PHATBOi

Silver one on the left.

Yeah, I got two from the guy on ebay. First one had a Zed stamped board but came with a loose cap on the board. I resoldered it and hooked it up. It green lighted, no protect, but had no output. Dude on ebay sent me another one and I sent him back the first. Second one wasn't a Zed board. Had it playing for a few weeks and it just smoked a fet today out of the blue. I will NEVER buy from that guy again. On the bright side I picked this up from my bro-in-law for $20 when the USX blew. Old school Japanese SQ FTMFW! Sounds cleaner and is louder than the USX anyways.

PAC LC-1: Clean Slate: US Acoustics USX2080 randomly let out the magic smoke while I was working on the box. Car off, stereo playing reasonably low, just a pop then smoke. Fuse was fine. Bro-in-law brings this out and says I can have for $20 if ir works. Old school Japanese SQ FTMFW!: It's playing. Only have 2 of the batts wired up till I get my 25ft of 1/0 and bag of terminals in. Not seein below 12.5 full tilt with just the 2. Sounds damn good and digs LOW. I can't bottom them out on Slow Death In A Hurse (Slowed) at full tilt. Can't wait till they break in!! Oh, and I only have the amps 2 inputs hooked up (barely had the 1/0 to reach them) till I get the wire in and can run the dual inputs.

Is it true only the first run was actually built by Zed and then after that they sent the design to Korea to be built? Also, it's only a true Zed if it has the silkscreen Zed logo on the board correct? Thanks.

Gotta love SSA, lol. No love for the budget equipment. If it doesn't cost an arm and a leg it can't possibly be any good. Here is a vid from the last Crescendo show with three of those "shitty subs" on the same amp I have: 3 500 rms "shitty subs" takin a Crunch GP3000D-PRO at .66 all day. I'm very happy with the trade.

Well, as usuall, pending bills have dictated that my budget be cut on this build. New euqipment list will include: Current: Kenwood KDC-X696 1- Audiopipe APMB6DC Mid per door 1- DB Drive P5TW 8D Tweet per door US Acoustics USX2080 on tweets @ 2 x 4 ohms (~80 rms x 2) Crunch GP3000D-PRO @ .66 ohms daily (~3K rms) with dual inputs 55ah Powerware batt Soon: Audiopipe AQX360.4 @ 2 x 8 ohms (~180 rms x 2) 3 VVME RD-10's 4.35^3 @ 31Hz (same box rebaffled for 3 10's) 3 more 55ah Powerwares 25 more feet Bullz 1/0 PAC LC-1 Traded the 2 Q motors for the 3 BNIB VVME RD-10's. Just not gonna have the cash to order the recones, baskets, pay to have them built, and get all the other stuff I need. So, I traded off for a drop in ready replacement. Just have to rebaffle my box which won't be hard as I still have left over wood from the original build.

ous Yes. First one arrived with a loose cap. Resoldered it and it still didn't work. Ebay seller sent a new one out with an RMA for the old. New one works great. Great seller..

Sick!

Figured the ohm load out, 2.66 per channel.

New USX2080:

How much was that battery in the back? I've heard people say you need to match your 2nd battery to your main battery if running them in parallel (which I think is what you are describing with the single run of 1/0 to the back). Not sure how true or accurate the matching bit is. It's a 55ah PowerWare. Get them from a place in Tampa called Square Deal Battery. They sell refurbs and B-Stock cheap with 3-6 month warranties. I've never had 1 issue with any battery bought from them. Got this one for $40 + $20 core charge I had to pay cause I didn't have a core to give. So $60. Have a Wlamart Maxx battery under the hood. I have always run my rear AGM's parallel with my front lead acid batteries and have never had an issue.

Thank you gentlement! It will definitely be a keeper! Had a Crescendo 3KWP last year I lost to the pawn shop during some rough times. This amp has replaced that one and healed the wound, lol. I won't be letting it go anytime soon.

