ssh

2way comp set. Tweeters, 6.5" driver, and passive crossover. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_28066_VIBE-Audio-Black-Air-6-V2-BA6-V2.html I was referring to those 6.5s as midbass drivers, sorry if that was confusing

M5, If you had the option to put midbass drivers (6.5s) in either kick panels or in dash (firing toward windshield and reflecting back), goal being best midbass, which way would you go? I pretty much have the room to fit the 6.5s in dash, just need to space them out an inch above dash and fiberglass down. I have enough room in the kick panel area to face the speaker any direction, unfortunately it'll take up a fair amount legroom. Any thoughts?

If only the depth was a little shorter for pillars ill prob do it for my desk.What are you using to power your shelf comp speakers you made 6 months back? Home receiver? Or some computer friendly amp?A pawn shop Pio Elite Well damn! I'll probably look around for some fairly inexpensive amps from pe, or check craigslist for receivers. Thanks

Should reduce some flex

Thanks Practice practice practice!

If only the depth was a little shorter for pillars ill prob do it for my desk. What are you using to power your shelf comp speakers you made 6 months back? Home receiver? Or some computer friendly amp?

I just feel like an old man, been hunched over fiberglassing for the last three days, finally starting to get the hang of it Bought some cheap aura sound neos, figured I'd play around with them. Need to get a better hu with more crossover functions and amp. Also making kick panels for some 6.5s (vibe comp set). Going to try both setups out then stick with one. I think I'll likely pull out the auras and use them for some computer desk speakers

the12volt, http://www.bcae1.com/, use search function on ssa board, car-audio mag.

Any updates? Need to get some service done to the car soon and would like to get the alt installed at the same time. Thanks Edit: Took the car in today to get it worked on, so no rush as usual.

thats what im talking about just say what the hell and do it. Replaced my tweets in the dash and started fiberglassing a kicker panel today. Opened the moonroof to get some ventilation, and now it won't close..

Discharge it before meddling with it.

Real name: stefan hinote Organization in which you are or will be competing in: meca Comp vehicle: 2002 volvo v40 Current setup: front stage --------------- vibe air 6.5" comp set vibe litebox 2 channel amp bass ------ 2 15" ssa xcons 1 saz3000D electrical ------------ extra xspower d1200 in the rear. dc alt being made. Currently in the process of fiberglassing my doors, replacing my 6.5" comp set to a few full range 3" aura sound drivers. Replacing tweeters in front dash to some hertz. Few pics: Few vids: Why you should be part of the team: I've done a lot to my car, but it'll never be complete. I'm always changing setups and tweaking settings to get a better well rounded system. The best I've managed in meca in spl is a 146.7 @ 40hz. This year I plan on breaking 150 and focusing on a better front stage for sq (turning bass way way down). I'm pretty active on ssa, I try to help people as much as I can, whenever I can. I'm not perfect, not a know it all, but I do my best to learn and inform others. I live in Tucson, AZ, about 15 minutes away from the SS warehouse Pretty much any car audio show in the southern az region I attend. I give a fair amount of demos here and there, often times talking about the xcons and how damn good they sound, I'm sure people would also like to know what sound deadener I use, and how to use it (cld for panel resonance, mlv for sound deadening, ccf for panel decoupling). I currently have no sound deadener in my vehicle, and I believe a SS sticker would look good with all the others on my rear / side window.

Sounds like it should do a lot Not sure if you could fit it, but I've seen people get a panel of mdf and drill large holes through it (imagine swiss cheese almost), then glue and screw the panel in for a big brace.

if you look closely at the beginning of the vid you can see whats left of the old pole. It does stop flex, but the glass still breaks. But the metal on the edges of the welds is so thin it keeps ripping the base of the pole from the vehicles floor. So that's what that little stub was I saw It's like you need some flat bar to run around the edges of the windshield, and rubber between flat bar and glass, then screwed down every 6" or so. Perhaps this would lessen the flex but also take away some "play area" for the windshield to move and actually crack easier? Or do some alan dante shit lol. (but then bumped into an extreme class?) I'm glad I'm not blowing out windshields

I liked how you ran your batteries and mounted amps, has an industrial feel to it. Jealous of all the space you got to work with. Good luck on fixing your baffle issue.

Any plans for a stripper pole?

Your soundbar has motivated me to do some more work on my front stage Trying out some wacky ideas, who knows how it'll sound, only one way to find out

Car looks super clean, you did a great job.

Loving all the pictures, I like the soundbar although not sure how well itd sound right behind your head. Love the look of the FIs and big dustcap. Wish I could hear another Volvo wagon

He hasn't mentioned anything about tweaking crossovers in both cases though. See now? hmmm, either way I don't know

He hasn't mentioned anything about tweaking crossovers in both cases though.

There is nothing wrong with playing football without your gear on unless your soft. So you play when your hard?

Tuned in man!

The infamous bl is finally here!

My dc alt (for 12v battery, 14v charge) would sit in low 15v range at idle in 100degree weather If you do two alts, use one for stock electrical, and other for 14v batteries and 16v charge for amps. And make sure the amps your looking at can handle 16v, some have protection circuits for higher voltages.