ssh

I read about that, but I think they made some software update to fix that. There's a guy on smd selling one right now (360.2), considering getting it and his rockford T400-4. Then I'd just need speakers, a bluetooth palm pda, and I'm done.

Not gonna happen with that application unless you use a vented aperiodic membrane/IB or glass an enclosure into your footwell. Would something like this (obviously not complete) not have enough volume?

I also happen to have a pair of these: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-874&FTR=tang%20band%20w6-1721 Forgot I had them in the closest. Their super heavy though... Now that I think of it, they probably weigh near the ex-anarchies. Going to measure up the dash, apillars and kick panel area. Biggest outer diameter I would feel comfortable doing in kick panels would be 7.5" absolute max. Max depth for driver: ~5" On lower part of a-pillar right near dash I could easily fit a 4" driver with 3" or so of depth.

You have been a tremendous help. A used bit one is almost my entire budget so I'll look back to the 3sixty.2 or see if I can make real time adjustments to a minidsp with a laptop. Thanks man. For the 3sixty.2, They show that you need a palm os device or smart phone with windows o/s on it for tuning, or visit their website for a list of compatible phones, yet there is no list. aggh Have to find out if it'll work on either an ipad (doubtful) or an android o/s phone (droidx). you can use any windows pda, phone, or laptop that has bluetooth. The only setback is if the laptop has windows 7 then the software is not compatible. I believe it works with vista ok, but XP and back for sure. All of the windows phones and pdas work fine. You may be able to find one on craigs list for like 20 bucks. You can download or get more info about the software on Rockfords site. There is a used one up for 280. If you havent seen it Ill link you in a pm. its on another site. That would be great.

If I can fit 8s, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1098 But that might be too big for kicks...

You have been a tremendous help. A used bit one is almost my entire budget so I'll look back to the 3sixty.2 or see if I can make real time adjustments to a minidsp with a laptop. Thanks man. For the 3sixty.2, They show that you need a palm os device or smart phone with windows o/s on it for tuning, or visit their website for a list of compatible phones, yet there is no list. aggh Have to find out if it'll work on either an ipad (doubtful) or an android o/s phone (droidx).

Please get over your idiotic competition nonsense. If you want to demo what SQ sounds like just put on some headphones or sit in a living room with a half decent stereo. It really isn't that hard. Can you not read ??? I said absolutely nothing about competition ... And to be honest, I never said anything about listening to my truck because the equipment /setup he is looking for is nothing like mine, but there is PLENTY vehicles set up like what he is interested in ... And i would like to meet up with as many SSA members as possible just to chat, demos, pictures and vids ... Quit being so subjective ... Maybe if you went to a few competitions, who knows, you might like it ... Lord, you still don't understand subjective. This can help: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/subjective And you did say to go to USACI World Finals to DEMO cars. I just stated that was unnecessary as there are easier ways to have a "demo". Seems like I can read, not so sure about your comprehension though. Definitely a possibility and I agree with the control comment I'm going to measure out the a-pillars to dash and see how much depth / diameter I'm willing to put up, I don't them to be overly large to where I can see out the sides. Just sold the xcons, woot, cha ching!

I got a buyer for my xcons, finally. WOOT.

It's 8ohm, which I know is fine to run, but will it still get enough power for say an 125-150watt@4ohm rated amp? Don't look at only those two specs Either way, generically speaking you are fine. Sounds good. I've heard no mids and highs, just bass, sounds terrible lol. I'm really just planning on dedicated mid bass drivers and down the road possibly a small dcon.

Please get over your idiotic competition nonsense. If you want to demo what SQ sounds like just put on some headphones or sit in a living room with a half decent stereo. It really isn't that hard. I could vary well switch to a 4", or perhaps a vertical array (2) of the 3" drivers. I just don't want to mix to many drivers together and not being able to control everything.

