ppiflat10s

ok, nevermind, some of their site works but their car audio section doesnt. but since the site partially works Im guessing it will be back online soon.

will do, probably get it done tomorrow since shes off work.

well now it works for me.

whens the last time anyones been on that site? I was on there about 3 days ago I think it was, and then all the sudden I could only go back in my browser to pages Id already seen. no new links would work for me. and now tonight I was gonna try and check some stuff out and again I cant get to the site. normally if a sites just down for maintenance they post something saying that as their home page while their doing their work, but I get nothing.

I tested it right at the battery terminals. Ill check it at both in the next couple days. is 4 gauge, Ill check to see if 5' is enough with what little I already have and Ill let you know if I want it, how much you want shipped to 86315

alright, Ill just use some sheet metal under the deadener. and no matter how much gain I could get from rear-firing, Im 99% set on forward firing so far. even if it could be louder, I am at HD alot getting crap for work (shop there later on after work and dont like driving the truck if I dont have to, its worse than the car, lol) and dont wanna put a bag of thin set, or saw blades, or cinder blocks, etc... in the back seat. I know the car isnt the nicest, but no reason to ruin the interior any more than it is. as for the expending foam in the door, Im only going to do it in a spot every couple inches, not solid all the way across the door. and I think the only reason the door would flex is because the initial torque of the window motor overcomes the strength of the door when it first starts to move. because I doubt the manuf. designed the door to flex just right as the window went up. and Im gonna go checkout the partsexpress carpet right now. tomorrow Im gonna go get my brushes so I can get the glass work going, I gotta get those pods for the mids going because Id rather listen to >80HZ more than <80HZ if I can only finish one setup or the other first. should get the big 3, seats mounted, and the beginnings of the pods done tomorrow.

damn, thats one clean install right there. is that the 03/07 accord, or the 08+

got the wiring ran, and the amps wired up. I downloaded a bunch of tones off ROE to set the gain, and figured since I wouldnt use that disc for anything else I downloaded them all, and all the sine sweeps and stuff as well. I only tested one out on my computer and it announced the frequency, so I figured they probably all did. I arranged them in order in the burn list as well but it changed the order as it burnt it... and they DONT all announce the freq. so I ended up setting the gains to a 20-60HZ sweep because thats one that announced itself and had a 50HZ tone in it. I figured it would be around 23 seconds in and set the gain so my voltage was where I want when the counter hit 23 sec. the amp for the comps, I set it using the same sweep but used the 60HZ at the end around 30 sec. I have the HPF on the deck at 80 though, so I need to get a higher tone to set that amp, right. I think Im gonna check the burn log and see what order it changed to so I can make a cheat sheet so I know what all the tones are. I turned the HPF all the way off and the mid didnt seem to do too bad, of course it was sitting free-air on the pass. floor so it didnt really have any impact when it hit. tweeter is LOUD though, but I played with the custom eq on the deck and dropped the last few settings, not sure what frequencies they were, but I made it roll off and it made it sound much better. Ill play with it more of course after I have them installed for good and aiming where they will be permanently. I ran into a problem with the seats though, there is plenty of clearance above the amps, but when you look in the pic of the bare floor and wiring, where I have the grounds running down the hump from the e brake bracket. I didnt pay attention to how close the seat rail was right there and the bolt holes are about 1/16 away from lining up because the seat cant get close enough any more. I think I just have to reroute it a tiny bit towards the back as it drops down and it should fit then. can barely tell theres an amp under there while I was working in there I heard a weird noise in the direction of the door, looked over and saw this.... then kept watching and eventually saw this... ....

dont quote me, but I dont think the break-in is for longevity like braking in an engine or something like that. the suspension softens up after a while of playing it and it can get louder after break-in. looking back at what I wrote, it seems as though is a suspension was VERY stiff when new and you were beating on it before it had softened up some, it could damage/tear something. Ive never heard of it happening, and dont think it does, but before you crank it too far, Id wait for someone else to chime in.

havent gotten to look under the hood since she hasnt gotten beck from work, but I was under the hood of my 93 accord earlier, and my alt to battery is the longest run (obviously) and it is about half the size of the battery-frame, block-frame wiring. I didnt end up with enough extra to do the big 3 on her car, but I will order myself some wiring after I finish my setup, and then finish up hers.

I didnt really notice it while uploading it and then when I saw it full size... WHAM first thing I saw too.

oh, and yes that finger is shorter than the rest. little run-in with the jointer back in high school.

the big brown truck left a few minutes ago. holy crap that 8 gauge speaker wire is fat, its mostly the insulation, but not sure how well its gonna hide under the carpet. its 10 gauge from each sub to the terminal on the box, and 8 from amp to box. Im sure I didnt need 8 gauge speaker wire for only ~800 watts, but next system Ill already be set on all wiring but the main 1/0 run.

well, she doesnt listen to it as loud as I do. at least she doesnt when shes controlling the volume and Im in the car. just got my wiring and termials from the UPS guy a second ago, so if I have any extra when I get done Ill run the big 3 in her car, just gotta get some more terminals.

