Adrian_D

Sweet

Happy Birthday ! ! !

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period. Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12. If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!! here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8 I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure. Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though. Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win. You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important. For my application (diesel) it's just going to be there to cool the intake, so i assume a single or dual stage system shoul be good

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period. Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12. If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!! here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8 I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure. Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though. Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win. You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important. For my application (diesel) it's just going to be there to cool the intake, so i assume a single or dual stage system shoul be good

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative 10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period. Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load. On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12. If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!! here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8 I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure. Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though.

Unless it's very modded, very , he is full of shit. Agreed, 700 lbs of torque does not equate to a lot of power. What are they rated stock? 300-350hp?

The trip to buy the ski-gear was fun. Icy road, 10 minutes into the trip on steep slope with sharp turns the Jeep just powerslides along with barely any throttle input, gotta love torque

A tad rich is on the safe and cool side.

Does the flywheel have any strong indents / holes?

Happy Birthday ! ! !

Come on, SNOW. I can't wait to test my ski gear Still need to buy goggles, helmet and gloves.

Congrats

Congrats!

Black requires extra work to keep it clean. Pretty funny to get the Jeep out and see it's dusty from sitting in the garage over the week

My mechanical keyboard from ~15 years ago still works. Spacebar has a dip in it, a lot of the keys are very shiny from use. Curious how much I can keep it running. At one point I greased up channels in which the keys slide

Sounds good... I will keep you appraised of the situation. :-) Hellz yeah. A month in advance of an exact date is perfect, plane tickets to Rome are cheap.

Sounds good...

We will be in Rome for the wedding it sounds like.Would you be down for intersecting our trips and having a beer in Rome ? Of course Cool, what timeframe are you looking at?

Hoorah, now back to work, spammers are out in full force

Thanks Cody, not sure I deserve it. Nonsense Congrats

We will be in Rome for the wedding it sounds like. Would you be down for intersecting our trips and having a beer in Rome ?

So much to do in Paris? Hmmm, might have to bump it up the list

Greece, Italy and Austria are my next destinations. 2 skiing trips in Austria this winter. Greece probably vacation and Italy just for a visit. IMO London wasn't too interesting, I love seeing architecture from the Renaissance so for me Italy is going to be perfect. Barcelona is also an awesome city, definitely worth visiting.

Awesomesauce Hmmm, I want to visit Italy, would be cool to intersect the trips for a couple of hours.

Still works here. I just banned a spammer