Adrian_D

Damnit. I can't get a binary tree search to work right I mean it works ok, finds the value, but returns the wrong pointer

Details ? trying to make something semi-intricate and the shit just crumbles Doesn't sound too cool. What are you trying to make ?

7 PM fucker. You over-slept !

Your whole electrical system runs at over 14.5V now ?

You will first use up the batteries and then dip into the alternator. Also, I believe those programs do not take into account the fact that you have 5 batteries in the rear of the car Not sure how they came up with a 1 volt diffrence in the example you posted... A "better safe than sorry" option would be to do 2 runs of 3/0, if you can find enough to suit your needs Do you plan on competing ?

Considering 1/0 is rated for about 300A, I would use the 3/0 from front to rear and use 1/0 for the rear... I don't see any point in going with 3 runs of wire from front to rear because you only have one 300A alt and a single battery. Even if you do run the stinger and the knu 1/0, the stinger will not pull more current. It will be able to cunduct more current, which is a whole diffrent thing. From my knowledge, fusing in the front is done to protect the actual wire in case something happens along the run and it touches the car. So, basically, you fuse at the amount of current the wire is rated at. You will also need fuses in the back, for the same measure of precaution. For protecting your amps in case something happens, you would need to fuse each amp before its terminals and this is the place where you need to take into consideration the consumption of each amp. (If something blows in the amp, you can get to the situation where the power supply of the amp blows and it's going to act similar to a short-circuit on the positive and negative wires. The faster you stop supplying current, the less damage will be done) Considering you are not using more current than the wiring is rated for and you have perfect connections, in every point of the system you will see the same voltage. Take a look here for some more details on the wires and their load capacities : http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Details ?

I agree 40.1

30 L for port and subwoofer displacement is a bit too small. Considering the space you have, I would go with a single 15. I managed to fit a single ported GZNW 12 in 130L net. And it was a tight squeeze. Sounds good. Also, 2 12's sounds equally good and you will have more cone area

$36 a piece and Shipping included in price (within North America) For how they perform, I think it's a very good price. People would want sales even if the item is for free

top and out

10AM here...time for breakfest and then I have to start the computer programming homework marathon

Fun Fun Fun

It turned out saweeet

Stain them ?

Looking at that piece I'm seriously contemplating buying a good tone arm and diy'ing the rest.

Now this looks nice : Pro-ject rpm 1...$250

Now you tell me I'm guilty of not beeing aware of the good audio gear in Europe

Oh my... Details ? It's a VPI HW-19jr, upgraded armboard, counterweight, record clamp, dustcover and manual included though they're not in that pic. Absolutely no marks on it, just looks dusty with the light. I'd be a little scared of shipping it that distance, though... Shipping would probably be too risky

Oh my... Details ?

booo

'grats

To keep the same tone... NP : Metallica - One

I think the tuning is a bit too low for a car... But I'm a fan of sealed in cars