ak11667

I would love to wall it but its so near death and the wire harness is so brittle the tiniest touch breaks a wire and you spend 3 hours fixing something that should be a 5 minute fix

I was having a good time with it, but then the boar went up in smoke and then 20minutes later my servers hard drive smoked too, today cost me just over 400dollars and 8tb of data

been a while since last update, i was just waiting on parts, but my pc fried the controller board, my fault for buying chinese, so i got a new one coming, but i managed to get this video in before it fried

so i live in the "wilderness" in socal and we get wind storms here my dad has this shitvan as we call it a 1993 plymouth voyager stick shift 1.2l very very near death, it chokes up oil and black smoke, but my dad keeps making me fix it up and nurse it along, well he parks it around back and we use it mainly use it for hauling shit (me and my whole family wants to see the car die) in the past 2 weeks we have had 2 wind storms and both knocked down 100Ft+ trees, the first one was about 2 weeks ago right next to the cars usual parking spot, missed it by like 2-3 feet we moved the car to another spot, and last night another 100Ft tree fell, this time bending the antenna and smashing a fence right next to it, this time it missed it by about 10ft i have pics of both times but the 2nd pic i was too late and the workers had already started to chop up the tree im just wondering if this is super lucky, or if someone is torturing me first tree 2nd tree, my thumb is blocking out the sun

i like them, no real complaints the midbass are Deep Rift bass 5.25's and the tweets are dayton

figured it out, damn tablet

lol thats actually me in the avatar, and i have also been told that when i was skinnier i looked like steve-o

ive actually been here since 2009, lurking and ive been competing since 07 i mainly run SS3-4 my last build was a atomic sled nicknamed the q it was 4 15's and 10kw, not some of my cleanest work but ive improved since then i was posting 155's right now my daily driver is a 03 civic lx no exterior mods, couple dings and dents (it was my 89 year old grandmas car) it does have a new engine in it, out of an 09 so i get 35-40mpg ( i blew the old one on a spontaneous vegas trip (long story)) it has 2 RE8's in it on a 80w amp, the 8's are in a T line box, i get people asking me how many 15's i have in it im a mechanical engineering/computer sciences guy i double majored in college ( i have a genius iq, just my spelling sucks because i have dyslexia) some of you have seen my "gearbox cnc" thread, yes i designed that, yes its still a work in progress, and yes i will be selling them when i am satisfied with the design (im a perfectionist with my designs) im also going to be applying for my own vendor section here within a few weeks to sell the cnc's and knockdown boxes and different milled parts anyways glad to be here

staining finished

i just thought id toss up a quick how to on how to stain wood for boxes all information contained in this how-to is provided as-is i am not responsible for your screwups step 1, supplies for this how to i will be using a few things a can of natural tint watco oil a can of redwood #502 weatherproof wood stain some paper towels (bounty) gloves (nitrile) a 1 inch chip brush and some disposable paper cups (14 oz) and our peice of wood that i am staining is a piece of light grain birch plywood step 2 mix the watco oil and stain together, i like to do a 1:1 mix of oil and stain, the watco oil is a penetrating oil and a varnish in one and the stain is just regular deck stain, pick out your favorite color make sure that you mix them thoroughly as they have different densities and like to separate, step 3 using the 1 inch chip brush and wearing the gloves apply the stain liberally to the wood making sure to watch out for drips and runs, also make sure that you get it into the corners step 4 you should wait about 10-15 seconds after applying the mixture then using the paper towel rub the stain into the wood taking care to rub only WITH the grain NOT against it wipe until you have an even finish over the entire surface, remember edges and cut pieces will be darker than surface areas you will know when to change the papertowel when it starts to be less effective in wiping up the excess stain step 5 repeat step 3 and 4 until desired tint of the wood is acheived extra step for a weathered and distressed look, after completing step 4, sand with 120 grit sand paper in select areas to remove some stain and then reapply, this will cause varying colors and tones giving the overall product a vintage look

no this was designed by me, and i had the parts cut out on a cnc at a local cabinet shop, this is an organic design, that im still improving upon and ive actually been a member since 2009, lurking, and i have been a competitor since 2007 in SS3-4 with db scores of around 155-158 using atomic APXX 18's and atomic 5k's

started staining it today

yea i looked into the shop bots, the main principle behind mine is low cost, accuracy, and ability to duplicate itself out the door i will be selling these when its all done and tested will be around 1800-2k per fully assembled unit and im picking up a darker oil tomorrow to see how that looks too

poll time, top left is oil and stain, bottom left is oil only top right is plain wood, bottom right is stain only what do you all think?

the motor controllers and the linear motion rails should be here by next Wednesday, i cant wait to be up and cutting

10ft of total X travel

its 10 turns per inch, and the chain sprockets are 2.25 inches per turn the chains are tensioned and the idler sprockets are also on "brakes" so that they dont freely rotate im looking at about 1/32 inch accuracy as it stands now, but im hoping to cut that in half with some new parts coming this week

its a single start 1/2 inch acme screw, and im using a special designed anti backlash nut, and the idler sprockets on both the x and y axis are not 100% free motion, they are tensioned to reduce backlash

test fitting the gantry onto the table Y and Z motors installed and chains and acme screw linked up Z axis motor and assembly x axis motor and drive shafts Y axis drive sprockets and chain router mount, i need to trim the acme screw down X axis idler chains X axis drive sprocket

building the table

partially assembled

so im building a CNC machine capable of cutting full sheets of MDF, wood, plexi etc.. my goal is to be able to produce these for sale most cnc's that cut 4x8 sheets cost upwards of 100k and the backyard ones that you see aren't that accurate (over 1/16th inch accuracy) and still cost 4-7000 dollars, my goal is to get them build for under 2500 so anyways onto the build pics thats the render of the final product another render y and z axis