ppiflat10s

and obviously a calculator to calculate the displacement of the port that winisd is giving me, then see if I can still get the volume I need, if not change my volume in winisd, then recalculate the displacement of the port again to see if I can then have the internal volume I need, if not, step 1-4 again and again.

I use winisd, mostly just to calculate port area/lengths to box volume, not really to model the freq. response or anything. most of the time I dont really have all the specs for the sub anyways, so not sure if it would really give me accurate results anyways.

never heard their subs in person, but theres plenty of people who are happy with their stuff (not here though it seems). Ive also owned a Nine.2x and a NINe.1 and thought they were both great amps and only reason I dont have them is money problems both times. in all honesty I wouldnt think the price you could get for them would drop much further if they were barely used but looked brand new vs unused looking brand new. Im not sure but Im guessing the warranty on them isnt transferable. so it wouldnt hurt to try them out.

look on ebay for amps like the rf 300.1, mtx 250d, bp300.1, etc.. they all should do 300+ @ 14 volts at 2 ohms. and sometimes can be picked up for a good price. it'll go up im sure but maybe not too much, ive had one of these it was a good amp. http://cgi.ebay.com/JBL-PowerValve-BP300-1-Car-Amp_W0QQitemZ200383706575QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item2ea7ccb5cf&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Id keep the planet audio and run the comps off the front, and bridge the rear for a sub later on. Im guessing it probably pushes around 300x1@4 ohms bridged?

Just add that to the displacement with your subwoofer, bracing(if any) and it shouldnt change things by that much (your box volume and tuning frequency will be different from what you first calculated). If it is not to your liking then build another box and just make it better, not that big of a problem. my most recent box I built, the port displacement was .7 ft^3, had I made the box the correct size including the port, and having the port take some of that away (granted only half of his are in the box, so take off .35) it would have raised my tuning from 35 to 40 hz. and he has 2 ports so they need to be longer to keep tuning than if he had one, so he likely has a worse scenario than my situation would have been. but the box is already built so might as well put it the car and see how it sounds before you build another one. of course if you have room and can add onto the length of your ports outside of the box it will lower the tuning some.

Im a little curious about that? deaden and seal. you mean deaden the inner door skin? or outer? both? also when you say seal would running the sheets of deadener over any cutouts in the inner door skin be enough?

yeah, I dont work with people around either, but thats me. any time I worked on a friends car as a favor, I told them Id only do it if they stay away while im working. lol

not even the internal volume of the internal part of the port is calculated into the box volume. dont worry about the external part of the port for any other reason than to get the port to the right length, and only subtract the displacement of the internal part of the port. so the airspace inside the internal port section (as well as the displacement of the port wall) gets subtracted from the boxes volume, not added on. hope thats clearer.

go into the sections on here for the box builders, take a few looks at the boxes they built, and it will give you a good idea of what the inside of a box looks looks like (I always have 90 degree corners in mine though, might try and step my game up next time) also, if you give someone your maximum outside measurements for the box, someone could whip up a port size and depth and box size pretty quickly. I wouldnt have a 45hz tuning im my daily car.

I got my stuff out of the bags at home depot, 2 brass machine screws - .98, 8 brass washers - .98, 4 brass nuts - .98, 4 wingnuts - 3.92. I could have done it without the wingnuts inside but I just wanted to make it as easy as possible to remove the sub later on and since I cant see in the box, a wingnut is easier than a little crescent wrench.

surface area of the port is just using the face of it, nothing to do with the volume. so if its a 3" port, its pie*r^2 or whatever the formula is for the area of a circle. and to get the internal volume of the box, you take the inside measurements and multiply LxWxH, divide by 1728 and theres your gross volume, then you take the displacement of the sub off of that, and then you take the surface area of the port times the depth of it inside the box, divide that number by 1728 to get the port displacement, and then after you subtract sub/port displacement then you have your net volume.

I used some brass hardware from home depot, and had no problems. but I only gotta get under 200 watts through there. not sure how Id test it. Im guessing I could put the dmm to each end of a wire, then bolt 2 peices of wire to it, and put the dmm and see if the resistance rises. dont think my dmm could see a change that small. I put some liquid nails on the threads and around the washer and inserted it from the inside. no leaks whatsoever.

