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I'll look into it. i think you confusing some of the info m5 gave you. mlv is an alternative to lead. do some reading at sounddeadenershowdown.com, great info lead or mlv acts as a barrier. cld tiles reduce vibration of panels polyfill wont do anything beneficial in the doors. polyfill + water = mold I asked him and he said both effects will be present. Why wouldn't lead stop vibrations of the panels? You are adding a lot of weight. I've read whole Don's site. I had no intentions to put polyfill in the doors. But in all other places where there are voids between two metals, as it will be hard to add lead there. Sound and temperature isolation is what I am looking from it. Got the idea from here: http://youtu.be/WemxDv4K57g?t=3m45s your call on the polyfill, not sure if i would go that far in my own car. so the lead would be glued to the panels? i understand that it would add mass to the panels but i would think 25% coverage with cdl tiles would be easier to install. It would add a lot of time to the whole process of deadening, but as stated above for now I am not dealing with any sound deadening brands.

That's good?

Not going to help. You will need time alignment for the midbass at minimum for proper imaging, assuming that's your goal with the SQ install. We localize midbass by time arrival difference between our two ears, you can't fix that with level adjustments. I'm not a fan of the idea of "full range" drivers used on the top-end of a 2way. There are advantages in how low the driver will play compared to a large format tweeter, but IMO the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages. IMO large format tweeter is a better option. I'll be looking for a processor, if I can't figure a way out with the carputer. What tweeters would you recommend? I don't have a set price range, but try to keep it reasonable.

Guess I'll do just that. I'm reading the 10's can go up to 3k so that would help in some way.

There is no way to place them on the doors without making some changes to the door panels. And I don't really see a point running them IB when I am going to be porting them. The sound would not quite match in the end.

That's actually nasty agreed, would be sexy if she was like 10-15 years younger.. LOL If her chin was a little higher way may see something that would explain a lot. An adams apple? Are you trying to say he's hiding something? I posted it for Teo's spank bank. LOL. I am NOT attracted to blonds what so ever. You think she could have shown any more deer toe? I did not find her attractive either. Repellent in fact.

i think you confusing some of the info m5 gave you. mlv is an alternative to lead. do some reading at sounddeadenershowdown.com, great info lead or mlv acts as a barrier. cld tiles reduce vibration of panels polyfill wont do anything beneficial in the doors. polyfill + water = mold I asked him and he said both effects will be present. Why wouldn't lead stop vibrations of the panels? You are adding a lot of weight. I've read whole Don's site. I had no intentions to put polyfill in the doors. But in all other places where there are voids between two metals, as it will be hard to add lead there. Sound and temperature isolation is what I am looking from it. Got the idea from here: http://youtu.be/WemxDv4K57g?t=3m45s

For now the only processing I'll have will be the HU. The carputer will be build for general purposes, but I have thought of using it as a sound processor too and I might go that route. For starters I can balance the left and right channel on the HU, so it sounds the same coming from both ways? What about a large format full-range crossed above the frequency that the midbass will have trouble with?

Can you add more than just that? Why would it fit my needs? Where should I mount them? Why them instead of a full-range or a tweeter? I like the 7th gen most, but I am loving this one too.

Vehicle: Toyota Celica 6th gen Passenger door inner panel, ignore the already existing stuff. 6.5" mounted in stock location. A-pillar Dash, in the future the will be a big ass screen for the carputer Left part of the vehicle front Would do my best to fabricate a 0.5 enclosure for the 10". If needed there will be metal cutting. The interior panel most likely won't be recognisable after that, probably some buttons relocations as well. Trunk area. There will be a 1.75 cub ft box for a 12, 32Hz tuning. Shoot from the passenger headrest Overall- the gauges on the left A-Pillar will be gone. Lots of cutting to come

Hello. I bought this car a few months back and the time has come for me to start with audio upgrades. I would like to focus this thread on the front stage. My goals: Two-way active setup. Clean sound. Ability to get decently loud inside the car, I have no interest in a parking lot party vehicle. Good, precise response in the listening frequency range. Installation locations: I have two 10" Sundown Neo Pro midbass drivers I am planning on installing, one per door. Around 0.5 cub ft ported, tuned to ~60Hz. I would like to retain my foot space, so for now kick panels are out of the picture. I have no problem with mounting speakers on the A pillars or on/under the dash. I have yet to decide what other drives I need and choose a mounting location for them. Aiming: I understand in the lower frequency range there is no need to "aim". So for the 10" in the doors I'll place them in a direction that will be most space efficient to make the enclosures in the doors. For the higher freq range I would like to go with on-axis. There is no particular reason for that(I just like it), so a change to that can be made. I don't give a fuck about the passengers, so everything will be aimed for the best experience at the drivers seat. Size restrictions: If there is space for it I can and will mount it, if bigger will mean better performance. One sacrifice I am not ready to make is adjusting myself to the system or in other word blocking my front shield view by a lot or leg room deficit. Fabrication skills: Woodwork, fiberglass, fabrication. I may not a pro in this regions, but I am willing to learn and spend countless hours to do it right. Equipment: For now I only have two 10" Neo Pro midbass. The front will be powered by a SAX100.4D active using it's 24dB slope crossovers. One speaker per channel. I would like to keep it as cheap/simple as possible. For now no processor will be used. The cheap Sony HU will be replaced with a carputer as the build progresses. For the bass I will soon have a SA-12 ported at 32Hz in the back. Sound deadening: Long story short I don't want to deal with sound deadening products for now. I was given the suggestion by a member here, M5, of using lead for adding weight to the panels in order to lower flex and noise levels. My goal here is to make the vehicle as quiet as possible-reduce road noise and block the music for the outer world. I would like opinions on the lead idea and tight polyfill stuffing in the voids of the inner interior skin. I have no intentions of selling the car so the polyfill and gluing(yes I am gluing the lead to the metal panels) is no problem for me. Thank you for your time and incoming advices on drivers selection and their suitable mounting locations for my goals. Pictures of the vehicle in a moment.

I turn 8000 days today.

Of the Lexus lady? ok

How long is the wire? Some people like to fuse it in case of an accident. If the wire get's cut from some metal and grounds to the chassis, the fuse would blow instead of shorting your batteries. Last thing you need is you KO in a burning car. If the wire is not too long it's up to you.

Fuses are there for safety reason. If there is any chance, even the slightest, of the wire getting damaged in some way thus resulting in a short to the chassis, you should ground. When the batteries are next to each other you don't and really can't fuse them as the wire is too short. But definitely fuse in between the front and the back. It does not cost a lot and it's safer for both your equipment and vehicle.

If you finger a virgin girl frequently is there a possibility she won't bleed the first time you have sex?

See if this helps with the small pictures: Are they small when you view them on your PC after you download them? Or the phone needs some settings changed to shoot in a bigger resolution?

Sweet, whatcha going to film? Most likely my demos and other car audio related stuff. I'll be making a glidecam and really want to get into videos of whatever is out there in the world. Awesome footage, nice music, nice editing.

Tempting to make myself a little birthday present: http://gopro.com/cameras/hd-hero2-motorsports-edition/

Try 4-5 inches, I know the distance will change the texture. Once the first coat is done, do a few more, otherwise if its too thin it'll be hard to remove in piece. Just did a heavier coat. Looked a bit smoother when i went out to check on the first. Thanks for the tip If the weather is cold you could dip the can into some warm water. But that's what I've seen people do with rattle can spray paints, not sure about this product.

I would spray my whole car matte white.

I would have stopped with this, but I just want to let you know I've no doubt in you or your products. There is nothing wrong with trying to save money. If you still don't want to deal with my situation, so be it.