Something like: Peerless Nomex 830869 - 8" Nomex Cone Woofer http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/peerless-nomex-830869-8-nomex-cone-woofer/ It's 8ohm, which I know is fine to run, but will it still get enough power for say an 125-150watt@4ohm rated amp?

In the past when I cross them over higher to play some midbass, I felt like it started to pull away from the bass (~35hz-70hz), like it was playing too wide of content and started to lose it's "tightness", almost muddy.

No. And changing comp sets isn't the best way to get their either. I asked if it was a bad idea, you said no, but I'm assuming you mean no in general to the whole thing. So if I wanted more midbass, instead of mounting fifty speakers on my door panels, what would you suggest. If I crossover the subwoofers higher then it starts to sound sloppy, not as "tight". Simply put, my goal is more midbass. I have the door, dash, and kick panels to work with. Or maybe I should just look for the speaker with the highest RMS rating and give it as much power as I can before it blows. Instead of pointing the kick panel speakers from opposite sides (ex, speaker on driver side point to passenger, passenger speaker pointed to driver.) if I pointed both speakers to the driver? I haven't read a whole lot on alignments... I see JL has a 6.5" subwoofer, JL Audio 6W3V3-4.......................................... Have you considered going active? Considering all the fabrication work you're able to do a fullrange and a hardcore midbass would be pretty sweet considering your goals. Sean's mentioned the idea before and it seems like it would satisfy your goals. Yes I'm starting to consider to it. I'm thinking about: exodus anarchy http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 sls 6.5 http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers/peerless-830946-sls-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/ then SEAS Prestige 4.4" http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/seas-prestige-mca12rc-h1304-4.5-coated-paper-midrange/ Legatia L3 HAT http://store.12velectronics.com/products/Legatia-L3-Speaker-Set.html And finally some tweeters if needed. and getting a new amp, some crossover, or maybe a minidsp? I know I'm very strung out and indecisive today, just a bad day for me. Whoa, slow down killer. Goals, mounting locations, budget, processing, etc first. And throw out the stupid HAT idea, overpriced marketing foo foo. I did throw out the hat . Goals, mid bass with authority, lots and lots. Considering a single 6.5" since those would fit nicely in the kick panel area. Midrange / tweeter can be mounted in dash / a-pillar, I'll likely try a-pillar first, they can be on-axis, anything. Budget is around $800-900 for new speakers, 4channel amp, and processing. Current Headunit has a single rca output for front, which shouldn't be a problem if I end up getting an audison bit ten?

Hmm, the cheapest I found out of all those was a bit ten on ebay for $400 from bulgaria.I'll have to read more on the minidsp, perhaps if I have it hooked up to a laptop I can adjust the crossovers on the fly. Otherwise I'm getting way out of my budget with a bit ten.How about a 360.1 or .2 used? I haven't looked lately but those new should be in the 300ish range I'd would assume. I actually am buddies with a RF dealer, so whenever I decide to go active, I'll be able to get one at a reasonable price.But as far as most easily controlled processor/crossover is going to cost 300+. Unless you go with a older used headunit, like the 9855(which I've always wanted one).Pioneer has a few options too.Check around classifieds though, you could possibly get lucky. I've noticed if your on a budget, patience is your friend. And usually if you wait and look hard enough, you will find a good deal.On a side note, what are you currently running and how is it installed? And have you tried everything you can to get the most out of it? I currently have a set of $100 vibe audio 6.5" comps installed in kick panels and tweeters in dash. I've messed with their positioning and what not, certainly got them better then in the past. I know their a cheap pair of comps, but even looking at some nicer 2way comp sets, I don't see any that have massive midbass drivers like the exodus ex-anarchy. I'll look into the RF 360's, the more I think about it though, if the audison will allow me to adjust everything on the fly, I may just bite the bullet and get one (used is cool). The cool thing about using one of these is I wouldn't have to replace my head unit, which isn't the end of the world, just one less thing to do. Everything I see it looks like the audison bit one would work as well, does it cost more then the bit ten? Thanks for the help. Me too, but a tad too far.

btw, aux input for the 9855 is like 10 bucks. Thanks, that certainly helps.

