Everything posted by exxd
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H/O alternator size for an 18" BL
yes i have a mm, and i posted some new pics in my build pics... i set the gains to my amp using the mm
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H/O alternator size for an 18" BL
ok new pics are up in the build pics link in my sig.... i was mistaken it was a kinetik hc 1800 and not a 1400
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H/O alternator size for an 18" BL
i still have the yellow top, but i took it out and put a kinetik hc 1400 in its place... the yellow top is about 5+ years old but it still works good. the pic under the hood was not my car it was a reference pic of someone elses truck... im about to go take some pics of mine really quick.
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H/O alternator size for an 18" BL
lol nice Duran i think u should say want amp you will be runnin not sub lol well i think he just wanted to be an ass, cuz i did say its being ran off of a kicker 1200.1 amp with kinetik hc 1400 battery in the back
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H/O alternator size for an 18" BL
yes i have done the big 3 in 0 ga
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H/O alternator size for an 18" BL
well the reason im wanting to get one is because although it doesnt happen alot, on some songs my battery needle moves a shit load and occasionally my jvc kw-avx810 screen will turn itself off to save power to keep the music playing... like i said it doesnt happen often, just on some songs with alot of bass. so my thinking is that although my stock alt may be enough, its barely enough most times and sometimes not enough the rest of the time. edit: im also having a crazy problem that is really rare on occasion... sometimes the unit will turn itself off completely and the only way i can turn it back on is to cut the truck off, go under the hood and pull the radio 15a fuse and put it back in. only then can i turn the damn thing back on. and im not thinking that its the jvc unit, because before this unit i had a pioneer that did the same thing. so im not sure what to make of it
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H/O alternator size for an 18" BL
Hi guys I was wondering if any of you have any tips for buying a H/O alternator? Currently I'm thinking of purchasing an Iraggi 260 amp dominator series alternator for my '03 Chevy Tahoe to power my 18" BL. The BL is being ran off of a kicker 1200.1 with kinetik hc 1400. Will the 260 amp H/O alt be enough for my BL?
- BTL 18"
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2003 Tahoe
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materials used.jpg
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box paint liner.jpg
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box port.jpg
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kicker 1200.1 amp mounted under back seat.jpg
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woofer in box.jpg
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box + woofer inside cargo area.jpg
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kicker 1200.1.jpg
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18" fi bl side view.jpg
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18" fi bl top view.jpg
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box finished standing up.jpg
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box_side view.jpg
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box almost together.jpg
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box side up.jpg
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box side back.jpg
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4year old yellow top battery under back seat.jpg
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kicker 1200.1.jpg
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18" Fi BL: 9 cubes @ 32hz vs 7.7 cubes @ 35 hz?
yea im starting to think i shouldnt touch my box at all and that im just getting used to the bass and want more lol.... that ever happen to you? you quickly get used to it and think its not slapping anymore and then want MORE MORE MORE until you're deaf! currently im trying rear-firing the sub, when first installed it was up-firing in my 03' tahoe. i know most people say port back and sub up in suv's... but i built the box before i knew, so sub faces same direction as slot port. so im trying to see if i like it better up or rear ATM.
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18" Fi BL: 9 cubes @ 32hz vs 7.7 cubes @ 35 hz?
thanks man.... when i first mounted the woofer, i left about 5 inches from the edge incase i wanted to cut it down to the 7.7. but i was unsure if i would be losing or gaining anything. i think i will do that tomarrow. do you think corner angle braces would be needed? like these -> https://www.hardwareworld.com/Zinc-Corner-Brace-115bc-3-x-3--4-inches-pEC0UCY.aspx instead of cutting, add a board inside to change the volume, try some 2 x 4"s to lower the box volume that way your not cutting the box down then figuring out that its not what you wanted, then youd have to rebuild or put some really good bracing if you wanted to put the piece you cut off back on.... wow, i dont know why ive never thought of this, i will certainly add some more wood inside... but how should i go about it? just wood glue the pieces in? liquid nails? or screws?
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18" Fi BL: 9 cubes @ 32hz vs 7.7 cubes @ 35 hz?
thanks man.... when i first mounted the woofer, i left about 5 inches from the edge incase i wanted to cut it down to the 7.7. but i was unsure if i would be losing or gaining anything. i think i will do that tomarrow. do you think corner angle braces would be needed? like these -> https://www.hardwareworld.com/Zinc-Corner-Brace-115bc-3-x-3--4-inches-pEC0UCY.aspx
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18" Fi BL: 9 cubes @ 32hz vs 7.7 cubes @ 35 hz?
Currently I'm using the 9 cube @ 32hz after displacement feeding it about 1.1kw rms and it sounds pretty good but I was wondering would I gain anything from going with a smaller box (7.7 @ 35hz~). IE: would I feel the bass a bit more? would it bit any louder? The only real thing I know about having such a huge box tuned at 32hz is the lows it will pound, other than that I'm a noob when it comes to the dif sizes... Fi GURUS, once again I need your help!
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18" BL thermal question.
good shit, you really helped me out alot man..
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18" BL thermal question.
thank you KU40, can you comment on my other update about setting the gains with a dmm? 34.64v would be for 1200 watts, but that i reached that with the gain turned up to 25%, now the sub doesnt slap hard anymore.sub slaps hard with bass boost all the way down and gain @ 50%. but based on the dmm way, 50% gain with my radio turned up 3/4 playing 50hz test tone is way more than the recommended 34.64v. what would happen if i turned the gain to 100% and bass boost to 100%? wouldnt that be the full output of the amp(1200w)? im not understanding how 25% gain on a 1200w x 1 @ 1 ohm amp is = to 1200w.
