hatrix

So I had an 18" SSD in my jeep and it was pretty darn loud. I recently took it out because of some water damage to its box and now I'm not driving the jeep anymore. Instead I'm driving a smaller ford focus. I'm highly doubting i could fit the SSD into the ford focus, so I was thinking maybe a pair of 12s. Compared to the SSD, how does the X sound ? I'm mainly talking SPL here, cause I'm sure the X still has great SQ. And i know, dependent on box etc, blah blah. I'm talking straight up though. Will it seem like a major downgrade in SPL ?

I just don't see this happening in your car. A box of recommended size will never fit.

ahh ok. Guess its the only thing i can do.

I have an old RF punch from sometime in the 90s. I tried googling about a recone but couldn't find anything. The surround is completely gone on the woofer. I don't remember the model number, I'll take some pics of it when I get home. But everything else about the sub is fine. It's a 10 inch and I had two of them in a custom box. The other one has a broken voice coil which I'm not worried about cause it's more work. I'm curious though if anyone knows where i can get a recone for the sub.

That is looking awesome

This truck looks pucking awesome.

RIP And that's horrible that the funeral is on your brithday I am truly sorry.

WHAT?? are you kidding me? lol the sub is THE thing that will get hurt by clipping. when you clip, the sub actually moves less and has a bit of a pause at each peak. so there is less air being forced through the voice coil and it overheats. just look at a sign wave, that wave is exactly what a speaker is doing. if there is a flat part, the speaker is holding at that point. The potential for damage is caused by the increased power being delivered to the driver by the amplifier, not because the subwoofer "stops" moving at the peaks. With a 30hz signal, the driver is still moving back and forth 30 times per second. Even if the driver "holds" at the peak of the signal, the heat dissipation would increase by about 1% (the average speaker wastes about 99% of it's input power as heat to begin with), then it would travel back in the opposite direction where it would be cooled again, then hold where it's heat dissipation increases by 1%, then it would travel back in the opposite direction and be cooled it. It would do this 30 times per second. That's still a significant amount of cooling going on and very minimal additional heat dissipation, to the point where it's inconsequential. The problem is power, not signal shape. And I believe his point is that clipping doesn't damage speakers, excessive power as a result of clipping is what becomes damaging. If the clipped signal isn't clipped severely enough to overdrive the speaker, or the average power level of the clipped signal is within the thermal and mechanical limits of the driver.......then nothing is going to be damaged. What you said. The signal itself isn't going to damage the speaker. SkittlesRgood, you can read up on clipping here: My link Read the whole thread and you will learn a thing or two about clipping. I know I did.

Put a vid up, I wanna see some excursion

I have a sunroof in my 89' cherokee, and I have never had any problems with it. I'm running one 18" SSD.

Why are you watching movies while driving ? Wtf.. 5.1 is not for cars. It's movie oriented for theater or home theater settings. It won't image right in a car.

I'm glad i read the whole thread. But I still don't understand all the hate towards Don. That was just ridiculous. SDS and SS look like the best solutions out there.

Haha, well thanks for the rough estimate.

I'll check it out. It doesn't even have a subsonic filter though lol.

I'm not even sure, I would have to check. It's pretty old though. I believe its from the 90's or so, as it was used on some Rockford Power 10's from the 90's.

That's so expensive....

Hahaha guess that does make sense. I'll hopefully be buying the amp soon. Can't wait for that, it's much needed

I'm curious as to what difference I should except to see switching amps. Currently I have some shitty old soundstream amp, MAYBE giving my SSD 18" 300w. I'm not even sure on that. I'm going to be switching it out for a SAE-1000d. What kind of output difference should I be expecting ? I'm sure overall sound quality will be better, as my current amp is garbage.... But will there be more SPL ? That's what I'm curious about.

Nice vid, sucks about the sub though :/

Gotta love that constant rumbling when watching the vid....

Hows recording quality ?

I need the pre amp for my condenser microphone..... to record....Thought this was pretty obvious.

I'm looking for a microphone pre amp, thats about it. That one just happened to have an EQ and compressor.

Crappy ? The pre amp is far from crappy. And if its so bad, then recommendations ? And why would i need a special cable ? Why can't any 1/4 to 1/8 work ? Both input and output are unbalanced.

I second this one. I've even found them online for around $200 as well. Very good sounding, clean system. It has impressed everyone who's listened to it, with a few people who have a hard time believing that it's only what it is. While the amp being built into the sub cabinet and the control box having limited cable length can be a problem when using it for HT, it's nearly impossible to buy a regular HTIB that can keep up with it. None of the HTIB's I've seen in Wal-mart, Sams, or Best-Buy with a price anywhere near this can touch it. Just my .02 I paid $250 for my Onkyo from newegg, and I'm certain it sounds better than that. Plus, it comes with an actual receiver, giving you way more options if you want to buy better speakers in the future.