ssh

I would install the speakers and give them a listen first before buying another amp, you might already be content.

Adrian: http://revlimiter.net/store/gauges-warbird.php

Cute kid Don't run the Exodus that high. If you run a 3 way you can get something that digs WAY lower and use a VERY cheap tweeter on the top. MOunting locations will determine all options though. I would rather run a two way system. Let's say max budget is 160 for mids and 160 for highs as maximum budget. Is there a better option that Ex-Anarchy? They seem to be quite the performers. I can get the tweeters/FR's/whatever on axis, but the mid will be off axis. There's only so much I can do. What do you suggest Sean? I know I mentioned a 2-way with the peerless hds tweets, but now I see you already have them according to your sig? What's wrong with that setup?

The peerless / scanspeak discovery HDS tweeters match well with the ex-anarchies if you wanted to do a 2-way. That's perfect! Thanks for giving me an actual recommendation bro. You rock! I don't remember the exact filter type and slope I'm using, but mine are crossed around 1800-1900hz. Play with aiming the tweeters before finalizing. I imagine they should be fine on-axis, but I have mine partially off-axis due to install limitations.

The peerless / scanspeak discovery HDS tweeters match well with the ex-anarchies if you wanted to do a 2-way.

I'm going to be in downtown Dallas in March for a conference, if I have any free time is there anything I should check out in the area?

Yeah that's pretty shitty.

If you want people to take you seriously then you better rethink your policies. Then what do you want to see because all dealers are under same warranty policy. It's been like that for years in the US and nobody has complained once until i publicly stated how it worked. Everyone else has been taken seriously for years so what's the difference here? This is just my opinion, but to me having the warranty start at the date of manufacture is a scam. You stated that your policy is to not keep stock longer than 2 months, but frankly that's completely besides the point. Two people purchase the same amps at the same time, both break a year later, and only one person gets covered because they were "lucky" in the sense that their amp didn't sit on the shelf as long as the other? If so, that's a terrible policy in place. I'm not posting to bash or argue, but I am offering perspective that other potential buyers may feel.

If you want people to take you seriously then you better rethink your policies.

Have you tried sine waves?

If they were smart they would have set up a camera and fined their ass for stealing federal propertyYeah or better yet they should do a stake out--shit is serious.

Poor cats.

Or better yet: http://bitpusher.in/?p=portgraph&driver=6&xdrivers=3&rms=3000&tuning=30#bottom Also I believe the newer edition of WinISD can graph port speed and port area. Another thing to note, when you calculate for port speed you should take impedance into consideration so you use a more appropriate power value than the amp's rating at XYZ ohms. In simple terms: amp XYZ rated for 3500watts at 1ohm, you're "wired" to 1ohm, but in reality the integration or average of the impedance plot between your crossover points is more than likely above 1ohm. So if you calculate port speed with 3500watts when in reality it's closer to 2000watts then it's going to appear much higher than the real value. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it's probably safe to say you could use 3/4 of your amp's power rating that you're "wiring to" and would still be playing it safe if you didn't want to do further modeling. As to what port speed is acceptable, that's going to vary from application to application, and it's one of the harder things to get advice on considering most people on the forum haven't actually tested various port speeds and the resulting effects. There's a few white papers on the matter if you'd like to do some more extensive reading--I can try and dig some up if you want? If it was me I'd aim for 25 m/s or lower, but that's just my opinion, so feel free to wait until someone else with more knowledge chimes in.

Though I don't understand much of it, the niche sounds fun to get into with all the customization.

I like that metal.

That's an ironic statement considering you are going off of this assumption that his tools are accurate.If we knew for certain the dmm and clamp meter were calibrated and remotely accurate (ie: 5100watts vs 5150.5watts) then I could see using them for this situation, but if you don't know for certain how accurate they are then that's troublesome. Then the next issue I see is measuring distortion. If you don't know what the THD is when you're measuring then it's pointless. On top of that you would need to know how accurate the measuring device for distortion is. The results of these tests is a sum of using multiple measurement devices where none of the measurement devices are calibrated or compared to some standard. If each is off some, all together that could be a substantial difference, or perhaps it's not, but if you don't know then how can you possibly trust the results? I don't know much about electronics or amps, but there's probably a lot more factors that go into accurately measuring an amp besides voltage, amperage, impedance, and THD, but that's all I can point out. :shrugs:

Ouch. I take it you were able to limp it back?

"Not again..."

3 story apartment building in the hood actually. Big meth lab or gas leak?

Ah yeah!