I like that idea of the padlock inside the trunk. wish I would have done that a long time ago when I went on vacation... if you disable the factory lever, and install a solenoid to pop the trunk, make sure you got a backup situation to get into the trunk, because if the solenoid somehow fails or something breaks... oh crap!

I would try and get them to build the right box for free since they decided to go ahead on their own and change the box design you gave them without consulting you about it... then never go back there

Hey hey, watch it bud! I dont go around bashing your vehicle.... so if I was to get some 1/16" x 1/2" plate steel, and cut lengths to span the openings, how big of gaps could I leave and have the deadener still adhere and stick there for good? what about cutting some fiberglass mat, laying that on there with some resin and maybe another layer of resin to stiffen it up and then cover the entire skin with deadener? what mesh are you talking about exactly? I know theres expanded metal, but there isnt much surface area on a peice of that for the deadener to adhere to? and not sure how Id attach it to the door? and I am going to use expanding foam in between the door skeleton and outer skin, as well as anywhere else I think it will be beneficial. probably trunk lid, maybe open rear doors and do in there, and if I get ambitious enough, maybe drop the headliner and go between the skeleton and ribs up there also. another thing is, I was told by someone one here, that the setup I took out of the wifes car was too big and was choking the setup and not letting bass back into the cabin, and this box doesnt leave much area for the waves to get around. plus I dont want then to be vulnerable to stuff in the trunk because as the one pic shows, anything in the trunk is going to be RIGHT next to them basically. also, as a reference, my wifes car has 1 12 on 300 watts forward firing without being sealed from the trunk, and it isnt too bad. Id hope 3 times the power, almost triple the cone area, and a tighter fit would be even better. if I come across a way to mount the box right where it is very ridgidly, I might make some quick little fiberglass panels that will mount to the metal where the seat mounts and go right to the face of the box. if I sealed it off though, I would want to seal those holes where the rear speakers were, right?\ I got some terminals for the in-box wiring and some resin tonight, didnt get carpet because the box is gonna take 2 rolls, and it was 14 a roll at checkers, but the same stuff is 8.88 at walmart, but when the wife went by there for me after work, they didnt have black in stock, so Im just gonna wait on that to get back in stock. tomorrow I plan on getting the factory deck out, new one just sitting there (no dash kit yet), hopefully carpet laid back in, amps mounted, and seats back in(front anyways). also the box will get the inside radius glassed. is it true I should also ground the chassis of the deck? is the ground wire in the harness not sufficent or something?

I dont wanna hijack this thread, but it could help this OP too. if they went through with their original plans and put the 4 midbass in the rear deck, what should the cutoff be on the LPF to them to keep the soundstage sounding like its coming from in front of you?

about the type of battery, Ill have to look but its just a walmart special Im guessing, nothing special. but no, no dimming at all. Ive seen replacement alts rated at 80 amps, and seen some replacements rated at 105 but not claimed to be high output alts, so I dont know if the 105 is stock and the 80 is a cheap replacement, or maybe the V6 models had the 105. it doesnt have the big 3 done, I might end up with enough wiring left over from my setup to do it on her car, but didnt think it would be necessary, with stock alt and only 300 watts, is it really going to be beneficial? I guess theres only one way to find out. It might be in my head, but it seems like after I start the car, get down the road and crank the stereo its loud and then pretty soon it gets a little quieter and then stays steady. whatever the difference in power between 12.5 and 14.4 volts is, I shouldnt be able to hear it should I? just as a theoretical figure, 300W/14.4V=20.83A if somehow it drew the exact same amperage at 12.5 20.83A*12.5=260.375. Ive heard I wouldnt notice the difference between 2000 and 2500 watts, so how could I hear the difference in ~40 watts?

ok, well it looks like it is weighs just under 1/10 lb per sq ft. so just stack it 2.5" thick... lol j/k, Im guessing its the fact that the good stuff is so dense, probably works much different than 2.5" thick of lightweight foam.

did one of you assume he gave you outside dimensions usinng 3/4 material, and the other assumed he gave you inside dimensions?

ok, wifes car. RF 300.1 / REX12D4, got the amp set to push right around its 300 watts at 2 ohms. its wired up with 4 gauge. no other accessories like radar detectors or other amps or anything. the other night on the way home from going out to dinner I decided to keep the stereo cranked to as loud as it ever gets cranked to for the last ~10 minutes of the drive home. pulled into the driveway and left the lights on, stereo on, and the engine running. I busted out the DMM and it was basically staying at a steady 12.5 or so, then I killed the stereo and it took about 20-30 seconds and it was back around 14.3 and this is at idle. as long as the voltage is always over the ~12 volts the battery sits at regularly its not going to do any damage right? and its generally gonna be quite a bit higher than 12.5V when the systems cranked but the engines sitting at 2500-4k on the road, right?

the video of the voltage drop, does it drop like that when the car is running though? (probably not 14.xx to 11.xx though hopefully)

Doesnt make sense at all, if instead of doing 2x1, say dual 2ohms to help others who dont know what your talking about. Im pretty sure his 2x1 meant dual 1 ohms, and 2x2 meant dual 2 ohms. either way D1 wont be 1 ohm, and a D2 wont be 2 ohm in the end.

I was strictly talking about "looks" not that the "specs look similar"