ulrisa

They are in a 4 cube net enclosure tuned to 32 hz. I do have extra room, but I wouldn't say a lot lol. I do have an extra battery, its a C&D High Rate 110 AH battery I believe, and I have a Yellow top D34 in the front. I have a stock 120 amp alt, and if you have any less I'd recommend keeping the gain down until you have a better one. My electrical is like just enough for this system, so I plan on upgrading it to get it's full potential. Also, when you put a huge box like this in your trunk, make sure to get everything in place first lol. I got excited with mine and started sealing the trunk and realized it was going to be really hard to add trim pieces and such without taking the box out.

This is what I do as well, it's the only surefire way to know that you are getting the least resistance. OP I noticed you did 2 1/0 runs on the positive, but did you do two 1/0 chassis grounds when you did the big 3? The ground is just as important as the positive. Tomorrow i'm going to go through everything and double up where its not. I'm prepping for the up coming show. Wouldn't that be the same as grounding straight to the frame though or is grounding to the batt better? It is, but my battery is closer than my frame Gotcha, in my bed where my 4 XS batts are i'm only using 1 run of 0awg wire to connect each batt. Like so; I'm thinking about doubling up on it, sound like a good idea to you guys? I wouldn't bother with such short runs, with 1/0 there isn't very much resistance with such a small run, its the long runs that it really helps.

This is what I do as well, it's the only surefire way to know that you are getting the least resistance. OP I noticed you did 2 1/0 runs on the positive, but did you do two 1/0 chassis grounds when you did the big 3? The ground is just as important as the positive.

Thanks guys!

Haha, the carbons get all the love. I'll make an excursion video next of both. I love them! I think they are very similar or actually are a comparable seas or morel model, not sure which. They get really loud, but still sound very accurate. The stock dash mounting locations worked out great too, the imaging/staging was really easy. I guess Volvo did something right in the audio department lol.

Congrats! You are definitely one of the more knowledgeable users on this forum!

Haha this was before your request lol. If I go home this weekend I'll make one of the carbons in action. I actually did a paper trick first and the piece of paper ripped to shreds and got sucked into the port. I was like, hmmm that's not good lol. Then a couple seconds later it came flying out into my face lol. If you put your hand in front of the port it actually sucks it in, it's a crazy amount of force.

Hi- This is footage from a while ago, I finally felt like editing it and posting it tonight! Let me know what you think! If you go to the actual page you can view it in 720p as well.

It will not give you any gain, the cable essentially splits the voltage between the two.

I have two 12" Xcons in a trunk, and they sound awesome! Definitely don't regret it, I was actually in the exact same boat as you. Even though I designed a box that could fit, the extra work would have been wayyy too much. I have a video if you'd like to see a glimpse of the damage (cameras don't pick up much).

Haha, it's the same way for me. They wouldn't let me borrow an o-scope so I am hoping to buy one at some point. Off topic, but good luck with your classes! It only gets more and more painful... I mean fun lol.

Some person said that I could Fry the coil overs or something like that if you run an amp smaller than the recommended subwoofer power. You actually generally want an amplifier with an rms value higher than the subwoofer's requirement for headroom as a preventative measure for clipping. I would just get an amplifier rated at 1500 rms for that sub. No sense in using so much room for a 21" if it's not even being powered fully. I'd definitely recommend a 20.1, I love my 40.1. It is the most solid amp I've seen in person. Sundown and Stetsom make some pretty solid amps too, take a look at the SSA store.

Mark said that is a wrap. Either way it looks awesome lol.

Wow, all of these are nice, but I really like the paint job on this one!

I'd also recommend making it a secondary battery rather than a replacement. I found having a battery in the back helped a lot more than just upgrading the front one.

Just wanted to say, LUCKY! lol. On volvo's the track will break if you aren't careful. Hopefully the OP has one like yours.

I don't vent my sunroof when I have music playing because it will weaken the structure of the roof and cause it to flex even more. Also, if you do break your sunroof with bass, which is possible, you really don't want to break and stay open. I doubt you are going to have any problems if you just keep it closed. Also if your sunroof rattles, if it's like mine and can retract into the roof or vent, put a piece of closed cell foam where the sunroof sits in the tray when it is closed (if that makes any sense lol) and close the sunroof on it. This reduced my rattle from incredibly annoying to almost non-existent, in my case anyway.

I could prob even do 10 gauge to save some money LOL I think you can tell Im in saving mode thats why I cant spend much right now Its almost double the price of what I posted. Thats why I didnt consider it. Yeah, I could definitely tell you are in saving mode lol. I just did a couple calculations, and 10 awg would be ok, but for the cheapness of 8 awg it's a lot better. Just think, less voltage drop due to resistance of the wire. Plus you have to factor in the efficiency of that amp which is probably low. I think 8 awg on knukonceptz is less than a $1 a foot. That Boss amp is pretty damn nice though lol.

Bet you are excited to get these in the car! I was going to get a video up sometime for you, but I guess you won't need me to lol.

If you need something cheap try looking for some used amps. 30 watts is a little better, but I'm sure if you look around you could get a pretty decent amp for <$100. I like this one http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17518_Power+Acoustik+OVN2-600.html But never had experience with Power Acoustik, I think they are overrated right? My components are 80rms and I would still run them with the crossover just to be safe. And for this, 8 gauge should be MORE than enough right? I think that would be fine. 8 awg is plenty for such a small amp.

If you need something cheap try looking for some used amps. 30 watts is a little better, but I'm sure if you look around you could get a pretty decent amp for <$100.

While the sealed doors really help, my speakers were being run active the whole time. Deadening will help a lot, but the amp is definitely something you want to get first. You could probably pick up a pretty cheap amp for just 80 watts rms x 2, then get some deadening when you have the money. You really need both an amp and deadening to get the max amount of midbass out of those speakers. Once you do that, those 6x8's are going to be a distant memory because your new speakers should blow them out of the water. Good luck, and I'm happy my build log helped you .

You could use something like this http://store.solar-electric.com/hacrtoforlal.html or you could just use a vice. I've used both methods, the special crimper works well but the vice isn't too bad if you don't have the money or a lot of connections to crimp.

I actually sealed my doors with SDS CLD tiles and it is in my build log. Ulrisa's Build I would also recommend that you talk to Don, but there are some good pictures in there for reference. It's near the bottom of the first page. The best way to do it is to make panels that are removable out of fiberglass or something, in case you want to take it off later or a mechanic needs to get in there. In my case it didn't really matter because my dad is my mechanic and I don't plan on taking it off the doors lol.

Thanks Mark! That's awesome! Pretty sweet to see my ride on the internet haha.