No. And changing comp sets isn't the best way to get their either. I asked if it was a bad idea, you said no, but I'm assuming you mean no in general to the whole thing. So if I wanted more midbass, instead of mounting fifty speakers on my door panels, what would you suggest. If I crossover the subwoofers higher then it starts to sound sloppy, not as "tight". Simply put, my goal is more midbass. I have the door, dash, and kick panels to work with. Or maybe I should just look for the speaker with the highest RMS rating and give it as much power as I can before it blows. Instead of pointing the kick panel speakers from opposite sides (ex, speaker on driver side point to passenger, passenger speaker pointed to driver.) if I pointed both speakers to the driver? I haven't read a whole lot on alignments... I see JL has a 6.5" subwoofer, JL Audio 6W3V3-4.......................................... Have you considered going active? Considering all the fabrication work you're able to do a fullrange and a hardcore midbass would be pretty sweet considering your goals. Sean's mentioned the idea before and it seems like it would satisfy your goals. Yes I'm starting to consider to it. I'm thinking about: exodus anarchy http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 sls 6.5 http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers/peerless-830946-sls-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/ then SEAS Prestige 4.4" http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/seas-prestige-mca12rc-h1304-4.5-coated-paper-midrange/ Legatia L3 HAT http://store.12velectronics.com/products/Legatia-L3-Speaker-Set.html And finally some tweeters if needed. and getting a new amp, some crossover, or maybe a minidsp? I know I'm very strung out and indecisive today, just a bad day for me. No L3 please Check out Fostex, they made a replacement for the FF85k. I ruled out the L3 about an hour ago lol. Leaning towards exodus ex-anarchy, and peerless 3" full range. Then getting some sort of processing. Looking at audison bit ten but that's awfully pricey for me. The minidsp is pretty sweet but I don't believe it would be on the fly adjustments unless I could do it realtime with a laptop. I have to read more on the documentation.

Hmm, the cheapest I found out of all those was a bit ten on ebay for $400 from bulgaria. I'll have to read more on the minidsp, perhaps if I have it hooked up to a laptop I can adjust the crossovers on the fly. Otherwise I'm getting way out of my budget with a bit ten.

I'm thinking of just doing: exodus ex-anarchy mid bass, Peerless 830986, 3" Full Range, 4 channel amp, and some alpine head unit with aux input and crossovers for 2way.

It doesn't look like the 9887 has a regular aux input, dammit.

I don't use the usb/ipod cable so that's fine. I can mount the mid range on axis no problem. I literally just read some reviews of the HAT L3 midrange I was looking at, one review did a direct drop in with a $50 cdt driver and said he couldn't tell the difference. Also found some tests with an rta and so forth, people seem to come to a conclusion that they are hyped up. So now I'm looking into full range 3"- 4" drivers on pe / madisound.

I know they make an addon for the minidsp that's suppose to combat that when installed in a car. The 9855 only has to two rca output for speakers (front and rear), so I didn't use a tweeter then I suppose that would work. Is there any headunits that are 8 channel with processing? (Since I'll need an additional two for the subwoofers). A-pillars then. I'll look into the peerless you posted. the 9855 has a 3way mode, so you can run fullrange, midbass and sub. just installed it in my bro's car. Alpine PXA-H701 might be able to do 3way plus sub.. not completely sure though Well if I use a driver that plays double duty (full range) then I guess that would work, or I could use a single minidsp. The nice thing about the headunit is changing all the settings instantly, where as the minidsp I would have to be plugging into computer and flashing, but being able to use any crossover points and slopes would be awesome. I need to familiarize myself with the better headunits. I like how those full range tang bands you posted in memphis's thread look. lol. But the pricetag on the peerless you used and liked is nice too!