I have the ryobi table saw from home depot. the 2 hundred something one though on a wheeled stand and a telescoping table. you do have to measure the front and rear of the fence for a straight cut, but until you spend more on the fence than the saw its gonna be like that. as long as I dont need to cut anything over 28 its real nice, I can go to 33 about but the outer part of the table starts to sage with a full 8" length and then it ends up cutting a slight meiter. but Ive built a few boxes with it and love it compared to the worm drive. I do use my worm drive to cut everytihng to a rough size leaving one factory edge to rip from though.

what do you want the box for? I wouldnt put anything tuned that high in a car I was going to drive everyday. but I also personally wouldnt spend that much on a box anyways, a sheet of mdf only costs 28 bucks. I do have NO idea of what the average cost is for a custom box. remember though, if that is a decent price for a custom box, it was custom for someone else, maybe not custom for what you would have wanted.

the hurculiner smell goes away over time, right? or does the cab still always smell a little bit inside on a hot day when you first get in?

well, whatever you use your boxes look awesome, Ill probably use some rhino lining on mine or something...

I guess its time to hit up google and do some searching I guess. wanna make my next box fancy! on the L7 box you posted, is that black section automotive paint?

which one of these would be the correct way to measure the port length? entrance of one and exit of the other maybe? also, does a flare just help with port noise? and does that brace inside the port do anything to the tuning? raise it a bit maybe?

so would I be correct in assuming a ported enclosure actually increases the subs power handling of the thermal variety, because in a sealed box the air going in and out of the pole vent cooling the coils is just stuck in the box getting hotter and hotter with no way to cool it except the MDF itself absorbing some heat and radiating it away, while a ported box will allow some of the heat to escape the port? and with a ported box, a SSF helps the sub from.. "unloading".. right? not sure what that means but im guessing playing a tone far below the tuning frequency with alot of power will let the sub move too much, and so a SSF will help the mechanical "power limit", right? about the amp, which would be most likely to actually put out its rated power. kenwood, Maxxsonics(Hifonics Brutus/Autotek Street Machine/MB Quart Discus), Planet audio, or diamond audio? Im also watching a used BP1200.1, orion 1200D, and MM1400.1D

alright, this isnt really about the subs in general, but I am not starting a build log right now so figured this is where it should go. I recently picked up a trio of ppi pcx102 dual 2 10" flat cones. I am going to wire them to a 1.33 ohm load, got a few ideas on amps but am wondering about how much power I could give to them. they are rated at 250 rms but was wondering if they could possibly handle a little more as long as its clean? I have more than this but am willing to devote about 5.5 cubes before port and sub to this build. I dont think 3 10s need that much air, but I have it if needed. subs will be forward firing for no other reason than the fact that I can then throw whatever in the trunk whenever and not worry about the subs. it will be in a 93 accord sedan. I am thinking of trying sealed but am going to build my box in a way that the back sits inside of longer top/bottom/sides so that if I think it isnt enough I can move the back farther and throw a port on the face, and if it is enough then cut the top/bottom/sides right after the back piece to shrink the box. I was thinking of trying out about 2.7 cubes net sealed and then about 4 cubes net tuned at 33 w/ 50in^2 of port area. if sealed should it be seperate chambers? the smaller sealed box will handle more power, correct? I am going to have a SSF on whichever amp I get in case I do port them. Im thinking of getting a nice 1200 watt amp just in case I want to upgrade some day. deck is a panasonic 903. Im going to put my 4 channel under my passenger seat, is it acceptable to run 0 to there, a d block with 8 to the 4 channel and 4 to the sub amp since I wont be cranking out near the 1500 watts possible from the underrated 1200's floating around. I guess my last question could be what does everybody think of these subs? doesnt matter too much since I feel I got em pretty cheap. Ive seen one vid on youtube and they seem to hit pretty good although it was 4, not 3, plus it was youtube and who knows what it sounds like in real life. just guessing id say they have just over 1 cube each. is it alright to have the port like that in relation to the subs?