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Vapor Trails Stupid motherfucking board software thinks it's so god damn smart to remove the embed video icon, and automatically do it for you, but it fucking fails with Yotube's new short url shit.

Were his speakers in the front shitty?

No way he is putting THAT in THERE "He use to do that to me."

According to Ohm's law I = V / R where I is current (amperes), V is volts, and R is resistance (ohm), we can derive Power (watts) = voltage * current. As impedance (ohm) increases, current (amperage) lowers, so you end up with less power (watts). Now you should be thinking: "But hey, my speakers are wired to 1ohm, so impedance isn't changing." The voicecoil(s) in speakers are coils, and they have a nominal resistance measured in DC (this will be the Re value in the T/S specs of the driver), but this resistance changes when it's in an AC circuit. The reason it's not referred to resistance in an AC circuit is because it does change as it's actually a function or ratio in relation to the voltage and current. As the voice coil heats up, impedance increases, and less current can "flow." So you could play a constant sine wave, and in the first two seconds measure 100watts, but in ten seconds, only 70watts. Also, as frequency changes, impedance changes, and sound is composed of tons of different overlapping frequencies. The speaker enclosure will also effect impedance in conjunction with frequency. You may have seen graphs or models of impedance vs frequency for a specific speaker or enclosure design, they are never flat lines, nor are they exactly linear either. So unless your playing constant sine waves all day, the impedance in the circuit for the amp's output is constantly changing, and thus the power output is constantly changing. Don't fret about matching amp power ratings to speakers' RMS values. Just another thought to consider: You need to double power in order to increase loudness by 3dB, and that would be with an 100% efficient speaker, and depending on the frequency, 3dB isn't much of a change to the ear--if any. ---- I'm sure someone else can better explain, or correct any flaws above, but hopefully you get the jist of it.

Yeah. They worst part about 22 is they are the most "pimpable*. Ammo is cheep though. The truth is I will either get the .338 and just know its under utalized and be happy, or just buy something way less costly to shoot and when I get the rare chance to go shoot far I just won't or will borrow someone else's. 6.5 is a cool option but if I ever want to shoot big game it isn't enough that I would feel good shooting it. Deciding to hunt, and hit paper with one rifle is a hard hard choice. How far do you plan on shooting for paper? And would like for hunting? I know originally I said I only wanted to shoot a few hundred yards, but after doing some measuring and what not, my goal is eventually 1000y. Course that's paper only.

Get a 22 for the time being. Hehe

What do you have anyway? Any idea what you'll be putting under it? I have an SN-3 3.2-22x58 ERGO with EREK knob, 35mm tube, sunshade with ARD, 1/10 mil clicks and the reticle is a custom gen ii mil dot. It has green illumination. From US optics. US rings for it too. Don't look up the price...... I want a a magnum caliber, but I also want to shoot frequently. So its either buy 2 rifles and have it all or compromise. I've seen the models alike on us optics site, and the prices. That 338 lapua would be nice.

It's going to be phat yo!

What do you have anyway? Any idea what you'll be putting under it?

It's common in the firearm realm among others, but not sure how the price compares to powder-coating, especially if your going to paint the whole sled.

You may have your drivers and amp wired that way, but your drivers will rarely, if ever, see 750watts each. Modeling for vent mach using 750watts will put you on the safer side of this, because in reality you'll have less power, less air displacement, and thus less vent mach. As suggested above. If you would like to know why your speakers won't be seeing 750watts very often then I, or others can explain, otherwise I'll save myself the typing.

Matte white and matte black / reg black would look cool. If I didn't scrub through so many damn bushes, trees, and cactus then I'd try it on on the dirt bike.

How often do you crash into trees and branches? If a crash is rubbing into them, then EVERY ride. If its falling off the sled because I walloped something then not yet. I was just fucking with ya, but I'd be worried the first branch to rub would scrap it right off. That's why I asked. Might not care in some regard though if it comes off as easy as it seems as it's more a try out the white... Then in that case I would definitely try it. Just make sure to do a few layers.

I believe it has a help section. If not, search the forum / Google.

How often do you crash into trees and branches? If a crash is rubbing into them, then EVERY ride. If its falling off the sled because I walloped something then not yet. I was just fucking with ya, but I'd be worried the first branch to rub would scrap it right off.

NSFW, I guess: http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m6174zCJvP1qz6f9yo1_r1_500.jpg

I know the wall added some weight to the car, but I think you'll find that as time goes on, the car will gradually start getting lighter and lighter as body panels, nuts & bolts fall off.