I know they make an addon for the minidsp that's suppose to combat that when installed in a car. The 9855 only has to two rca output for speakers (front and rear), so I didn't use a tweeter then I suppose that would work. Is there any headunits that are 8 channel with processing? (Since I'll need an additional two for the subwoofers). A-pillars then. I'll look into the peerless you posted.

What did you use for processing and filtering? 2 way or 3 way setup?

Okay I'm seriously considering going active for a few reasons: I want midbass with authority, hopefully better sq since I can tune everything, and I like to fiddle and adjust shit like crazy so this will give me something to work on and "perfect" so to speak. Tweeters and or mid range can fiberglassed to a-pillars or installed in dash. I'll likely try both. Midbass 6.5s will be in kick panels. I once heard a hybrid audio demo car and it has 4" mid ranges, 6.5" midbass, and 8" subwoofers, no tweeters, and it sounded awesome. Not saying that I'll be able to get away with not using a tweeter. Let's start from the bottom. Midbass I'm looking at: peerless sls 6.5s http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers/peerless-830946-sls-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/ and exodus ex-anarchy http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 Midrange I found some seas, SEAS Prestige MCA12RC (H1304) 4.5" http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/seas-prestige-mca12rc-h1304-4.5-coated-paper-midrange/ I like the price. And some Hybrid Audio Legatia L3, http://store.12velectronics.com/products/Legatia-L3-Speaker-Set.html I believe these are what I heard in the demo car where no tweeters were used. Tweeters Would I need tweeters if I was using the seas prestige? If so, I was thinking about the seas prestige 1" textile dome tweeter, http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-tweeters/seas-prestige-27tffnc/g-h1396-1-textile-dome-tweeter/ I also happen to have four Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" Extended Range, http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range/ Could these be used for tweeter/midrange replacement? Or just pretend I don't have them. Amplifying and Sound Processing Going to look around for a decent 4 channel (already have a 2channel amp). example: tweeters (left and right)2 midrange (left and right)2 midbass (left and right)2 6channels or midrange (left and right)2 midbass (left and right)2 4channels For sound processing, I'm looking into the miniDSPs, specifically the Rev B 2x4, I would use one if I didn't end up using tweeters, or two for tweeters (and two extra channels would be left open, mine as well use them for the subs... ) Then I just have to figure out which software plugins I need to buy for crossing over everything. Any one have any input, thoughts, experience, anything to add?

No. And changing comp sets isn't the best way to get their either. I asked if it was a bad idea, you said no, but I'm assuming you mean no in general to the whole thing. So if I wanted more midbass, instead of mounting fifty speakers on my door panels, what would you suggest. If I crossover the subwoofers higher then it starts to sound sloppy, not as "tight". Simply put, my goal is more midbass. I have the door, dash, and kick panels to work with. Or maybe I should just look for the speaker with the highest RMS rating and give it as much power as I can before it blows. Instead of pointing the kick panel speakers from opposite sides (ex, speaker on driver side point to passenger, passenger speaker pointed to driver.) if I pointed both speakers to the driver? I haven't read a whole lot on alignments... I see JL has a 6.5" subwoofer, JL Audio 6W3V3-4.......................................... Have you considered going active? Considering all the fabrication work you're able to do a fullrange and a hardcore midbass would be pretty sweet considering your goals. Sean's mentioned the idea before and it seems like it would satisfy your goals. Yes I'm starting to consider to it. I'm thinking about: exodus anarchy http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 sls 6.5 http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers/peerless-830946-sls-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/ then SEAS Prestige 4.4" http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/seas-prestige-mca12rc-h1304-4.5-coated-paper-midrange/ Legatia L3 HAT http://store.12velectronics.com/products/Legatia-L3-Speaker-Set.html And finally some tweeters if needed. and getting a new amp, some crossover, or maybe a minidsp? I know I'm very strung out and indecisive today, just a bad day for me.