Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

SSA® Car Audio Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

SQLMonte

Members
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SQLMonte

  1. There you go splitting hairs again, haha. Maybe I didn't word it right, i'm definitely not running a 3 way setup, but I am running 3 way active since the signal for all the speakers in my setup are processed first then amplified and all can be tweaked via my deck. But enough with the semantics, an SSA Xcon is damn near $400!!!! Ouch! Not to mention the 1750rms rating...considering my amp can only put out 1470rms at it's best, I think I'll stick with the DD 2512. You seem kind of intent on steering me away from DD, any reason why? Since I want to do the sub/port forward, I think I need to stay with a 12" cause the maximum height my box can be is 16" so a 15" sub would be pushing it.
  2. It's not that DD is my only option, I have tons of options, all I'd need is some D4 subs, but I don't just want the final impedance I want a well built product that has a good warranty and is dependable and will not only handle the power I have to throw at it today but the power I upgrade to tomorrow (figuratively). It's funny you say DD is an expensive option because of all the 12" subs I'd consider getting from the store here, every single one of them is more expensive than what I've been quoted for the 2512, with exception of the SA-12's. The one's I'd consider are the SSA Icon's, SoundSplinter RL-p, and the SA-12's. There's no particular size box I want, that will be determined by how much power i'm running and what the subs need. However, I'd like to keep the box within the following specs: 35w x 16h x 20d. I listen to Rap, Heavy Metal, R&B, Soul, Funk, Disco, Alternative Rock. I'm running a 3 way active setup, subs/mids/highs, so there are no amp settings that would be in play here. The settings that pertain to my subs, xover point, slope, EQ, etc., have all been adjusted to get more top end but to no avail. As long as the new sub/box/increased power setup would be louder then it's mission accomplished. I might even just stay with the one sub if I notice it's louder, at least for the time being. As for the box, this will be my first custom box build and I sured picked a tough one to learn on...sub/port firing forward and sealed off from the trunk. But I have some very capable guys on my team who are gonna give me a hand so it shouldn't be all too bad. I might even try out DD's Compact High Efficiency box with the port loading off the side of the trunk to see how that sounds and to have something to fall back on should the sub/port forward idea not work out. That's what i'm gonna do, as stated in my first post, especially if running 2400+ rms wouldn't be feasible on stock electrical. That pretty much takes care of the AQ2200 idea....actually, I didn't know my amp was strapable so I'd have just gotten another AQ1200 and strapped them. I'll pass on the Fi stuff, I think a DD 2512 on 1200rms would blow my current setup out of the water too, but I guess time will tell. I haven't gotten worked up yet, just speaking my mind the same as you did. If you insist on clogging up my thread with worthless posts like the one I replied to then I'll continue to call you out on it, so don't take what I said as me attempting to tell where you can or can't go rather as me pointing out to you that it would be more appreciated and helpful if you answered the question(s) instead of posting that nonsense.Now you're splitting hairs......I understand that the subs aren't "seeing" the full 870 rms when you take into consideration the efficiency of the amp, gain setting, impedance rise, etc., as well as the fact that music is dynamic not static. But that's getting way deeper than necessary, IMO...my comments were based on rated power of the amp, not actual numbers measured...didn't think I'd need to explain that. My electrical is just fine for my system as it stands, I rarely drop below 14.4, staying between 14.6 and 15.0 for the most part.
  3. It falls off big time at around 44Hz and only gets worse from there. My subs suggested ported box size is anywhere from 1.5-2 cubes each. Something I didn't know at the time is that the size box you use/build should be determined, in part, by how much power you're going to run to your subs. The way I understand it is that, in general, if you're underpowering your subs then you want to go with a box on the bigger end of the scale, if you're giving them rated power then you want to go with a box that's about in the middle of the scale and if you're overpowering them then you should go with a box on the smaller end of the scale. That being said, and considering that i'm running my subs at nearly double their rated rms, I should have gone with a box that's about 1.5 cubes per sub.....my box is 2.0 cubes per, so it's too big. I'm not getting full power out of the amp because i'm running it at 2 ohms, it makes full power (as far as what it's maximum output rating is, which is 1470 watts) at 1 ohm. I can't wire these subs down to 1 ohm and even if I could it's not likely that they'd be able to handle triple their rated rms handling. So since my subs are rated at 250rms, and i'm running them at 2 ohms so the amp is putting out 870rms, that means each sub is getting 435rms....that's not almost twice their rated rms?Do you think I could get away with running a 160a H/O alt, or should I bite the bullet and go with something in the 250a range? Nobody woke me up and this ain't church so no need to preach. Besides, he had his facts wrong. If you can't come in here and answer some questions and help people out then you can stay out of my thread cause there's no need for your unhelpful and ignorant comments. That's all
  4. No, not yet. My stock alt is 105a. I have an SVR deep cycle battery under the hood and will definitely do the Big 3 It's not loud enough...I want it louder overall, not just be able to hit the highs better. The funny thing about my current setup is that it's what was recommended to me by ID directly! I'm not going to get rid of the subs until I settle on something that i'm good with so I'll have plenty of time to experiment and what not.
  5. I currently have a pair of ID12d2v3 subs in a Subzone ported box, 4 cubes, tuned to 30Hz with subs/port firing back and powered by an AQ1200D wired to 2 ohms (870 watts rms). This setup surprised me a few ways 1. The subs are rated at 250 rms, i'm giving them almost double that 2. Subs don't get stinky, never have 3. Never expected the output im getting from this setup, it hits way deeper and gets way louder than I expected it would. I do have some complaints though 1. The box is way too big, IMO. 2. While it bangs the lows pretty good, the higher bass notes are severely lacking 3. Not getting full power out of my amp That being said, and in light of the recent electrical issues I experienced (which have since been resolved) that resulted me in pulling out the system, I have decided that it's time to rebuild my substage. It was louder than I expected it to be but I want it even louder! I've decided to go with 2 2512's and an AQ2200D, does this sound like a good combo? The DD's are pretty expensive so i'm going to get one for now and run it off my AQ1200D @ 1 ohm (1200-1470 watts rms) until I can afford to get the other sub and amp. I'm going to install the sub in a custom built 1.75 cube box tuned to about 36Hz with the sub/port firing forward and sealed off from the trunk. Anybody think the new setup will be louder than my current one? I haven't metered my current setup so I have no idea what it does number wise but it's not bad for what it is. Anybody think I'll have a problem running 1200-1400 watts to the single sub now or the 2200-2400 watts to the pair in the furture?
  6. Hey guys, I currently have 2 Image Dynamic ID12's in a 4 cube ported box being pushed by an AQ1200D (870rms x 1 @ 2ohms) and my box is tuned to 30Hz. I want to "upgrade" and have something that's louder, still fairly accurate, can hit the higher bass notes (current box is severely lacking in that area, but hits the lows nicely) while still being able to bang the lows too, and has a smaller footprint. My car is a 04 Monte Carlo and currently the subs/port are rear firing, no speakers in my rear deck to allow more bass into the cabin. I'm open to all suggestions as for layout and what subs to use to accomplish my goals. My budget for sub(s) is $400 maximum! My only requirement is that whatever sub(s) are used are able to be wired to a 1ohm load so I can get the full power from my AQ1200D, which is rumored to be able to put out around 1500rms. Beyond that, i'm open to suggestions.
  7. If only the person was as good as the sub....
  8. Nothing special, check the sig
  9. The TomTom Club - TomTom Club - Genius of Love
  10. Keak da Sneak - Mixtape - Airplanes, Trains and Automobiles

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.