mount the full rangers is complete. Even then they're only coming out to be replaced with the next model up, the FR89's. Today I also got the opportunity to drop the Soundstream Harmony in the Jimmy to start using it for processing instead of the capabilities of the CZ702. I don't know how there's not more of units something like this more widely available than there is. Sure, the laptop is a little gangly and cumbersome to have in your lap the entire time you're making adjustments but damn is it ever worth it. I had only a couple of little problem areas that I couldn't quite adjust enough on the Clarion due to the restraints of the built-in DSP but they're about gone now. The biggest issue I had was with the crossover for the midbass only being adjustable down to 630hz. I had to use the LP crossover on the 125.2 to get it the rest of the way down to the 250hz region to blend properly with the FR's. I still had some issues with some frequencies being a little "bloomy" near the crossover points on the top and bottom. I couldn't get the crossover points and EQ to find a happy medium with it. Thanks to the independent EQ's and the infinitely variable crossover frequencies the Harmony everything I've played on it so far is so much smoother than before. It's really hard to tell where the beginnings and ends of everything lies now. It's all blending better, sounding so much smoother, and that's only after a couple of hours of tuning. I can't wait to spend more and more time with it dialing in every little thing until it's about perfect! Overall this thing is sounding more and more ideal the more I work on it. It's no SPL show stopper by any means but the way it sounds and FEELS when I'm listening to it is beginning to truly meet my expectations. It doesn't do bad on output by any means, but when you hear and feel EVERYTHING and not just the sub bass at the output levels this thing is doing right now it's a whole different kinda loud. Here's a few pics of the Mach 5 in the passenger door and the Harmony installed. I gotta say, I don't really care for the look of the grilles that came with the Mach5's on my doors but I gotta have them protected and the grilles to the Bravox's wouldn't fit so I'm stuck with this for now. I was able to tuck the Harmony in behind the glove box. It's a tight fit and takes a little push to get the glove box to close but at this point I don't really have any place else it can go very easily.

And here they are, SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35-4 midbass drivers. These drivers have some of the best build quality I have ever seen, very impressed so far.

Simpsons marathon on FXX.....dear god. J

honestly for little stuff like hardware and seldom used tools, I love HF. For stuff I use on a daily or weekly basis I always end up buying the nice stuff, but when it comes down to some things; you're just buying the name.

FUCK YOU NVIDIA! RELEASE TO SHIT, OR AT LEAST THE SPECS SO I CAN GET WITH IT!!!!

When it comes to computer parts I am obsessive. I'm waiting on the 8xx cards to drop and then I might redo my whole system and get on an I7. Or maybe a dual Xenon rig with the new 12 core hyperthreaded chips. 48 threads FTMFW!!!!

10" mid isn't required, but the Seas will be COMPLETELY overwhelmed. Of course so would 4 of them. Can't have output and bandwidth, just not possible. Exactly why PA systems use a bunch of drivers. More drivers, more complexity, harder to tune, and will never blend as well...but you'll get output. No way, no how would I EVER run a 10" driver for playing midrange. It doesn't gain you anything.

I can't wait to get my 2 12s and put the power to them. Should do pretty good in my single cab truck on a ddm4.

Well, I got a chance to install one of the MLI-65's in the drivers side door. I had to open up the mounting hole in the baffle a tad to get the basket on the MLI to mount up properly. After that I jumped in and sat in the middle of the back seat for some A-B comparison listening. I gotta say I have mixed feelings and I also have to say that for all the praise I've seen on the MLI's for their midbass capabilities I gotta hand it to the Bravox mids cuz they're right up there with the MLI's. I didn't change any settings so they're both running bandpassed at 63hz to 300hz at 12dB slopes and I tried to position myself so there was as little variance as possible between listening to one and then the other. The first thing I noticed is that the overall output is very comparable. I also have to note that I don't think the 125.2 is enough power to feed the MLI's. With the Bravox's on songs with a strong bass drum beat I can turn it up enough to make them run out of throw. They don't bottom out the coil on the back plate but you can hear the suspension hit it's limit. At the same volume level that causes that with the Bravox mids the MLI seemed to just be cruising without a care in the world. It was moving like crazy but was completely quiet and distortion free while doing so. Speaking of distortion, the MLI seems to have a great ability at being extremely low in distortion at the frequencies and levels I was playing it at. I can get the Bravox to stress a little at high volume levels but the MLI just kinda laughs at me. The one thing I'm noticing is that the Bravox seems to have a little more output above 100hz than the MLI while the MLI definitely has more output below 100hz. Now, this is a guess and what I'm noticing by just listening, no measurement equipment to verify it so understand it's just my gut feeling here. It almost seems as though the louder upper bass frequencies of the Bravox are a phenomenon of some harmonic distortion at high output levels at those frequencies. When turned down a little the Bravox does smooth out some but still has more "presence" in the upper bass. At this point I'm just a little torn by my findings on which I prefer. I do believe I'm going to go ahead and do the modification to the passenger door and make a permanent installation of the MLI's for awhile and get some real listening time on them while getting them broke in and see if I feel like I'm have any detriments I can't live with compared to the Bravox. If they happen to not work out I'm sure I can easily sell the slightly used MLI's on the forum.

Terminology doesn't make it non existent. Most people know it as box rise for those not being technical. And electrical system plays a LARGE role in it's effects to. For those who compete, it's easily measurable. That's why in some classes in competition, it's better to remove some batteries in the install to prevent the amplifiers from running at such a low impedance. Your impedance "curve" alters what each frequency in the playable spectrum will be but if a user measures that, that information can greatly be changed\altered by upgrading\downgrading your electrical system... Whatever the purpose is.

If you're wiring them together, place the sub with dual leads first point of contact. Just what I would do. In theory both subs see the same power at the same time, but, just in case lol.