ppiflat10s

until I read your sig I was thinking you had one of them in a box that big. the mean machines are rated RMS unlike the cheaper ones that are rated "maxx" right? so that amp really can put out 1500? how much are you giving those subs in that big box.

gracias.

calm down Jay, got a bit done today. spent most of the time cleaning the seats/door panels/carpet I tore out. while pulling out the rear seat notice the full drivers rear seat belt just lying there. wont retract- broken spring, so I gotta pick up one of those before it all goes back together. took a vid to get a sample of the stock setup to compare when Im finished. faded f/r and went l/r to hear them all separately, and they sound good once you see what they look like, cant believe they could still sound like that in their condition. also the power antenna is gonna need to be replaced, moves a foot and the rest of its "movement" is just a bunch of clicking. shes a sweet ride aint she! and of course, you cant roll without your foster imposter check these beaut's out, and they dont sound too bad for their condition. few pics before it starts got her stripped pretty good got the rear speakers out and the grilles back on the rear deck getting wires to the comps in the door is gonna be a real PITA. I think Im gonna take the doors off at the hinge and feed them through the factory harness.

alright, and just so am 100% sure I get what you mean, I include the lengths of the wide part plus the length of only one narrow part right? not main part plus left side narrow part plus right side narrow part.

I was always curious too, doesnt the sub usually move further at lower frequencies given the same power?

Im pretty sure Ive seen this before. wondering how the port length is calculated. say the port opening is 3.75x13, Id assume when it splits Id make each continuance of the port 1.875x13. do I measure the length of the first part before it splits, and add to it the length of the part after the split to get the overall length. do I calculate the length as if I were running 2 1.875x13 ports, or a single 3.75x13 port. with the box volume and tuning I was using, they were very similar, 29.6 for one and 28.92 for the other scenario, so either one would end up close enough, but Id like the know the correct way. if either of these are correct.

yeah, I had a aw1300HCX for a while, rated at 600x1@2 ohms, did get a little louder than the BP300.1 rated 300x1@2 ohms in the same exact install otherwise. and price wasnt too far apart if I remember right. the AW1200X and the Alum12Q were my favorite things Ive had from them. this was back in about 01/02 I think. tomorrow I got a few things to do early on and then Im going to clean it out and then start the tear down. still debating on some inexpensive dampner for the doors. was looking at 20 ft of edead 45 just for the doors for only $1/ft^2, comes out to 33 shipped. 25ft^2 bulk pack of fat mat extreme (50 mil) with roller and knife is 45 shipped. damplifier lite is a little more.... is the point to deaden the doors more to seal the door to make somewhat of an enclosure for the mid(while stopping vibration and rattling just a added benefit), or is it mainly to stop any possibility of rattling, or??? I am going to see what its like just dropping them into an unmodified door, but for those reading this who have done that, and then deadened the doors later, how noticable is the improvement? stronger midbass? ordered up my d block, 12 gauge speaker wire for the comps, 8 gauge from amp to box and 10 to wire the subs in the box, as well as a bunch of ring terminals to do the big 3.

doesnt sound good to me, when he thinks you dont know anything he tries selling you on cheap crap you dont need, then once he figures out you might know what your talking about he gets honest.

wont get the best results from them anyways because after searching for deadeners last night, dicided not to deaden the doors right away. I was thinking of getting a couple second skin SPL tiles per door to reinforce the outer door skin, but then pricing the damplifier lite ( was only buying it to seal the inner door skin to make the door somewhat of an enclosure because thats what I read to do) and then after shipping as well decided to just hold off and maybe do it later. gaurantee it will sound better than my stock setup, sounds so quiet, as well as SO crappy when you get it remotely loud

maybe he spelled it shyt out of courtesy or something(or he thought it might turn shit to **** and it would let shyt slide), not all forums let you swear like this one does. I know it lets most slide but it does edit MF'r, changes it to "p"ucker.

got some more stuff from the UPS guy today. Im sure noone here likes this stuff, but Ive owned amps/speakers/subs and have always been happy with their products myself, and I got these pretty cheap and couldnt pass them up.

also might not wanna mount the amp right to the box.

thats how I plan to do my 3 way if I ever do, just cross over my passive set a little higher maybe, and use the rear channels on my amp to power the midbass. that way you only have to run a 4 channel amp and not 6 channels. and less messing with crossovers.

alright, got some 12 gauge cheaper stuff (audiopipe) speaker wire for comps, and some KNU 10 guage to wire each sub to the box inside the box, and KNU 8 gauge twisted for the amp to the box.

heat wave? first time on their site so not sure how long its been on there, but over a month ago it was said to be 2 weeks out so I assumed it was over and heat wave was the name it received.

well, havent started the install, still waiting on the battery terminals, some ring terminals, d block, comps, some speaker wire, and of course gotta find an install sleeve and trim ring the douchebag didnt send me with the HU, got some lined p just waiting to see if the guy ever gets back to me. but heres some pics. I am also probably going to wait til I get some CLD tiles for the doors to install the comps, and the box is going to be somewhere around 3-3.5 cubes at 32-35. still gotta make a decision on that. but heres some pics of what Ive gotten so far. the odd sub is just a RF S212S4 to compare the size of it.

I know what you mean, I put a REX in the wifes car, and it does almost look cheap as hell from the back of the sub, but it actually sounds pretty damn good, and gets pretty loud for a sub I got for 65 bucks shipped. its pretty tough too, rated at 175 watts, and I set the gain by ear and then left while the wife listened to it daily for over 3 weeks, cam home and used a DMM playing music and I was giving it over 300 watts. (25-26 volts peak into 2 ohms, think I did the math right.)

lol, I knew that part. but thanks

alright, cool. I guess I should at least make sure it powers up tomorrow before I spend more, and I think Ill wait it out a day or two to see if he gets back to me. but if no reply from him and it does power on, Ill be hitting you up for some parts. I can send you back whatever I dont use also...

sleeves, trim rings, or both? were they from unknown pioneers, or just unknown HU's?

metal sleeve will probably work from lots of pioneers but im not sure, and have no idea about cross compatability with the trim ring, but its probably the same throughout the line. just opened the box with my deck inside it and it didnt have these items. and before I bid I asked this motherpucker if they were included, and he replied and said yes they were. BUT obviously they werent. I emailed him to see if he just forgot to ship them, but who the hell knows, and just in case I can get my hands on the parts cheap, Id like to keep the deck, if not and he doesnt have them I guess its time for another paypal dispute.....

just wondering if I am running 75 watts to a set of components, can I run speaker wire from the amp to the factory wiring or do I need to run wire all the way to the comps, not sure on the exact gauge, but its just whatever honda runs to their speakers, probably 18 ga at best? what size speaker wire do I need to run to them if I run the full length? 14?

"Im sorry sir, Im trying to see this from your perspective but I'm having a hard time getting my head that far up my ass"

my friend bought some alpine comps a while back, and since I dont live up there anymore I couldnt give him a hand installing them, he took them to a shop. I told him to do it himself and was giving him ideas of making them work (doesnt just fit right in w/o work) but he has too much money to do things himself I guess, anyways, his right mid cut out eventually and when he popped off his door panel to check it out, he then had to pop off the other doors panel to see if they had forgotten something, or if they just did it like that on both sides... THEY STUCK THE MAGNET TO THE OUTER DOOR SKIN TO MOUNT THE MIDS!!!!! my entire life I have paid to have 2 things done, and it was because I tried and couldnt do it myself. it sucks that you cant just trust that a "pro" will always do it right, but you cant.

I know it doesnt matter, just saying that you might not get as many "progress" pics as some people have been posting on their builds.