Leaderboard

Been taking a lot of defensive classes too. Close range shooting, hands on, and competitive classes. I had no idea how little I really knew. I don't plan on competing, but I have been watching friends' videos of comps and wanted to learn. I've put about 600 rounds down range with the rifle this summer, and I have pumped well over 1000 rounds through my 9mm and my 40.

While from a photography perspective the small F stop is nice...I can't see for shit what you are shooting at

little update : I put the rear battery under the box, in the spare tire location. You can see how much room I gained ! Now there is another piece of carpeted wood to cover that "hole", so it's cleaner than this picture.

Hey, ho, that is TEENY. Alongside my annoyingly new passport. Other one was out of pages so I had to up it early.

The answer is in the description of what it does. Can CLD help on plastic? Sure, but it is somewhat a waste of product.

Any CCF is fine. Open cell holds water. What a manufacturer labels it has nothing to do with what problems it will solve

Alpine stuff is all mass produced and "identical". Quotes due to manufacturing tolerances not making that completely possible. What I meant by buzz was that there are two spots rubbing/buzzing/making noise. You need to separate those with something soft. ie, CCF.

Depends on what you can find locally. 1/4" or so is fine. Just want something soft between buzzing points. For rattles any which way to apply it is fine. Glue, Velcro, Tape, just need it to be in between what buzzes. By deadener I meant CLD. Constrained Layer Damper which turns vibration energy in your panels into heat. Metal is your target, but if you are flopping plastic it can be a cure but there are plenty of other simple cures for that too. Go to Sound Deadener Showdown and read some install hints. Will expedite your learning WAY faster than any forum conversation.

No you misread what I said. They do not make custom crossovers for every driver. They should, but they should make the measurements to do so in your car. Obviously that isn't happening... As for the buzz, it is time for some closed cell foam. Put it in between anything that rattles. If you are going back into your doors though spending some time with some other deadening would be a real good idea

And the set is generic anyways. Meaning ie the crossover components weren't chosen for your speakers but any of the ones they could ship in that set. Single driver trade is no problem. No worse than it was brand new anyways.

Used or new will work the same.

I've never actually seen a shop build what they promised.

Great shop of yours should have set your ssf right...

Just whats they say in the store about it. http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/american-bass-hd-15-inch-1500w-rms-dvc-subwoofer.html Full T/S tells you everything you need to know

Why not spend $150 on mids and $100 on the miniDSP? Same budget, better performance. If you don't love the mids later sell them and upgrade. It is really hard to shop without hearing some things first. A used set of Seas CA18 or ER18 would be a great starting point mated wit the miniDSP.

The Revelator needs a box, terrible IB in a door. Your price performance is confused. These aren't good speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160-4-6-1-2-classic-woofer-speaker--295-309 ....and should be about $16 each; however, they are WAY better than what you will get in a $300 component set. If you will EVER run active buying a NEW component set is idiotic. As for your "extra" channel question. That adds a lot of cost and you an always add a second two channel later. The answer lies in your needs. Do you currently EQ your sub? If not, why do you want a proc for it? If you HAVE to buy NEW a set and need to stay in budget a pair of Dayton RS180's and a Minidsp will Absolutely Destroy any component set that cost WAY more.

It would be good to know what tweeter you are pairing these with too...

No you don't. 4 ohm mids are stupid. You gain nothing and lose a lot.

You don't gain output by going to a 4 ohm speaker. Sure you use twice the power, but even then remember in an ideal world that is a barely noticeable difference IF none of the other parameters change. By default they have to and that is never for the better. I haven't run 4ohm mids in my car since the 90's.

The prices are so close now I'd buy the ERs

Beware the deceit he showed towards customers is disgusting.

DSS has pro My complaints with SI isnt the products but the owner. Problems with the DSS owner and the products.

If they are wired right which isn't all that hard, the problem is how you are setting your gain and using your volume knob.

The way you throw wattage terms around proves you aren't sure how to set things up. You can easily put a 1000w amp on a 20w speaker WHEN you set the gain and use the volume knob right. As for blowing a speaker there are really only two ways they fail. Thermally you overheat them and they come apart due to this or you exceed their mechanical capability. Both are directly proportional to the volume knob/gain setting. As for why it is only the right, we need some more details on your setup. Including all settings in your head unit and amp. I always run my right side hotter than my left....

Wires wrong doesn't matter, just flips the phase of the tweeter. That being said, I have NEVER had an installation where it didn't sound BETTER to have at least one of the drivers have their phase swapped by changing the +/- to it. Balance, Fader, EQ, Headunit crossover? One abstract possibility is that your headunit source is louder on the passenger channel. Play a pure tone in stereo and measure the voltage out of both RCA's. Your gain setting procedure can be fine as long as you hear distortion and that you ALWAYS listen for distortion every time you turn the volume up. You can't just set the gain/volume knob one time as EVERY piece of music is different meaning you need to listen and adjust all the time.

What crossovers do you have?

That is easy...anything with a real crossover and more importantly a real installation. I'd just buy something used and finally figure out what you like or don't.

Model a teeny enclosure around a driver that isn't meant for it and you'll see what you want to know.

Yep. Choked is the right word.

You can't get any of them. All will be as bad of failures as the PWX. They NEED processing. That and buying brands is ridiculous, favoring some not. Installation determines the driver. Location, processing, goals, deadening, aiming etc. all determine what driver can work well. Your buddy sounds to be confused.

Umm, not really. If so then you would have SHARED all the above because they all make a HUGE difference on which driver can work. Being aware means you select the driver based on them, no one can help you if you don't share that information. Exactly why I stated if he recommended the three brands blindly without taking that into account then his advice is worthless.