Adrian_D

really? is it a cleaner sound or something? Much better dynamics due to the headroom

Very informative post...thank you I would love to read less wise-ass comments and better grammar... To me the interior looks damn nice for an A/B amp. Cheap deal. I almost bought one from this forum. Look in the classifieds section. Kappa456 (IIRC) was selling one. 50x2 @ 4 ohms as far as I can remember. And stable down to 0.5ohms stereo.

I have played with an amp similar to it (internally). As far as I could measure, it's somewhere around 1800w @ 1 ohm. Good amp IMO.

Matt, that would be really nice but given the circumstances I have the chance of picking up a pair of Focal K2 Power 165KF's for rather cheap and local. How do those compare to the Seas line-up...if there is someone that tested both

The guy I went to the show with has a 13w6v2 sealed..on a vrx1.500...we measured it on the TL, for shits and giggles..139.5.... As far as sound goes...I can now safely say w6v2 >>> w7 Heard both 13's in the same install. I swear, if I had room, I'd jump on a 12w6v2 or a 13w6v2 in a heartbeat.

13 hours of sleep from 6AM on Friday to this moment...

Fit and finish wasn't absolutely perfect though, especially on the A-pillars.

Hmmm, what are the ods of reconing them ? Methinks about turning the Volvo to Wallvo... If Mark has the parts, or if there is another build house closer to you, would be worth it if you are wanting to go that direction. I need to ask Mark about parts since there is only one buildhouse close to me but they're not somebody I'd give my money to...

Listened to 3 cars with Brax Graphic 6.1's... To me the mid didn't seem lively at all. Really liked the tweeter though.

Listened to the car that won 3rd place in EMMA SQ European finals a couple years ago. Absolutely awesome machine Clarion HX-D2, Scan tweeters (full-size ones), Scan 12m mids, Peerles Exclusive 8 midbass, JL 10w6v2, Audison VRX amps.... Also listened to almost all the cars which compete in sq over here. I'm quite pleased of the education I received this weekend.

Hmmm, what are the ods of reconing them ? Methinks about turning the Volvo to Wallvo...

They can market any power they want. It's a whole diffrent story if the numbers are true or not

X2 on that

I would use small batches and try to cut the pieces of mat before mixing the resin and hardener. Also, it will help the curing process if you lay 2-3-4 layers at one time. Be careful not to add too much hardener with multiple layers as there's a risk of too much heat. My brushes lasted generally for quite a few batches of resin....

double post ?

Thanks for all the comments guys Seems like I will follow your advices and change the mids at first (I will most likely buy the Peerles full-ranges at the same time, to save on shipping). The question is : P18, CA18 or maybe ER18 ? Even something else but without sacrificing midbass I really like my CA18's but in the house it's a diffrent story since they are 100% on-axis

That could be an option A bit more costly than the full-ranges. I even thought about trying to angle the driver's side mid towards me to help a bit... Which Seas were you running? I'm running the Seas Lotus Reference off-axis and they sound absolutely phenomenal. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1466 I can't complain about the tweeters. Better midrange is what I'm looking for

Top

My Seas's on axis were too much for me Most likely I'll buy a pair of those full-ranges to try them out. Even if I don't like them it's a smaller investment than a pair of FF85K's In your opinion, how low could the peerles full-ranges be crossed ? Madisond graph shows a drop below 200hz so I guess around 300~400hz ?

Yep, all body parts are reproduced, but as always, they will need fitment work Fitment work should be easier than fixing rusted panels ?

I plan on buying a '69 Think you can give me a hand with finding one in decent condition ? I can try, but you're either going to find a decent deal on a rust bucket that needs a ton of work or pay out the ass for a car in good condition For now I'm mostly thinking about how much will one that needs work will cost me so I can start saving up (easier to save money if I have a certain goal) The 69 is on the top of the list of what i'd like. 67-68 are in a close second. Are those easier to find and / or cheaper ? Not looking for those special series and engine codes. I don't care about getting matching numbers. Something with a small engine since, along the lines of yours They made the most '69s, but they will be the most expensive, as Sean said. It's getting fairly rare to find an original 6-cylinder car, they all have V8s in them by now. For some reason I thought the 6-cylinder is cheaper / easier to find.