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OK, now you're talking to a serious guy ! I bought a PSP port a few years ago. It was nice, but I will never do that again : now, I use PVC tubes, and I can flare both ends. It's not perfect as a PSP port, but it's MUCH cheaper, I can found what I need locally, ready to use. With a good looking paint, I can even show it outside the box (to save box volume).

Its just a link to a web page. The calculator was created in Google Docs so I think it should work fine from your phone. It does take a lot of port area for these higher power systems. Its just like the exhaust on a car though, if you make a lot of horsepower you need to flow a lot of exhaust. I think the "9-12 sq in per cube" guideline for aero ports is robbing a lot of folks of a LOT of output. The nasty part about an undersized port isn't so much the port noise (which is annoying) its the port compression. Its the silent killer, it robs you of output but you don't hear the output you aren't getting. Its hard to notice the absence of something. It can easily rob you of 3 dB or more of output around tuning, that like throwing half your amplifier power (or more) out the window. As far as a port being too big and resulting in a sub bottoming out easier, that's at least 90% false. If the port ISN'T big enough it will actually result in MORE cone excursion around the tuning frequency, not less. Much below tuning I can see where a larger port MIGHT result in higher cone excursion, but at those frequencies you are at the point where the box is no longer providing mechanical control regardless of port size and you should be using something else to prevent mechanical damage (like a high pass filter AKA subsonic filter).