Adrian_D

After this breakage I went and bought a helmet. No more riding in the woods without a helmet. I started wearing one when I snapped my first frame. Yeah, my weekend could have ended a lot worse had I not payed attention to all creaks, groans and moans. First thing after I got home was to go get a helmet.

After this breakage I went and bought a helmet. No more riding in the woods without a helmet.

Now that you mention it, the only thing I'd need extra is a boost gauge, so once I put all the details on paper and get the go-ahead we will do the deal

Canti brakes, regular mtb spacing. I couldn't find anything worthwhile used since I need it 1" threaded and a 220 mm steerer tube. The Dimension and Kona forks where the only ones good and I needed to thread them. Plus they are worth more than what I payed for the bike. I found a fork locally which seems like it's Cromoly, just as much thread as needed, not 2/3rds of the steerer tube threaded, slightly thicker tube walls. So it's fixed, for now. I'll probably spring for a new frame in 1-2 years

I've been looking at Orange P7's and Voodoo Bizango's for shits and giggles today

I know you didn't say I did it. But I did tighten the quill pretty good My fork looks exactly like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dimension-26-Mountain-Fork-1-Threadless-260mm-Black-/130693801231?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6df5250f I found a new fork local, for very cheap, going to run it until I can justify the Dimension fork. I believe cutting threads only as much as needed will help strength. The new fork has shorter threads compared to the old one.

Best turbo timers in my opinion use an exhaust gas temperature sensor. But I see no reason for that not to work. Come off the high-way, use engine braking and your EGT's will drop crazy fast.

http://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTNONEINCH.html I wonder how good are Kona forks... I'd only need to take it to a machine stop and have it threaded. And for the sake of strength, I will thread exactly as much as needed, not like the broken steerer, threaded almost completely.

Raise the headset too far? Pull the stem up too much and tightening the shit out of it to compensate causes both exta moisture and stress on the parts. The combo probably killed your fork tube. I did tighten the stem pretty hard but it failed well below the stem. It had barely any rust. I can't be sure or anything before I got it since it's a used, 20 year old bike. New fork and that's that. And I will start looking for a suspension fork and change the steerer tube. I'm really trying to figure out what caused it so I can avoid a future failure.

Raise the headset too far?

A suspension fork with 1" threaded steerer is very hard to find unfortunately. Bigger tires, yes, they are in plan. Today's trip was on sandy tracks, perfectly nice track, minimal bumps. Maybe my new brakes are what put the nail in the coffin. I remember that the bike always had a little "give" when forcing it forward with the front brakes applied. And it wasn't the headset at fault. The steerer tube probably cracked at the previous owner and it let go completely today. It did so right when I used the brakes heavily.

do not do that! if you mig weld it the weld will be strong but the material around it will be weaker. I would tig weld it. sleeve the inside of the tube leave an 1/8 th. inch gap and TIG weld it. that way the material around it won't be subject to so much heat and be weekend. Keep in mind it's steel and I only have a MIG. An apples to oranges comparison, but I welded hydraulic rams on the backhoe and they have taken quite a bit of abuse.

Curious if I should just MIG weld the tube where it broke.

I'm starting to get pissed, even though I shouldn't, since the tube could have broke at a much worse moment and all of the sudden instead of giving me a warning. It was half-way through the trip and I had a 10 mile descent through the woods ahead of me.

If you mean rigid, yes. The steerer tube broke clean, almost halfway between the headset bearings.

I could sleeve it inside and do some rosette welds but I think I'm going to create weak spots.

Fork broke today. It let go progressively going down a hill so I knew something was going to happen. At the bottom of the hill the fork tube broke completely. I have no idea what caused it. My new brakes? Fatigue from over the years? Previous impact? Good thing I noticed something was off and it didn't break on me doing 20 going downhill. Just when I thought I'm done with parts for the bike.

Next major plan with the SPL meter is to build a prototype board with solid, good wiring, so I can eliminate all possible exterior interferences.

Ghetto-fabulous!

And I finally am 90% sure the laziness of the SPL meter to get a result in some cases is caused by some sort of funky interference with my jerry-rigged wiring.

I've jerry rigged my intercooler monitor absolutely horrible I really need to take pics. Cat5e cable going from under the hood, through the door with the sensor info and the microcontroller + lcd are stuffed inside an old DMM case, so that I have battery power. I didn't have time to buy parts for a voltage regulator and this thing doesn't work on 14.4v.

Actually, way to go for you.I think you'd scream if my "little" bike came out your ass Might take 2 courtesy flushes? At least: That is before the mon chasseral wheelset Not very fair comparing cheap-arse wheel sets and a bike not built to be light but cheap

My steel roadbike (67cm) is under 20lbs and from the 80's. It's a road bike, not a mountain bike

I weighed the bike today, 30.8 lbs. It's marginally lighter that most of my co-worker's aluminum bikes

Funny stuff, a customer asked me if I remember his install, heck, I can remember parts of the conversation I had with him 4 years ago... And today I couldn't remember where I put my stainless fasteners