ShagggDiesel

What exactly is considered "close to blown"?

The sony is not bridged, it's wired to one channel.

It looks like the only thing that happened was the glue came loose.. Is it possible to just glue it back together? Or is there a more detailed reason to why this caused it stop working?

Well I mean it's pretty obvious, but is it repairable? And what are the possible reasons that it happened

I have 2 15" MTX thunder 4500's running at 4 ohms off a memphis 1000 watt d class. I was riding around town today when I noticed a remarkable difference in output.. I checked the subs when I got home, to see that one had NO output at all.. I took the sub out to look at it, and the voice coil seems to be "seperated" or torn away from the spider.. Is this the reason that the sub stopped working, and is it repairable? It's not a major concern, I only had these subs as a temporary fix until I order my 15" Fi BL. It would still be nice to have both of these subs in working order though. Any thoughts? here's a link to a video of what happened.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwHBUcLlb-c

I didnt think about it like that , unless he was running the Powerbass subwoofer at 2 ohms instead of 8 ohms. It was wired to 2 ohms.

I've been trying to convince him.. And it's a wal mart dual 300 watt.. More garbage. I know

So my friend blew his 10" PowerBass sub in his pickup truck the other day.. He sent it off to be repaired, and wanted to get something cheap to replace it til it gets back. He goes and buys a 60$ Sony Xplode from wal-mart. He called me up and asked me if I would install his new sub.. not telling me it was a Xplod. So I get to his house and start laughing. But nonetheless, I put it in for him. After it was wired up, I had to see how it sounded.. The Xplod sounded 2x as good, and loud as the PB ever though about being. SMH. The PB was a DVC 4 ohm sub, and the Xplod is a SVC 4 ohm.. I just thought this was pretty humorous, since the local car audio dealer charged him 100$+ for that POS sub.

They are similar, but not the same. It's like a 1/2 inch difference if that.. But I found the problem anyway. One of the 2 coils was blown, so he was running off one coil, which when bridged and it still being wired in series, doesn't seem to work so well. He wanted me to "make it work", so I wired it to one channel, with the sub still wired in series. This of course over the course of a day, blew the other coil. Thus resulting in a dead sub. He sent it off to be repaired like an idiot. He wanted something to replace it til it gets back. So he went to wal-mart and bought a 10" Sony Xplod. I installed it while shaking my head and laughing. To my surprise, the Xplod sounds twice as good as the PB did. :|

so is it bad to burn a flac file to a audio CD? will that change the quality ? Burning to a CD shouldn't decrease the quality, unless it has to convert it in order to burn. I'm not sure if a standard CDR is compatible with .flac, but I've never tried so I could be wrong. But to answer your question, no it should not change the quality by burning it to a CD.

going big in size. going home in performance. FTL

First off, trying to "convert" a file that is good uncompresed quality, to a lower quality file type is a big no-no. All you're doing is compressing the S*** out of the file, which is doing you no good for SQ. You might as well go download an MP3. I am a recording engineer and own a recording studio. When I mix down a session, I usually bounce it to a raw WAV or AIFF file. The wav usually turns out around 40-75MB file, and is nearly uncompressed and sounds great quality wise. But as soon as an artist wants the file in MP3 format to upload to MySpace or something, the quality is instantly downgraded. If you can, find the original format of a file that you can support, and keep it at that. Do not try any converting or anything weird like that. Just find the best you can and stick with it. From what I see, your best bet would be to try and find WAV files, not mp4. Mp4 quality really isn't that much better than mp4.. just look at the file size. Pretty skimpy. Usually the bigger the file size, the less that the file has been compressed, thus better quality. But as stated above, no matter the format, if the original recording was s***, then the quality is going to be the same regardless. Just my .2

