ssh

Bookmarked!

Build another box for your current driver, but make a ported enclosure instead of sealed, see how that sounds to you! Tune to ~33hz

I'd rather have a blunt correct response, then a nice misinformed one. And x4 to M5 coming up first in my mind

well isn't that cool. I hope your EA alt works well. When I was looking to get a h/o alt I read reviews on iraggi, mechman, ea, and dc. Iraggi, mechman, and EA all had mixed reviews, especially EA's having bad voltage drop at idle, So I went with DC considering they had zero negative reviews. Does the EA alt have a stock size pulley? or is it smaller to compensate? They have negative reviews as well, just not as many and there customer service does help stop the negative reviews from being posted. Well I couldn't find any I only read two issues people had with their DC alts, both were here in their section of the forum, and both seemed to be taken care of.

well isn't that cool. I hope your EA alt works well. When I was looking to get a h/o alt I read reviews on iraggi, mechman, ea, and dc. Iraggi, mechman, and EA all had mixed reviews, especially EA's having bad voltage drop at idle, So I went with DC considering they had zero negative reviews. Does the EA alt have a stock size pulley? or is it smaller to compensate?

Depending on the enclosure volume and port diameter, you can have port noise issues (turbulence), but I'm not sure how much port area and diameter to volume you need. Any box builder will know

An extra battery in the back wouldn't hurt, probably all it needs. say a d3400

Ok...thanks. How about ports, location, size? Also to keep the box as slim as I can...what is the minimum distance I should have between the edge of the basket and the edge of the box? The O.D. of the sub is listed as 8.25, so would I be able to make the top depth of the box somewhere between 8.5" and 9"? Try port back, you can either do a simple slot port or use an aero port. I think 8.5" or 9" would work fine, considering there's a few boxes I've seen built that had a width of 15" and had a 15" driver mounted, just had the ends on the box sanded down and the driver gasket was kept flush with the wood.

YES! I can only imagine what they've done to the btl, *waits for fi website to be updated*

Right...the safety of the subs was one concern I did have. I don't know anything about unloading so that was never a consideration. I'll look that up so I know what it is. In simple terms, unloading is when the sound waves have something to hit and reflect off of. Certain vehicles can make use of the shape of their rear window *cough* hatchbacks *cough* and gain a fair amount of output. Generally in suv type vehicles, up firing works well if not best. There are exceptions, but those you can only find by trial and error, or a lot of math and physics knowledge I would do a single chamber and single port for the enclosure.

Considering the distance from the back of the rear seat to the tail gate, your not going to get as much of a unloading effect gain from the hatch as other rear firing setups do, so I vote upfiring Plus if your upfire, you can have stuff stored in the back and don't have to worry about it getting too close to the drivers, or get big ugly grills

Guess so, noob. Once again, just messing

I love all the wood INSIDE the house Box is looking way better then what I would have contrapted Sanding down all the edges, painting the port, carpet, and it'll look pretty sweet

C'mon man, This isn't related to Fi at all. If you want help, post in the right section

SSF I assume is subsonic filter. That was set to off on the bd amps and is set to 10 hertz on the sundown amp or as low as it can go on the sundown amp. I assume that lpf is low pass. That is set to 80 hertz from the head unit and left wide open on both amps since I set it on the head unit. yes ssf is subsonic filter, sorry for not clarifying. turning it counterclockwise is fine since your running a sealed enclosure. I'd set the lpf on the amp to 80hz as well, I'd rather rely on it's crossover then the headunits, or use both Just for quicks when playing music turn the lpf and see if it sounds any better? If your h/u's lpf isn't actually working, or depending on slope, it may still be playing higher frequencies that would make your bass sound muddy.

I'll be there! Sweet! Time for me to look up all the rules

Welcome! If you by chance happen to be at the southwest audio fest show in Tucson next month, I'll cya there

the 2010 silverados have really good clearance under the seat and i can make him a box because he's my cousin and lives less than a mile from me. LOL Owned Shogen! thanks ass...lmfao... i laughed at myself when I read his reply too... There was no way for you to know they were cousins haha. Just funny stuff. Output wise and especially for your space constraints, it may work better to do a couple sa8s in a ported enclosure.

the 2010 silverados have really good clearance under the seat and i can make him a box because he's my cousin and lives less than a mile from me. LOL Owned Shogen!

I think for what you want and the power your using, bls or btls in a ported enclosure would be a better choice. They'll get loud and they'll sound good. and you still didn't answer my question, what was the ssf and lpf set to on the bds and currently on the 3500d?

x2 Considering your looking at a small enclosure and small driver, I would say your not going for output. The w3 is a great driver, only downer is a bit pricey, but by the time you get a custom enclosure made to copy their stealth box, you may very well break even

what were your amp settings on the bds set to? And what are the settings on your 3500d set to? (gain, ssf, lpf, bassboost) Do you have your drivers wired down to 1ohm or 4ohm? 3.5kw for some Qs... perhaps you should switch to a bl or btl. And your running sealed... I understand if your going for true sq, going with the Qs and sealed, but SQ and 3.5kws don't exactly go hand in hand.

Bump for the above questions.

I'd go with xs power batteries, there powerful and bombproof But they do cost a bit compared to other batteries such as kinetik. After you get your alt in, get a couple batteries and check your voltage at full tilt, if it's dropping into the 12.5v range consistently then I'd get a couple more batteries and check again. You don't want to be discharging your batteries the whole time your playing at full tilt, but they can pick up the slack that the alt can't manage. -Sundown AudioPerhaps running your stock alt and dc alt would be a good idea...

lpf should be set to ~80hz. ssf should be set a couple hertz below enclosure tuning frequency, if your enclosure is sealed then you can turn your ssf all the way counterclockwise.