ppiflat10s

DAMN!!! I took the crossovers and switched them and the pass. door still worked and the drivers didnt. so I took the tweet out of the drivers door because I thought maybe it was a bad connection at the point between the wires to the xover, and the hardwired wires from the tweet, and then just touched the tweet wires to the output at the xover and no go, so just as a last resort I went to the other side door, and touched it to that xover and still nothing. so its the tweet. or the wiring inside the case(but I cant get in there). so now I have to email the seller and see if I can just send the tweet only in and have them open a package and swap them out and do whatever they do with their returned merchandise.

I checked your build logs and from just a vent, a taillight shot, and one of the bottom of part of the side I cant be sure on what car you drive, Im guessing grand am, anyways, this might be it, if not just go to his other items and search for your car. I got my notice that they tried to deliver it (way out in the country so boxes are at the beginning of the road out here, and the tint didnt fit, so instead of installing it today, im waiting to get it on monday after work and then install it tuesday. after I get it in(or just attempt to) Ill let you know if they do fit like they sat they should. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pontiac-Grand-Am-2-Dr-1992-1993-1994-1995-PreCut-Tint_W0QQitemZ180284861285QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item29f9d0ab65

well, that would add thermal power handling, but the suspension isnt changed, so there would still be the problem of running so much power at it in a larger enclosure. and shizzon, what is the benefit of a port like that instead of doing a 90 and running on the back wall? I see youve drawn quite a few like that and was thinking it must have some benefit.

just saw the .17 for the sub. so change the length from 30 5/8" to 30 3/8" to keep it at 3.0 tuned to 33Hz

again assuming .2 displacement for the sub, this box is 3.0@33Hz. and it will still work to adjust the box length 3/8" for .05 cubes of different sub displacement.

ok, just read your edited post, and from the box I drew, a 33Hz tuning will lengthen the port, and shrink the volume more. also, I saw you said you had 35" to work with but if this is going into a trunk rear firing you have to have space somewhere around the box for the bass to enter the cabin which is why I didnt use the whole 35". Ill draw one up in a second that has a little less port area and see if I can get 3 cubes tuned to 33 in that same space.

just double checked myself and its [email protected] assuming .2 sub displacement.

I have no idea the sub displacement of an HDC3 12, but I just figured somewhere around .2 even though its probably greater than that. but assuming .2 sub displacement it puts this box at 2.8@35Hz if you find out the exact displacement of the sub, an easy way to adjust the box is just to make the box 3/8" longer for every .05 cubes of additional sub displacement. and each piece is labeled as its cut size, with a top and bottom being cut at 17"x30.75" (or whatever length you end up adjusting the length to).

your not taking into consideration the port displacement when getting your 4.3 ft^3 also, taking your outside dimensions and then subtracting 3/4" material, you actually get these numbers for inside dimensions, which is 3.7 ft^3. 30x16x17 minus 1-1/2" (3/4" material on both sides) 28.5x14.5x15.5 then say 3.7x16" of port is 60in^2 of port. 4"x14.5" and I wouldnt tune higher than 35 for daily, which gives a port length of 27". not getting very detailed on the displacement of an L port, it would roughly be 4.75(4" port width plus 3/4" material again) x 14.5x27=1.07 ft^3 port displacement. so now you got a box of 3.7-1.07=2.63 ft^3 tuned to 35. but now since the net volume is less you can shrink the port area which will give back some net volume and you can then shorten the port up for some more net volume. might want to drop to a 12 so that after port and sub displacement you can still run a large enough box. if I get some free time later on Ill draw something up and see the exact numbers you could get in that space. dont wanna do all the math right now.

gotta take the drivers door panel off and see what that tweet isnt making any sound. its pretty loud, and the back seat gives you a real nice massage. no roof flex or anything crazy but you can barely see the door pushing out. and on some songs the rear view mirror is absolutely useless and changes its angle by itself, ratles like hell too. I set it by ear first and the subs sounded fine, but I was giving 250 RMS subs 400 a piece so I cranked it back and now they are getting around 250-275 a piece. Im downloading a bunch of songs from the "spl show off" section, but this is just off some music I already have on the thumb drive. video up in a minute.

thats definitely too much amp for 8 gauge wiring, that much power is even pushing it running 4 gauge. go to something like weldingsupply.com and get some 1/0 welding cable to run from your battery to a distribution block near your amp, then run a short length of 4 gauge from the block to the amp. unless that amp accepts straight 1/0 wire. also get enough 1/0 to do the big 3 while you are at it. not sure what size fuse youd want to run after this though, but something at least as big as the 90 amp fuse rating on the amp.

