Dammed

what's wrong with this one?

the build log is over 6 months old. The progress isn't that good. The work looks good, but it ain't going fast. Can't wait to see some new pictures and video when it's installed. I'm going for Mechanical engineer myself.

Hey Nick, yeah I saw the mail. No problem, good to know that it's not a defect of some sorts. And thanks for the fast repIy. I'm going to try a 20hz tuning at first, in WinISD it looked like it would be a really good flat response. The port will be a variable, so I can change it at any time from 20 to 40hz with 2,5hz intervals.

Hehe, o yeah can't wait to install them. It will be amazing, and I'll be posting a build thread when it gets a bit warmer or I get a garage to work in.

yeah they are gorgeous. Man I love the look. Ok, man I'm relieved now, didn't want to send them back... But both of them have the BP installed, shuldn't they both have some black residue on them? And should I clean it, or should I just leave the magnets as it is?

I recieved my two Q's today and man they are big! Just love to look at them, and since they are so good looking some pictures had to be taken. and then a attempt on art: But when I was fooling around with them, I noticed some black stuff on one of the magnets, is this something to worry about or? the other one looks like this:

could you upload them and post a link here for downloads? Would be fun to have on my laptop.

thx for the info, my stereo will be used as a daily and not a SPL setup. I will play DB drag a couple of times in a year, but my goal is not to have highest possible DB, but a reliable battery setup that will last at least 3 years. I found this picture on a thread, any good info here or is it BS?

Yeah the NSB90's are great batteries, I have to call and check the price with some dealers becuase I haven't found one store that has the price displayed on their web page. That's why they aren't in one setup. But if the Deka group buy is still possible then I will buy Dekas, $350 + shipping for 3 x 9A31 and one 9A78DT would be awesome.

man your father is just like mine. Thank god I have convinced him that I know generally more about cars then he does. Ask your father to read this thread, and show him examples of people having HO alternators and old batteries (bought new by the same owner). Or you can just do what the fudge you want and ignore him, I did that once. Wow what a fight we had... But in the long run, he understood what I did and that we both were correct. He's always correct you know... good luck mate.

it's new batteries, but it looks like it ended 2 weeks ago. link: Deka 9A31 group buy $85 per - 502StreetScene edit: Anybody know about active group buys for batteries?

this is my kinetik hc1800 after about 10 min of resting: I'll have to check what it reads after 45 min resting in a couple of days. mm, I found a group buy for the Deka 9a31, it has ended but I'll try and see if it's possible to get 3 of those. Price was only $85 per battery.... Man what a great price.

after how long time after you stopped charging?

Ahh ok, do you have like a temp feeler mounted on the alternator or do you just stop pushing the amplifiers after certain amount of time? yeah I know it's pointless information if you view it from a practical point of view, that's why i wrote: "This happens in a fracture of a second."

My Kinetik HC1800 rests at 13,1V, but ok. What difference will 12,8V be in comparison to a 13,2V when there are other variables like different Ah and CA rating?

hmm, I think you misunderstood me mate. I meant that front battery will charge the rear in only a fraction of the second, before the alt/alts notice the current draw from the rear. After that the alternator will increase it's current supply. Current and voltage ain't the same thing, so the volt should be able to stay stable with a little variation as long as the current drawn from the amplifiers is lower then the current supply from the alternator. How do you let it cool down, you stop pushing the amplifiers right?

yeah I read that thread as well. I think that Ah has no big meaning in burps except one. When you use more power then your alternator can deliver then your batteries have to stand for the power. So if my assumption is correct, then if you're batteries has a larger Ah rating then they will be able to hold their voltage better then the batteries with a lower Ah rating. In burps where you consume all of the power that the alternator/alternators can deliver then you will be able to get more power with batteries with a high Ah rating becuase the batteries will be keeping a higher voltage. So if this is correct, then a low ESR rating is almost as important as a high Ah rating. Cause low ESR rating (among other things) give you a higher resting voltage. But a higher resting voltage means nothing if the battery/batteries loose their power quickly, here comes the AH rating. Am I getting this whole thing wrong or am I on to something? Optima seems to give you really little for the money compared to other brands. AH/$ and cranking Amps/$ is really low with Optima batteries. I'm really thinking about the Dekas, I have to just check someone that has compared them to other brands in burps.

