deathcloud

Man I am in a tough spot. I want iraggi cuz it is a decent price online about 350 shipped. But I like the things I hear about DC power... hmmmmmm I wonder how much they would want. I don't even know if I need one though I am only running about 1500 watts. But it would be nice to have for future upgrades in bigger amps/subs I guess.

you can never play cod mw2 "too much" but i feel for ya. waiting for that xcon must have you going insane hahahahaa. I hope u get it soon.

Ah ok now that makes sense. My tweeters are in my a pillars and they are pointing at me. As best as I could angle them. Maybe I should try different placement of the tweeters. But soon I am going to run an active set up anyways so for now it sounds good to me. But later on when I get my active setup going I will try to do maybe my own FG kick pod down low and point it to me. Hopefully the seas like on axis and also the MLI65s like on axis as well. Im excited to do some testing and hear the difference.

Does this make sense? CDTAUDIO Premium Car Audio Sound Systems After reading this it sounds like your not supposed to put the tweeter in the a pillars. At all. I am still confused of on axis and off axis. ///M5 you say you have it almost totally OFF axis. Does that mean the tweeter is pointed backwards? Does it mean it is pointing to the celing? Sorry I tried searching for what on and off axis means and what it could do for you and came up with useless threads. It sounds like I would have to glass a kick pod into my door. or a kickpod down below and face the mid and tweet to the ceiling where the sunroof would be. I guess.....

Yea I guess I see what you are saying. I really don't mind at all. I barely have people in the backseats anyways. Usually just have a passenger most of the time so the front stage perfected is all I am worried about. Thats why I can't wait to get my active setup started. It then might sound amazing.

play call of duty on ps3. haha thats what gets my time to pass by. But man I can't wait for you to get it. I am still rockin out to my icon. And now I almost want to get a 15 inch xcon! I could easily sell it to my friends. Like 3 of them want my setup lol. They can't believe it is 1 12 inch icon.

Ok this is a continuation of another thread that was being hijacked. So I thought I would create it here. What? No way...... they ask u what drivers u have in the rear and u dont have any? Man thats hard to believe... but maybe thats cuz I am not properly sound deadened? I think that would make a huge difference. People usually say "hey are your rear speakers working?" cuz all the sound is coming from my front components. And there is nothing in the rear doors. I just want the people in the rear to hear as good as us in the front and I thought that wasn't possible without having some rear fill. But I dunno... If what you say is true, then I would be happy to not have anything in the rear doors lol. Saves me money. Saves me time.

Cool thanks for all the info guys. I am just excited to get started in the realm of running active. It is starting to make a lot more sense. And the only downside is I have to wire everything over. but that doesn't matter to me if it means better sound/output. also I am going to do what everyone else said and run the rears off of the deck and not get another amp for them. eff the people in the back seat hahaha.

do you think you have to put a battery in the trunk as well? what door speakers are you going to be running to keep up with it? What amp would you use? I am curious to see how your electrical system will hold up. I am planning on getting an optima yellow top and also a kinetik hc 1400 for the rear to make sure everything is recieving proper voltage.

It has something to do with cancellation. I think.... I listened and made my port on the same side as my woofer. And it sounds great.

that looks pretty good. I want to get into doing some glassing as well. A 3 way. 8inch mid, 6.5 midrange, and 1 inch tweeter. All glassed in my lower door pod. Would be SICK! Thx for giving me some hope that I can maybe pull it off someday haha.

you should sell your sax100.4 to me. And get the incriminator audio 6.4 4-channel. It has a small footprint and is powerful.

Yea when I was getting some stuff for my box build I was checking out the wire that they had at Lowes. And it is for home electrical lol. Probably not the most flexible stuff. So with that being said I deff need to do the big 3 and I plan on putting a battery in the trunk as well. probably a kinetik HC1400 in the back. But I plan on searching for a welding supply store first and see if they have some stuff around in my area. If not there is a high end car audio place that sells 0/1 awg but probably going to be a little more expensive. with my car on, it is at 14.6 but when the sub hits it drops to 12.8 to 12.4 hence why I am getting the light dimming. I will do the big 3 of course first because it is the cheapest route, then the battery in the trunk will come next.