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18" BL thermal question.
also here's another update: i was trying to set my gains using a dmm and come up with 34.64v = 1200w and i was using a 50hz test tone @ 0db with all my h/u levels set where i will be listening to it at and my volume up 3/4. i reached 34.64v with the gain turned up to about 25% and now my sub doesnt pound hard anymore. my old 15" t1 used to pound with 50% and 50% bass boost turned up, so when i upgraded to the 18" bl i left those levels the same thinking the bl should be able to handle anything that amp throws at it. am i wrong? if my amp is 1200w x 1 @ 1 ohm, shouldnt i be able to turn the gain + bass boost knobs both to 100% to reach the 1200w?
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18" BL thermal question.
ok new update... ever since i turned my bass boost down to 0 and gain up slightly from 30% to 50%, now my fuse breaker keeps popping itself. well it wasnt doing that last night, but this morning when i went to start my tahoe it hessitated to start like it didnt have juice. after it started i jumped on the high way and was playing music all the way up to where i listen to it and about 10 minutes later the bass would cut out for a few notes. that let me know the breaker popped and was running solely off my amp battery. so i pulled over and reset the breaker, jumped back on the highway and few minutes later it did it again. so i dont know whats going on, i also noticed that my cluster battery gauge was fluctuating from 13-14 even on the highway.... so im not sure if thats happening from anything i did by adjusting my amp or if its just a coinky dink and my batteries just need replacing or alt is going bad. big 3 is done in 1/0, and the rest of my wires to the back battery and to the amp are all 4 awg. breaker is 160 amp and amp is 1200.1 wired down to 1 ohm. anyone got any ideas?
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18" BL thermal question.
Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well. ok will do! thanks guys. edit: i heard setting gains with dmm was not an accurate method and that setting them with an o-scope was the only true way. here's a youtube clip of why you shouldnt set with a dmm. <---- Click the link. if you use a multimeter and use a 20 hz sweep while doing it. your ac voltage should peak at 20 hz which is right away. ive set my gain with a dmm using a 20 hz tone then set it using an oscope and the wave was clean the entire sweep, and i could actually turn the gain up a little. actually after thinking about it for a little bit that if you set with a dmm and you use the frequency that your subsonic filter is set to then it would be most accurate. thanks for clearing this up guys!
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18" BL thermal question.
Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well. ok will do! thanks guys. edit: i heard setting gains with dmm was not an accurate method and that setting them with an o-scope was the only true way. here's a youtube clip of why you shouldnt set with a dmm. <---- Click the link.
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18" BL thermal question.
turn the bass boost all the way down.. ok i went and checked the amp... x-over freq is set to its lowest setting 50 hz. bass boost some how turned itself all the way up to max 18db+ and gain was about 30%. i turned bass boost completely down to 0. and turned the gain up to 50%. do you think that is ok for now? until i can set it using an o-scope?
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18" BL thermal question.
ok today i was playing my woofer while driving for about 1 hr. after i got home and parked, i went to the rear and touched the dust cap of the woofer and it felt warm. i was wondering if this is normal and is there anything i should be worried about? my d2 18" bl is being ran on a kicker 1200.1 @ 1 ohm. head unit gains are set to 0 and amp gain is about 40% turned up and bass boost aswell. woofer is in a 9 cube ported box tuned to 32 hz.
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18" BL Just arrived!!!
Wow.. really dont see how people buy them for that high! well i originally bought a 15" fosgate p3 that came with a ported box and after a while i didnt like its performance, i so ultimate electronics allowed me to trade that in and pay the difference for a t1. so i paid like 250~ 2 diff times. check out my current build pics in my 2003 tahoe BUILD PICS
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12" fi bl
dont listen to your friend. the woofer is dual voice coils, so you can wire a dual 2 ohm woofer down to 1 ohm. the hifonics amp should be sufficient. get a dual 2 ohm sub when you order it. to wire an amp you need a power wire, ground wire, and remote wire, rca cable from headunit to amp, and speaker wire. but before anyone gets into the details of what goes where and how.... are you planning on upgrading your big 3 and/or adding a 2nd deep cycle battery?
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18" BL Just arrived!!!
ok guys, sorry for leaving you guys in suspense .... had to get my crappy cell phone pics up on twitpic. enjoy Enjoy the pics! edit: btw on the amp pics, thats 4 awg wire... my 1/0 awg arrives today, so that will keep me busy doing my big 3 first! edit2: fyi, this 18" fi bl is replacing my 15" fosgate t1 in a 2.5 cubic ft box. all i did was swap the woofers + boxes out with same setup and levels set on the amp/head unit. and now my ears are starting to hurt a little lol and sometimes i cant think straight with headunit crank up!!! this is a good sign. i am very pleased with the amount of money i spent and just wish i had known about these woofers before i spent the $499.99 a few years ago on that damn 15" fosgate t1.
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18" BL Just arrived!!!
My sub just arrived today. So I spent most of the afternoon installing this monster into the 9.3 cube @ 32hz box! I know I know, this box is ginormous itself... But oh does it sound good and pound hard! I had plans on listening to the woofer in the 9.3 cubes then maybe cutting box down to 7~ cubes.... But after listening to it for 20 minutes, I am very pleased with the product and with the huge azz box. Anyway I know this isnt much of a review, but more of some customer appreciation and satisfaction. If anyone has any questions regarding this woofer, feel free to ask!