pat656

Is sundown actually that much better and how's the warranty on them?

I mean just cause i have had Rockford and liked it (a p300) and the local shop loved powerbass...but other brands are welcome and like $500

I have a FI BL12 fully loaded and need a new amp, and i was wondering which was better, the rockford t1500 or powerbass ASA 1500.1dx Patrick

what part of i dont want to argue about this do yall not understand, i got a really good deal on it and i needed something i could mount not stash away and the manual is for 2 amps, read the OP

120amp alternator best battery for the car (its a BMW hard to find the correct battery) I have the power and ground from the amp going to the cap and a ground to the chassis going to the cap and a power cable going from the battery to the cap. and i tired a second battery and it took up to much room, the cap is a lot easier for placement for my application and its a large one but like i said i dont want to argue about whether or not to use the cap but how to install it anyone on this forum use this cap before?

That's what I'm saying I know it's prob not wired right and I don't know how to wire It righ an need some help

I bought a 50 farad Stinger capacitor (dont make the whole cap vs battery argument thats not what im here for) and it came with instructions on how to install it using 2 amps, but i need the diagram to hook up 1 amp to it i need to figure out where i wire it up, it has 2 + and 2 - connectons and i cannot figure out which one is input and which is output i have correct grounds, atl, and wiring and it still dims with an fi bl12 and 1500 amp, please help me wire it up Patrick

width doesnt matter as much, but it is a tight space and height and depth matter

sorry about that, forgot to include that stuff i just have trouble with ported boxes. I want an up facing sub with a front port max height is 14" and max depth is 18"

I have a Fi Bl 12" which is fully loaded and i need to build another box for it. I think my first one is not the correct dimensions for this speaker. Are there any good tutorials or even someone with a box design. I want to make one with 33Hz Thanks a lot Patrick

nope made it myself, got the design from a friend who builds them a lot its better on mids to lows, but not 'high' bass notes

whats it tuned to? x2 and what is the measurement of the port? Is you sub a dual 2ohm wired like this: . oh and it is wired like that the port is a strange design and looks small (hard to explain) but sounds amazing with the right music

sorry i got busy with school and forgot to respond ill take pictures of the amp settings and some video tomorrow its weird bc its just like the sub isnt getting the right signal, b/c its not moving a lot (with certain music) and with others its hits EXTREMELY hard, like window shaking, yet it still seems like it should be louder (from some videos ive seen) anyways hopefully more info tomorrow

It's in a ported 20x20x15 box...upfiring with port on the front

So i took everyones advice and ordered an Fi BL12 instead of 15 and i put it in the other day now my question is why isnt it as loud and punchy as my old Rockford P1 12" (at like 150W RMS) I put a Fusion d3000 on it (which is 1500W RMS at 1 ohm) and tuned it (and then tuned it some more) and i cannot get this speaker to hit like my old ones On rap and stuff like that its decent, but on stuff like Disturbed and Slipknot its horrible and like its not even there I already checked the wiring and tuned it a lot and still cannot get it to hit hard and it has enough power bc i just installed a second battery whats wrong?

Here is a review I pulled off google : Price Paid: $200.00 from HH Greg Year / Model Reviewed: p3001 Summary: I like this amp.... ive ran about 3 different combos off of this amp.... at one point i had it pushing two 12 inch memphis DVC's and and audiobahn 15 and it banged.... right now i have it hooked up to a 12inch P3 rockford and it can the sub can barely handle it.... so i dont know if i just lucked out or what but the birth certificate on my amp rates it at 1137 watts and ive blown enough subs to think its true.... Strengths: lots of power.... tight hitting.... doesnt heat up.... Weaknesses: having trouble finding something other than a rockford T1 Power that i can use it to power Similar Products Used: MTX Memphis Audiobahn JL Seems that guys is pushing 1137watts! Thats definitly enough to dim lights.... I used to have a 3001 Punch that had a birthsheet of 680watts, so I'm thinking his is underrated as well. What OHM load are you running it at? That makes a big difference too, ive run mine at 1-ohm before and it pushed really well, but thats under what its rated since its 2-ohms officially. oh wow that would make sense then, i just hope i dont blow my 2 rockford punch P1 12" subs im running 2 ohm

i only run them at night (b/c they are bright) and when its foggy i went to the local Interstate battery warehouse (thats who makes my current car battery) and they checked it and the alt and stuff like that and they said everything was fine and the alt was putting out 14.2V they said its just gonna dim a little and not to be worried, and if anything add a second battery (and they were not saying that bc they sell batteries)

im going to have it checked out soon the HIDs dont really dim, its more the fog lights, and they are only 35W the amp is a mono 300W Rockford Fosgate (like the p300-1 i think)

yes the battery has been recently replaced, and on BMWs they are in the trunk, just to let you know (not trying to be a smartass) and i am working on the big 3 and yes most do, but we didnt get them with the car (they were $1200) i just added them aftermarket for $300

i just uploaded pics to bimmerforums if anyone wanted to see more pics http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1340782

i have a volt meter and a friend who is an electrical engineer, ill look at it tomorrow thanks for the help

ok thanks, now time to go shopping!!

that was my thought exactly, i mean the alt was 6 years old but the car was checked over by a professional car audio installer and it was fine and like i said it has 4ga wire to top it all off my friend has a 2000W system in his 3series (with same battery) and he has no dimming at all Getting your car checked by a supposedly professional car audio installer means nothing nowadays especially if it deals with electrical or voltage problems, take your car to someone who knows or specializes in electrical work (be smart about how you take care of your car especially if you want it to last long). How about you get a volt meter so you can watch your voltage (Im pretty sure there is more in your car than that if its dimming, what other car audio equipment do you have in there?). Buy a digital multi meter and test amp and battery, with car on and car off. I hope when your sitting idle, you turn your system down. Do you play your system with car off alot? this guy is the best in my area and highly recommended, and happens to be a family friend, and i get it checked by the guy who works on my car i will play around with the meter, since i dont have a built in volt meter in my car and i never play it with my car off, i have seen too many of my friend's batteries die because of that well its just the stock HU, speakers (replaced but still stock specs) and stock amp i do rum 55W HIDs, but this was happening before i added those i just added the subs, no other audio equipment

Ok couple of things: that fusion amp WILL NOT give you 3000 watts not even on its best of days. if it has 4x40 amp fuses. that 160amps. to figure out wattage out OHMS LAW-- voltage x amperage. let's figure a good voltage of 14.5 -- 14.5 x 160 amps= 2320 watts total. seeing how your probably won't get 14.5 volts constant. it wll be even lower. the run from the front battery to the back battery should be fused twice, one as close to the front battery and the second as close to the back battery as you can. second if you can get zero gauge into the amp.DO IT! Third. You have to do the big three in all zero gauge if possible Fourth. NO ISOLATOR!. in my experience they add resistance and they are not needed unless you plan on bumping while the car is off and you want to spare your starter battery and i wouldn't suggest that. ok thanks i know it wont run 3000W, i just said that so people know which one i am talking about i am working on the big three now the amp will barely hold 4 gauge wire, so do i need to run 1/0 to an adapter?

that was my thought exactly, i mean the alt was 6 years old but the car was checked over by a professional car audio installer and it was fine and like i said it has 4ga wire to top it all off my friend has a 2000W system in his 3series (with same battery) and he has no dimming at all