Thanks ///M5 thats what I wanted to hear. I can't wait to try it out. I just hope I don't try it out and then say "fut now I need a new deck!" or something lol. But I am excited to see what it sounds like. My future plans are second skin all 4 doors, cabin, and trunk. get a kinetik HC1400 for the trunk then get mli65 and the 1" textile dome tweeter of the seas 27tff should be pretty good. audioman thanks for the heads up i will look into emailing him to get some.

oh and audioman21, since you have 2 sets of the MLI and they are saying only use 1 set of the MLIs, would you consider selling me 1 of the sets you have? I want to get a set of those. Let me know. Thanks

So after reading all of this I want to try doing the MLI65 and the seas 27tff. All this would be essentially done on a sax100.4 This looks like a good combo. Hopefully from my understanding I would set on the amp for the tweeters on the front channel hpf 2500 Then for the MLIs I would go to the rear channel and set the LPF at 2500 (put it at 250 and hit the x10 button) then on the deck go to rear and set the HPF at 60 hz Then for my sub of course LPF 60 hz Hopefully this makes sense and I am able to do it. I remember seeing ///M5 say you have to have external accesories or great headunit but I think it is possible with my headunit and sax 100.4 my deck is a kenwood excelon 592 Will this sound better than my phoenix gold components 6.5 I want to do active but have always been too scared to come to the dark side.

Yea well you are going to want to sound deaden everything in the car. To get the best sound. It is going to cost a little more but it is worth it. Maybe look into second skin damplifier pro. I am going to get 36 sq ft for 160. Thats what I am going to get and sound deaden everything. I can't wait to hear the difference.

I am really eager to hear your view on the xcon sub and how you like it. I was very impressed with the icon 12 inch sub. I am very excited to see how you like the xcon. Just make sure you put a lot of love into building the box and also sound deadening. After switching out my other 12 inch sub with the icon it shows me how badly I need sound deadening HOLY SHIT it pounds. I love it. I can't wait to see your review.

Ok so here is my plan as of now. 1. Go to weldingsupply.com and buy their 1/O Welding Cable UltraFlex Orange I will buy 25 ft so I can do both cars (mazda 3 and 1999 mustang GT) and get it for a good price. 25ft for only 70 bucks seems like a good deal. Then perform the big 3 upgrade on both cars. 2. I did some research and watched the car audio 101 for alternator and battery. for those of you who don't know it is some crazy good info. And I had to watch it 3 or 4 times for it to soak in and make sense. Now I know why you want your voltage to stay CONSTANT at 14.4 volts! haha. Anyways I had to go find my user manual for my mazda but found out that it has a 90 amp alternator. So with doing the math and breaking it down it goes a little something like this... saz-1000D + sax100.4 = around 1500 watts / .7 = 2142 watts Then 2142 / 13 volts = total amperage needed which is 165 amps Then we will subtract what my alternator produces in amps. So since I found out I have a 90 amp alternator we will assume that 40 percent of the alt is used for electrical accessories in the car leaving 60 percent of the alternators amperage for the aftermarket accessories. So 90 x .6 = 54 amps 165 amps - 54 amps = 111 amps Now this is without including my battery that is in the stock location in the front. So I have to figure out how many amps it is producing and subtract it from 111 amps and then see how many amps I still need and maybe get a battery in the back of the trunk. But it is looking like a Kinetik HC1800 fits the bill and will be able to help out on my electrical system and also help keeping my amps fed with enough power to have their full potential and less stress on my alternator. I totally get it now. It makes a lot of sense. It is way better to have your voltage at 14.4 without dropping because once it drops then there is an increase of amperage needed to get the maximum wattage. Example 1500 watts / 14.4 volts = 104 amps but if it drops to 13.4 1500 watts / 13.4 = 112 amps So you can see the increase of amps needed just to maintain maximum output of the 1500 watts. Hopefully this will help anyone else out there. Any criticism / more helpful tips needed. Am I in the right direction?

