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Electrodynamic

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by Electrodynamic

  1. Haha, see, I'm not totally full of it. Steve saw a 15" a full stroke and just about pooped himself. It's really nuts when you see it in person.
  2. The video does it no justice. I think I need to increase the frequency and bring it up to / near full excursion with about 45 Hz or so. That might actually show up better. I'll try that the next time I get bored at the house.
  3. For the little bit that I had it going full excursion (about the equivalent of 2 seconds) it didn't damage anything. If I were to have left it like that for an hour or so it would have caused the coil to burn up, but nothing with the suspension would have been damaged b/c the coil never reaches the backplate due to the design.
  4. I got bored today, so I took a movie of me putting a Magnum through its paces. It's 20 Hz, and very cool.
  5. Well a midrange usually won't play down past 200 Hz or so very well, and especially below 100/90 Hz. A midrange does go up higher (into the 2-4k Hz range) also. A midbass doesn't extend into the upper frequency range as well as a midrange does. Most midbasses only last 'til 1k or so at best. Midbass's are best suited for 600 Hz or so on down. Midbass's usually also go down to 40-50 Hz without any problem. They are usually larger in size than midranges. Now, to get technical, there are dedicated midrange speakers which operate in a very narrow bandwidth and need to be crossed over at 200-400 Hz or so, but they extend into the upper frequency realm better than most "midranges". These are extremely rare in car audio - I honestly can't think of any besides 4" component speakers in 3 way systems. Most 5.25 and 6.5 "midranges" are actually called mid/woofers because they can play down into/below the 100 Hz area. Here is an example of a dedicated midrange: http://www.seas.no/seas_line/midrange/H422.PDF Here is an example of a mid/woofer or midbass driver: http://www.seas.no/seas_line/woofers/H1217.pdf Notice how steep the roll off is on the midrange and also how well it does in the upper frequencies? Also take note of the much more gradual roll offon the mid/woofer. However, most mid/woofers of that size don't exend that far in the upper frequencies at all...kind of a bad example, but you get the idea.
  6. Yep. That would explain the complete lack of bass - literally. Wire them up so that they both move outward at the same time. Doing that = instant bass.
  7. Exactly. I personally love the boxes, but they are insanely labor intensive.
  8. As Jacob will say, the 307's have better midrange, but the 302's have better midbass and were designed for off-axis listening only. If you have kick pannels, I suggest going the 307 route and adding midbass drivers in your doors if possible. The 307's don't have a total lack of midbass, it's just that they are a 5" driver, and it just can't displace the amount of air necessary to keep up with subwoofers. Midbass is there with the 307's, but it's not phenomenal. The 302's, on the other hand, blend better with big subwoofers because of their midbass abilities...largely due to the fact that it is a 7" driver vs. a 5" on the 307's. Harold, do you have your components in kicks or in the doors and can you add midbass drivers? If you are limited to a 5" driver and NEED midbass, then you have run into a serious wall. Without being able to add or upgrade to a larger driver for midbass duty you're pretty much screwed. Our 307's should have better midbass than the Focal's, but fidelity-wise I won't say one way or the other.
  9. Yep, the crossovers still come with the system. They pretty much have to. The crossover box option might cease to exist after a while. It simply takes us too long to make them. We're working on an alternative though.
  10. Yep, it was MSchmidt on here. I haven't seen him around recently, but he replaced his Focals (I think they were the Utoipa's) with 307's and hasn't looked back. Heck, he even bought a pair to put in his girlfriends car.
  11. Yep, what Clarke said. Very very good deal!
  12. We're entertaining the idea of releasing an 8" speaker. The speaker will be able to play up to 300 Hz minimum (probably higher), F3's in the mid 40's out of car (even lower in car), and vented around 27 Hz. The driver will feature a low inductance coil, very light moving mass, a stamped basket, and a competitive price. Xmax estimates are around 11 mm one-way. The 8's will be monsters in the car audio environment, sealed or ported. ~0.5 cubes sealed or 1.2 cubes ported tuned to 30 Hz. What do you think?
  13. You made the right move if you got their component set for anything lower than $300 or so. Their car components sound really nice, so you should be pleased with the purchase.
  14. I assume you're talking about the Morel car audio components, not the Morel 144 that is mentioned above. If not, the 5" 144 is not the speaker used in the car set. The 144 is a DIY speaker available through numerous outlets. However, they should still sound good.
  15. It probably dropped a solid 10 Hz down to the mid to low 20's after Hollis put that dust cap that weighs as much as a small child on it.
  16. Yes, it is a good midrange. Where did you see me post about it?
  17. Looking at a car that I'm going to buy next Sunday, which I will once again have to drive to ATL to pick up.
  18. Yep. Technically both baskets (the subs) displacement is the same - 0.07 cubic feet. Kinda hard to imagine when you look at one though, which is why we've said 0.1 cubes before.
  19. Same here. I was in ATL all day, and came back to no new posts.
  20. He's cheap and doesn't understand.
  21. For the greater good of humanity we swapped out a couple of those subs for a Blueprint 1202. The customer's ears aren't suffering anymore.
  22. Heheh...notice the ear plugs too? That picture was taken in a Chevy Suburban - now just imagine what is in it. It's a daily driver, but it still pounds.
  23. Lets just say that I was driving down the auto bahn and happened upon this.
  24. See, I'm not joking about the cup holder.

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