what would you say is a little on the large side? 5-6? or bigger? and Ill have to do some research on a T line

Ive been thinking about building a box for the home theater. my tv is about 48" wide, and at the back, its about 40" wide, but it is only about 16" deep, so theres lots of room behind it in the corner and I was going to build a triangular box to fill the empty space. I already have a old RF stage 1 12. I see the Fs and VAS specs used alot for HT and this subs Fs isnt too high at 27 and the suspension must be somewhat loose at 80L equivalence, not real high, but better than most subs Ive come across. rest of the specs can be found here. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scripts/rightnow.cfg/php.exe/enduser/fattach_get.php?p_sid=FtNpc2Kj&p_tbl=9&p_id=273&p_created=1083013966 its just going to be powered off of our theater in a box receiver for now, which only puts out 115W, but the sub is a 3 ohm sub, the fosgates a 4 ohm sub, bummer... if I were to build a large low tuned box for the fosgate off ~85 watts, should it be louder/lower than the stock 6.5" driver off of 115 watts? I will probably take the sub out from behind the tv and get a better idea, but Id say from just looking and shining a light down the port its only about .3 cubes net tuned somewhere in the high 40's.... could be way off though. I was thinking of something around 5+ tuned to around 18-20? not sure why so big, I just always see HT boxes are big...

only one video, I watched em all and they all suck, this is the best of the bunch and its still crap pretty much. the clicking is the f'd up power antenna

well, only got one door done, to get the wire to the door I had to undo the outer door trim and the inner window channel so that I could remove this plastic piece from inside the door and unplug the harness. pull the wire out of the door, remove door and the inner fender to disassemble this plastic thing and run the wire. I got the deck in and wired up and into the iso tray adapter deal but something was holding it up from going in easily and it was dark so I just left it til tomorrow. I listened to it cranked for a while and the voltage at the sub amp always stayed in the 13's, except for on a certain tone (that really wasnt audibly loud at all...) it would drop to 12.9 for a second. sub amp was still cool to the touch and the comps amp was just barely warm. I dont have the sub amp cranked though because I still need to figure out what tone is what on the cd I burnt. right now I have the HPF and LPF both at 80 on the deck. I had it at 63 for a while, and while the comps do alright with those notes, the subs do them much more justice. and with only 1 side of speakers working it is pretty loud/clean without the subs. I did set the xover to -3d for the tweets, and I like it much more than when I tested them the other day. heres a couple videos, they suck because its dark and not even the dome light was enough for the camera to see anything. some day they will come back apart and Ill sand/paint them because the vinyl didnt turn out like I wanted.

might wanna get rid of that little acronym before you catch a bunch of shit about it, they dont allow that term around here.

I think I remember now they had the "excursion" "high excursion" and "ultra excursion" 120/1200/1205.

I didnt check the manual, but I think I remember it just having 2 positive and 2 negative speaker posts. so just series up each sub for a 4 ohm load per sub, then wire each sub to its own - and + at the amp and the amp parallels them itself internally for a 2 ohm load. or you could just wire the subs series-parallel in the box and just run one length of speaker wire from the box to the amp and just choose what - and + to run because it doesnt matter either way.

about the fact of everyone using MDF instead of trupan, Id use the trupan if it wasnt for the fact MDF is at every home depot, lowes, and local lumber yard, and I have no clue where to get the trupan from. its only 60% the weight of MDF isnt it?

in my 95 I had, I had to build the box in the trunk to get ~3.5. I could have made it much wider and flatter coming much closer to the trunk lid but wanted to make good use of the space available. trunk was pretty damn big, but like you said the openings at either end are tiny.

Its always nice when you find someone who can come into a comparison with their product and someone elses, and they dont say. "Oh, our stuff for sure, its definately better"

you could do what ive seen a couple times, and run a blade around the box about 1/8 deep 3/4 in from the edges and cut a bunch of pieces and use some spray adhesive to tack them on(Im guessing it will adhere to leather), and then trim the leather just past the grooves and use a putty knife or something to tuck the edges into the grooves to hide them. Ive only seen it done with carpet but its gotta work with leather too.

yeah Id say there should be a noticable improvement. Lvl 4 vs RE SE + 700 watts vs 1400... if youre making the port tunable, how come your gonna have a 32 and a 36 option? why not a 34 for daily and a 45-50 or something for a comp? or is it just so you can choose which one you like better for daily and then never change it again?