the only thing you need to worry about now is getting to english class. rofl x2

From what I see, going with a single 12" would be your best bet. If you're looking for quality and boom, a single 12" will do you best in a 2c^3 enclosure. With that bit of extra airspace, 1 12" will out-perform 2 12's choked up in that small of an eclosure, as well as a single 15" in that small of an eclosure. Quality over quantity. If you're going more for looks than performance, then by all means go for the 2 12's or a 15. It's all personal preference. Look at it like this: You have 20 people standing in a small sealed off room, as opposed to 5 people standing inside the same sized room..which one will it be easier for the people to breathe? Same way when it comes to subs.. they need to breathe. Putting too many in too small of an enclosure is taking that breathing room away, thus lowering the performace and quality of the subs. My .2: Go with the 1 12" and call it a day. But like I said. It's all personal preference. P.S. Port the box. A single 12 in a 2^3 ported box would sound nice for the type of music being played. Port tuned to 30-35hz

Well I'm pretty sure that it's a 4 ohm single coil sub.. I havn't taken the sub out of the box to look though. I think the dual 4 ohm version of this sub has a higher mounting depth that wouldn't fit in the enclosure he has it in.. but then again I could be wrong. I'll take a look at it today and see what it is, and if it's a dual 4 ohm then I'll take your advice and wire it in series, and bridge it on the amp.

Found the problem. The local car audio shop that installed his system had the sub bridged on the amp. I wired the sub to one channel and now it works fine..

I've checked all connections and it has a proper ground. I'm almost positive there's a problem with the amp

I have a friend running a 300w PowerBass amp to a 10" powerbass sub in his single cab Ford Ranger. He called me the other day and said he was driving around town "bumping" and his sub randomly quit working. This kid knows little to nothing about car audio, so he calls me with his problems. I went and looked at his amp and sub too see if I could figure anything out. The sub felt warm, and the amp was REALLY hot. When I played music through the system, at a very low volume, (vol 1-3), sound came out fine.. but when it got above that, the protect light came on on the amp, and would burp random thumps (not from the music) about every 3-5 seconds. With the key turned to "On", but with the engine off, I could get the volume to a higher level before it went into protect mode, but it still did. I told him to let the amp cool off for a little while and see if it started working again, for I figured that it just had overheated and needed to cool. He texted me this morning and said it's still doing the same thing. I'm guessing there's a capcitor in the amp thats fried or something.. anyone have any suggestions on what this could be, and what could be done? I know a good bit about car audio, but I'm not the best electrician. So any help would be greatly appreciated. -Shag

Going with either 2 12's or a 15. Thanks for being dicks about it guys! really helpful

Why can't I just cut a big hole in my roof and let it hang in there? Maybe just replace my steering wheel with the sub and free air it.. Talking about "In your face" bass!

Hey man if you can get me some pictures of that somehow, that would be great! I'd love to see what you guys did

Ok, now what about strands? I had bidded on some ebay cables that were 100% copper, but only had like 8-10 strands (thick), does the amount of threads make a difference? Or it's just a flexibility issue

What are some of the best brands/prices/websites when it comes to 1/0 gauge cables? I'm needing about 35 ft total of 1/0, what would be my best bet on getting a hold of this?

X2 . . . For the price, a 15" BL sounds NICE. Hit's those lows like nothing else, and SQ isn't bad at all with the BL series. Just make a good enclosure and you will NOT be disappointed. If you're just looking for pound.. You can look at the BTL series.. But the price may be a smidge over your budget. Don't get be wrong though, the BL's will give you a good shake. Also, I've never heard them personally, but the XCON series SSA subs seem to be one hell of a sub.

If Im reading this right then it makes no sense at all to me. Do you mean 4 gauge or 4/0awg big difference? Your amps terminals have nothing to do with the Big Three wiring. You dont need 1/0awg on that amp, 4 gauge will do fine. I would suggest you get 1 reducer and run 1/0 awg from battery to distrribution block then 4 gauge from the d. block to amps terminals if you insist on using 1/0 awg. There wont be that big of a difference though, if you plan on upgrading your system in the future then I can see the point upgrading your amp's wires. I do plan on upgrading soon, I'm just getting all of the electrical out of the way before I go any further on that.. So I needed the adapter so I can still use what I have until that happens P.S. Got the bat terminals and adapters at my local shop tis afternoon