Cinnabun187

120 amp alternator and SAZ3000D

BUMP

I have start on a new box now. My new box is going to be 7.08 cuft. 39" width 16" height 24" Depth. Minus the port area, displacements, and bracing I should still be a little over 6 cuft. I'm using WinISD to calculate my port this time around. It's telling my length is 17.71(5" width by 14.5" height). So I'm asking if I should cut a board that length and call it a day? Bump (sorry if I'm bumping too much I just want to get this box made by this weekend)

Rum bum bum bum bump...... Well okay what is this Effective Length VS Physical Length? I've been reading this JL Audio article over and over.

My port is in the middle of box. Do I still need do end correction factor? BUMP

OK cool I only order the cooling not the flatwind I was looking at the coils and was wondering why they look odd

I looked at the voice coil on one and there were markings. What does FC FW mean? Plus how will I know if it has the cooling option I ordered?

Oh OK I'm slowly understanding this now I'm just trying to keep my screw ups to a bare minimum

Do I really have to make an L shape port to get the tune I want?

i don't understand is that me adding on to the box? Because i already have everything precut all i have to do is assemble cut holes and tunes port.

........oh k

My enclosure specs are 36 wide 18 tall and 30 deep. According to the12volt.com this should be a lil over 9ft³. I want a 33 Hz tuned port I'm still undicided between 4 by 16.5inch port with a 11 inch length or 5 by 16.5 inch with 14 inch length. I'm more in question about the lengths. Are they accurate?

Where could I find this titebond? Would it be in Home Depot?

What wood glue iis best to use and caulking should it be hard or more elastic like for sealing?

i'm using 12volt for my enclosure are their calculations accurate?