Adrian_D

They look nice with black spokes !

DO IT!!! Sat over and thought about the extra expense with insurance and tax each year. Not worth it at this point

Tempted to buy an old E-class diesel as a back-up car. Something about owning an old german barge is appealing.

I began to love Linux once I started the job. Pretty much a big learning curve but it's awesome because of the capabilities.

Make sure no other variables change... the gains are nonsensical unless you are chasing readings on a meter. X2 All the gains from small stuff combined are not worth a lot of effort. If you really want gains, build a box to use only for SPL, now that's something worth investing time on. And external conditions can have a huge influence and testing in different days might give you different results. One one car I've built the scores were the highest after sitting overnight.

Yeah. Just like the SMD distorsion detector, which helps with the score

I hope that clears it up. Never had problems with air leaks but it wasn't a big box and power was very small.

Looks like overexcursion... I've seen similar things on a BTL I got back from somebody. The idiot ripped the tinsels and also damaged the surround in a similar way, although next to the cone seam. He loved to play sine waves under 20Hz, just to see the speaker move.... Here we go, I know for sure this is a result of overexcursion, since my BTL sees way more power but only at the tuning frequency.

Looks like overexcursion... I've seen similar things on a BTL I got back from somebody. The idiot ripped the tinsels and also damaged the surround in a similar way, although next to the cone seam. He loved to play sine waves under 20Hz, just to see the speaker move....

One older method I've seen was to have a double back, one panel fits over the box, the other fits between the panels. That had good results. I'll take a picture if it's not very clear. You can also use weatherstripping at the joints.

One older method I've seen was to have a double back, one panel fits over the box, the other fits between the panels. That had good results. I'll take a picture if it's not very clear. You can also use weatherstripping at the joints.

Happy Birthday ! ! !

The hardest part I've found is to get a meter. Once you have it and you can keep the box in your car, you can test whenever you have the time. I agree with removable port and removable back for a change in volume. For the port you could also use a round port, have it as far back in the enclosure as possible and just add length on the outside when you need to lower the tuning.

I have a large halogen spotlight I'd like to change out to LED. The battery only lasts 20 minutes when new and I'm sick of buying new batteries. Damn thing takes forever to charge as well. I've seen somebody who used a 30w LED instead of a 150W halogen work light with very good results

Run-off the mill Korean board. 1500w is identical to a Hifonics I worked on, I'll have to look for pics.

What's in the pic can do 128.0dB all sealed up on the termlab. Decent output I'd say.

Fiberglass it somewhere. This is how mine is installed, never bothered me once: I do agree with the center console idea. The front subs that tick me off are those in the passenger side footwell. What SUV is it ?

The LED light was awesome today as a work light outside Tied it to a pole and hooray, we have light to keep working.

It rocks ! You want it ?

An Cherokee isn't a large SUV but I'm happy with a single 10" sub, in a sealed box, running on 350w, glassed in the left side cubby hole. Depending on musical taste it may or may not be enough. For me it has plenty of output. Sure, it won't rattle eyeballs but it plays music the way it's meant to be played. With correct tuning you don't even know I have a sub. Personally I'm not a fan of front subs. Most SQ snobs do it to high-pass the midbass higher and get get the sub to do some midbass duty and get rid of door rattles from incorrect door treatments. If you are looking at PE, check out Dayton's HO subs and the Hi-Vi SP10

Found it and it turns out I have been reading about it on caco yesterday, looking for gut pics

X2 ! And let's see some gut pics before commenting. Sure, the heat sinks look familiar. Looking at build-house brochures you see a TON of familiar heat sinks but that's another story. Anyway, I'm curious to see some gut pics before I say anything more

What about deleting double posts ?

link to missing topic ?

For ease of tuning, I would definitely stick with ported. And given you have a trunk car, build everything facing forward (port and sub) and seal off the trunk for best results.