Should be fine to use D1 coils in a D2 motor since the gap is wider correct? Picked up a GP3000D-PRO today and will be powering these at 1 ohm now. Thanks.

Skar products are very good and proven. The ZVX'x are beast subs. The owner, Kevin, made a few mistakes in his business practices when starting out at a young age and everyone sees fit to crucify him for it to this very day even though he runs a legit business now. You are going to get a very biased opinion asking that question on this forum. Most people have never even tried Skar products are are just quick to jump on the bashing bandwagon. I live 2 blocks from Skar HQ in Tampa, FL and have dealt personally with Kevin on quite a few occasions. All the Skar products I have used have been top knotch and my business dealing with Kevin have always gone smoothly. Take it for what you want, but this is MY experience. I wouldn't hesitate to run the ZVX's, especially with the crazy wait times happening at Fi right now. They are great products as well, don't get me wrong. I am actually having 2 old school double stack Q motors built for myself very soon. But, I chose to use PSI soft parts. First, because the price is lower. Second, because PSI lead time is 5-10 days. Fi is 2-3 months. The choice is yours, but don't just become apart of the hate crowd around here without even trying the product yourself as so many others have done.

Will be picking up a Zed made US Acoustics USX2080 soon that will eventually be pulling tweeter duty, but will run my whole front stage for now as I gave up my 4 channel in partial trade for the GP3K. Would love to find either a matching USX or GP 4 channel for my mids.

Thank you. Think this is the most excited I've ever been about a build!

Picked this up today from Steve at AmpMedics. Traded the previous owner my Skar Sk85.4 and paid Steve the $220 repair bill. Had a full ovehaul. Changed fets, drive board, and power supply! Having Robin at BHE build me a set of double stack Fi Q motors into 12's with PSI Soft parts next month to run on this bad boy. Can' wait! And my Q motors. (Yes I know one has cooling option and one don't. Both NDMstang65 and David from PSI have given the OK to run them as a pair.)

Well both NDMstang65 and David from PSI have given the go ahead to run the regular motor and the one with the cooling slots together. So it looks like thats what I'm gonna do.

Thanks. I only have the Big 3 in 4 gage, oversized Maxx battery from Walmart upfront, 1 run of 1/0 to the back, and a 55ah PowerWare. No dimming and I don't drop below 12.5 full tilt. I would suggest adding a second battery in the back before droppin the money on a H/O alt.

O I C, was always a little confused about that.

Well shit. Would a 1.4 coil fit?

Found a matching motor for the non loaded one. I will be selling the one with the cooling slots in order to purchase this one. It is one of the motors from a set of 18" Q's that SSA Brian The CEO had in his EK Hatch way back.

Thank you good sir.

A lot has changed since I last updated this thread. 86'd the Skar mids. They sounded great but just weren't loud enough for me. I am used to the pro audio midrange sound and the Skars are more of a midbass speaker. Got my Audiopipe APMB6DC's back in and have the mids and tweets wired together and bridged on the SK85.4 at 8 ohms x 2 (or whatever the imp is with a 4 ohm tweet wired in with an 8 ohm mid, probably 3 ohms?) Sounds great and gets plenty loud now. Will be gettin a US Acoustics USX2080 soon for the tweets. It has a 4.5K hpf so I can get them off the stock caps which has them crossed at 10 or 12K or something crazy like that. Sold the SK1500.1D. It was nice but I needed the xtra money and I'm just the type of person that prefers to get loud with the least amount of money spent on equipment. Grabbed a VVME INNO-D1500 (AP15001D clone) to throw on the VVME subs for now. In the process of aquiring some double stack Fi Q motors I wll be building into 12's to replace the VVME subs in my box and adding a second INNO-D1500 to strap to the pair at 2 ohms. Figure around 2.2-2.4K clean. VVME INNO-D1500 installed. Barely got a chance to set gains and filters before the ol' lady had to leave for work. Initial reaction: damn strong. Now I remember why I fucks with Audiopipe.