I haven't found the price for the 1750. But the cheapest online price for the 1700 was $200, but why should I go for the 1750? there isn't a big difference between the 1750 and 1500, the short circuit draw is much bigger on the 1750, but is this really a valuable spec for car stereo? Thx for the links mate, lot of good stuff to read on those forum. Yeah I was heading towards the Dekas myself, 355Ah reserve is really good. And if I have understood it correctly, the bigger the reserve thus longer can the battery hold a high voltage when the car is off. The question that comes up then, is how high is the Dekas resting voltage and how do they compare to Odyssey / Stinger batteries in burps? And what about NSB batteries? I haven't found any site that lists pricing for them, only *call for price*.

I didn't say it can't start the car, it's a 36Ah battery which is about half of what my car normally have. A racing car and a daily driver is not the same thing. The race car doesn't have heated seats, AC, heat threads(?) in the back window, etc etc. A normal daily car puts the battery under pretty much abuse.

mm have heard that one before. My father says normally, why do you do this, can't you hear the music, doesn't your factory speakers work?.... Sorry I didn't notice you had a HO alternator... To be honest you should get one, since a HO alternator cannot fully charge your batteries. I have a 180A (biggest that fits my car) alternator and I bought myself a Ctek XS 25000, it can handle batteries up to 500Ah and it charges with a 25A current, it's a really good charger. Np mate, good choice, a electrical system is the foundation of a car stereo. Nobody likes a foundation with cracks in it.

Can't wait to finish school and to buy a AMcar. God I love V8's, first one was a 318(?) that was after installed in a Dodge B300, man it's nothing like sitting in the front seat and work on the engine.

i dont believe for one second you went that fast in an evo lol, 170mph is about 275km/t. Here's a M5 E34 (1989–1995) that does 290 km/t / 180mph: Here's a evo doing 265 km/t / 165 mph: and here's a evo doing 270 km/t / 168 mph: That's original evos, if you tuned them a little bit they go easily above 300 km/t / 186 mph:

Tell your father this, if he's a mechanical engineer he should feel a little bit embarrassed by stating that question. No hard feelings. I'm also studying to be one actually. When your bass starts hitting really hard the amplifiers in the back will take power from the battery in the back, the alternator does not see this at the moment. Your front battery starts to charge the battery in the back becuase the battery in the back has a lower voltage since it's discharged. The alternator sees this and starts charging the front battery. This happens in a fracture of a second. Since the cables on the front battery are contacted to the top, the electricity can flow around the front battery, in a way it will almost bypass the front battery and it will charge the battery in the back. Meaning after the first discharge of the back battery, the alternator will charge it almost directly. You can compare electricity to water. The batteries are buckets and the wires are pipes, the alternator is a pump. When you take out some water in the back "bucket" the water pressure gets lower here, the front "bucket" will then send some water back in an atempt to equalize the water pressure, the pump will then notice the loss in water pressure and starts pumping more water into the system. This is really simplified, but in a way it's how it works. And no you will not destroy your front battery, but you will over time (very long time) damage it if it's a normal OEM battery, becuase those can't handle the abuse of the car stereo. That's why I recommend you to buy a Shuriken front battery since this is meant for daily car stereo abuse. edit: And if he does not believe the "punk ass teen" on the forum, ask him to ask a car electrician. They will probably say this: Your car stereo system will use more power then the alternator can replace, this may damage the alternator over time becuase it runs at 100% almost all the time, but your alternator will not damage your front battery. This is a fact, that's why people buy HO alternators so that the alternator can charge the batteries back up. For you the cheapest way to solve this is to buy a good INTELLIGENT battery charger that can charge AGM batteries, and then you plug the charger in to charge your batteries when your car is off. Maybe you don't need to do this, but it is advised.

Yeah I thought about that to. But what about the resting voltage, isn't it pretty low on batteries like that? In the setups above, the most expensive battery is the XS Power 2700 at $299, so no $400/700 batteries here. No I'm not a show guy, but I will try to make the stereo look really good. The batteries will be under the enclosure, I was thinking about making a big plexi window to show them, but if they are ugly then I'll just skip the window. Hmm, I was expecting more replies then one. Nobody has some advice regarding this?

If you have very little money, buy the smallest one. if you have a ok amount of money, buy a battery with the same ore more AH rating as the starting battery you are using now. if you want the best, buy the biggest battery you have room for under the hood.