ssh

imo it depends how the box is going to sit. I like to do it where gravity is pushing down on a solid piece, such as the way you have it drawn if its upright Well the side with the multiple baffles is for the driver mounting, whether that's facing up, down, back, etc, I believe is immaterial.

For those who build boxes, would the above be stronger if the red colored panels were in between the green colored panels?

I don't know how many online calculators do it, but I'm sure any decent programs for building enclosures does it, at least it should.

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels.. I'll upload a couple pics in a minute. I'm also almost done with a script for calculating port length for tuning, while accounting for port displacement. Works on slots, circular ports, and aero ports. Damn thats pretty awesome man It was a bit confusing to write up at time, specifically getting the tuning right since it changes as the enclosure changes from the port displacement.

I used three strips of plumbers tape, bottom, top, inner side. I drilled a hole through the fiberglass base, and a little bit into the baffle, then I ran a drywall screw from the bottom of the fiberglass base up through a hole in the plumbers tape, and a screw through another hole on the plumbers tape into the baffle. Since the screw is coming from the wrong side it doesn't get tight, has a little play, but your able to bend and twist the baffle into any position.Once I found what I liked, I pulled it out, hot glued dowels in, and remove plumbers tape that was in the way. I should remove the rest so it doesn't rattle when the speakers are installed. I haven't decided if I'm just going to wrap the fabric over everything as normal, or fill with expanding foam, sand to shape, and glass. Like this: (bobwires audio)

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels.. I'll upload a couple pics in a minute. I'm also almost done with a script for calculating port length for tuning, while accounting for port displacement. Works on slots, circular ports, and aero ports.

Finished fiberglassing the base for kicks, used plumbers tape to mount the baffle, once I tweaked it to where it fit well I just added wood dowels then took the plumbers tape off. It was so easy.

I think it's time for another J, then straight to sleep.

Supercross is awesome, both heats have been epic.

Is this it? Welcome to the forum.

I'm looking for 500shipped, it pounds the lows. I'm sorry I just had to.

Ryan from Ram designs can make you a 3d design, with cutouts, it doesn't get much easier then that, and his pricing is very fair. Shoot him a pm: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/user/17102-ram-designs/

Jigsaw seems way too bulky to use on the door, I'd definitely use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel as Jared said.

For head and buttsecks? pssh what else?

Take picture, use as blackmail.

2.48069 ft^3 internal volume before port and driver. 0.98 ft^3 port displacement 0.2 ft^3 both subwoofers displacement net volume: 1.3 ft^3 It's tuned to: 41hz That's what I came up with. That tuning may be a bit high depending on what genre of music you listen to. When you state "port length 1 and port length 2", is that because the port is in the shape of an "L", and those lengths make up the "L"? Or did you try one port length of 9", then tried another port length of 28"? The above tuning is based on a port length of 37". How do you have the subsonic(ssf) and low pass filter (lpf) set on your amplifier?

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re calc isn't accurate because it doesn't take certain displacements into consideration. Next time you post dimensions and information, post it like the following so we can actually read it. wood thickness: 0.75in width: 20in depth: 20in height: 20in port width: 4in port height: 6in port length: 14in attempted tuning: 30hz

I think the higher you cross the mids the more of a problem you may have withe dash in the way. I like to use 1"x2" blocks with compound miters on them to secure my rings. Good luck Brother. Hmm, around 1800-2000hz. Guess I'll just have to test. is the mid firing into the dash more so then previously? maybe you could treat the under side of the dash with some type of foam/deadening product. here's a strange idea. what if you over lapped the woofer's mounting ring a bit with the tweeter. you might be able to bring the mid down, away from the bottom of the dash some more. maybe use have a sphere of styrofoam behind the tweeter (would have to fiberglass it) another idea. the mid and tweet do not necessarily have to be on the same plain. The mid wouldn't be aimed higher and into the dash, it's more that part of the dash is just the blocking the top third of the cone from line of sight (sitting in drivers seat). I've thought of your second idea, making them overlap, Sean was saying it would be best to put the tweeter in the center, and as close as possible to the mid (If I remember correctly). Otherwise I thought about if the mid could be slightly tucked under the tweeter, like this: Later today I'm going to cutout the base I made, hopefully I can pull it on and off without any issues as it replaces the stock kick panel as well. I'll glass some wood blocks to it, and mount the plumbers tape and baffle. See where I'm at.

I haven't seen anything that funny in a while. Awe man, just sitting in the car, heat, listening to music, following them and laughing your ass off, does it get any better?

I should neg you for that.

Well it's still nice to see people getting educated in what ever field they decide to get into. DC lvl 8 so much better!

Good plan, and I like your word choice at the end.

Wow! What kinda enclosure are they in! 151db on 600rms each is amazing! Seems like it should of did the 156 with rated rms (2250). Is that a wall setup or bandpass? Cant be a regular ol ported setup. Unless u really kno wtf ya doin. It's Steve Meade of course he knows....lol you fail.

Sounds hilarious.