I dont have the mach1 system so i still don't know my alt rating. I will do the big 3, and also maybe change the car battery as it is 5 years old. Time for a new one. Thanks for all the help.

wait so you have done the big 3 and everything and it still dims? wtf? Thats not good. Maybe it means you need a better alt or something. Or maybe a battery in the back? I dunno.

I have the 12 inch icon and I was this close to getting the xcon. but holy shit the icon does above and beyond what I thought it was going to do. I can't believe the difference. It sounds sooooo good too. I can't wait for the beak in period to be over. I need to still do some tuning and adjustments to get everything on point. But yea I couldn't imagine a 15inch xcon. It would be too crazy for me!

Yea well maybe when I get paid ill do the big 3 upgrade. But I have to find out what amp my alt is in the 2005 mazda 3 and 1999 mustang gt so I can have an inline fuze holder of 5-10 percent higher than it. right? I think that is the hardest part about doing it lol. I can never find out what my alt is and where to find out that info at. But I really want to get it done in both cars so I can see what improvement it makes. 12 feet of 1/0 awg wire from knu is about 40 bucks. Then I still need an amp in-line fuse holder with the fuse. and new pos/neg bat terminals to house it. So its lookin to be about 75 bucks to do it. Around there.

Ok well I will save up for some 0/1 awg from knuconcepts cuz I heard that they have great wire and flexible too. Also need to save up for battery terminals as well. It kind of costs a lot to do the big 3 but I really want to get it done so I can see hopefully an improvement. But maybe a new battery will help some since it is only sitting at 12.3 volts which isn't right.

Ok so I got 2 major questions. Lets start off with the first one... So I have been doing some reading and trying to understand batteries, amp hours, CCAs, and such. And I am lost.... I even watched that youtube video someone posted explaining it and I just was overwelmed with all the math/info. So here is one question for ya. 1st vehicle is a 1999 mustang GT. It has 1 4awg positive run to the rear and split in a distro block to a jl 300/2 amp and a phoenix gold zx350 amp. Ground in the trunk is also 4 awg as well. The problem is the lights dim. But when I hooked up a DMM to the battery in the front it read 14.4 volts and would drop to 14.1 at the lowest with the sub hitting. Now the crazy thing is at idle it was reading 14.4 which I thought was wierd.... I thought maybe lower lol but thats cool I guess. No big 3 has been done but I am thinking either I need to do the big 3 upgrade to prevent the lights from dimming. Now here is the thing that made a light go off in my brain. When the car is off, it sits at 12.3 at the battery 12.1 sometimes. Does that mean it is time for a new battery? If so any recommendations? With all amps and their power ratings together add up to about 1000 watts. Do I need to have a new battery up front and have a rear battery in the trunk? Or is that overkill. What battery would you all think I need? And why? I guess I am in the market for a new one and I want to be happy with my choice and have no dimming and give my amps the best power they can get. I was thinking kenetic but I don't know which to get and they all say 12 volts. So I was confused by that. Now question 2 haha sorry for this I have a mazda 3 and I don't know the size alternator i have but I am guessing it is small. I also haven't done the big 3 yet but plan on doing it because I have a saz-1000D hooked up to an icon 12 inch sub. OMFG THIS THING HITS SO HARD. I will have a review of it in a bit. Anyways plan on getting a sax-100.4 as well. Now the question is I had a cap 1 farad that had a digital volt display on it but I have read in here caps are no bueno. So was thinking of doing a battery in the rear but again I have no idea which to get and what one will satisfy the needs of my amps. Or should I even get a battery in the rear? Please don't yell at me and tell me to research or use the search function I did and I just don't get it. Hopefully you can steer me in the right direction with maybe some links to read so I can get a better understanding. Thanks