DaberAudio

Alright , stands are cut, refitted, and lead filled. I have an estimated 20 hours of listening/break in time on them. I am shocked, awed, and absolutely blown away. They are not bass monsters, but for most listening needs I do not need my subwoofer. The imaging is breathtaking, precise is the only way to describe it. The sound stage is HUGE, both in height and width. Accuracy is top rate. Well recorded live instruments take on an eerie realism that gives me chills. I torture my friends and family with speakers. Every time I build something, buy something, or repair something we test it out. This time has been great. I have a track I start off with that is all live jazz horns. It starts out the same with these every time. - their eyes narrow, then they begin to smirk, and then they get a shit eating grin on their head and usually look at me and say "oh my GOD". I then move on to things they are more familiar with. Oh well, enough rambling, I know you only came here for pics anyway

I know a guy in central illinois who is selling a set of Klipsch KG-4's and a vintage HK receiver for $400 if you feel like making a little road trip.

ROFL, i'll consider that, seriously. j/k What? I can't click on "girls of CLZZ" and get a gallery? Haha, that is actually a great idea. it's currently set up to rotate a few different girls on every page load of the index page. I work on a gallery though, just for you Ok, and me too... Where did you find these chicks?

Like everyone else said, you should be fine. If you are not using a box program, a nice FREE (well, it is pretty nice for free) program is WinISD. Google it and get it. Input your driver parameters. Then load your driver and begin working! Yyou can model basic enclosures, watch your output, impedance, relative phase, excursion with given input relative to frequency, port velocity, etc. It's a pretty useful tool and is much better than most free box programs.

I've done many projects and modifications over the years and I know (and can admit) when they don't turn out well. If I would have bought a pair from a manufacturer that sounded like this and spent serious money, I would still be happy. If you want xover info and such, let me know, or if in the future you want a pair but don't want the hassle of building it, it would be easy to replicate and ship. I'm going to be doing a monster build for a guy in Peoria next week hopefully. It will be a MTM tower using Usher drivers, custom crossovers, and a powered sub in each tower. Those will be interesting.

ROFL, i'll consider that, seriously. j/k What? I can't click on "girls of CLZZ" and get a gallery?

I'm telling you man, those little things are amazing. I was about to buy some B&W 603 S3's but I am VERY glad that I made these instead. If you want crossover info let me know, it did change a bit from what is pictured. For normal music listening they really do not need a subwoofer. It's not a "cheap" build, I think it was in the low $500s, but damn was it worth every penny. A lot of people say that dome midranges provide sloppy imaging and soundstage. I'm not getting that at all with these. I had these sitting on my floor last night listening to them while I worked on my laptop and it was imaging like crazy. The mids and tweets were revealing all kinds of subtle details that I had not heard in my reference cd's before, and what was most surprising about that was the fact that they were not even being powered by one of my better amps. I am running a junk Audiosource Amp 3 to them at the moment. They also have no problem taking a lot of power. If you want a great mid sized monitor this might be for you.

Thank you! It wasn't that intensive of a build. The worst part was that I dropped one of the baffles, broke a bottom and chipped out a countersunk edge around one of the woofer cutourts. I had to reform it with DAP wood filler, sand down, and repaint both baffles so the would match. I also had to do some crossover mods that varied a little from the ones pictured. I noticed a few things I didn't like when I voiced them. Aside from that, they are just amazing to listen to. They sound better than the Thiel CS 2.2's the replaced, which is saying a lot. Nevermind the fact that they are still breaking in and that they are on my floor as the stands aren't back from the machine shop yet.

put the binding posts in and soldered the connections. They don't look bad, but they don't look that great either. However, they are on the rear of the speaker and if anyone ever even sees it I will be surprised (except for on here I guess). Here is the port. It's a basic flared port, nothing fancy. Sounds good though! No detectable turbulence without overdriving the woofer. Oh look, a tweeter. [ Pictures of the completed speakers. They are dusty, I have not polished them yet. I have stands for these but they are at a machine shop being shortened. They are 24 inch stands but are WAY too tall for these speakers. I'm having 11 inches taken off. I will take more pictures when I get the stands back tomorrow. I will also dig out some Tympanist pictures, and a recent $1,000 restoration on a pair of Acoustic Research AR-3a speakers. Yes, you read the correctly.....a thousand dollar resto mod to a pair of AR-3s.

(Crosspost from the Daber Audio forum) Hey guys, I thought I’d drop a quick line and show you a project I was working on. This is my interpretation of a project I had found online and had found interesting. This is a pretty basic build, nothing too special. All of these pictures are from inside of my house since I needed my amp to make final crossver adjustments if needed. I sold my Thiel CS 2.2's to fund this build. The drivers are: 8” Hi-Vi M8N magnesium/aluminum driver woofer, 3” Dayton dome mid, and Hi-Vi RT-1C planar tweeter. http://www.daberaudio.com/projectimages/back%20of%20drivers.jpg The crossovers are not yet soldered, but you can see the individual boards for the woofers, mids, and tweets. All parts are Jantzen, Dayton, and Mills. The cabinets are pretty sweet, though I cannot take credit for them completely. These are actually pretty high quality prefabs. That's not to say that I don't have to make some minor modifications I have to port the rears still and install the binding posts. The front baffles are in need of another coat or paint. The router marred them and you can see the natural MDFs color around the sides of the mid (which is really only about 1/64th of an inch gap.) Thought you guys might find this interesting - more to come

I put the binding posts in and soldered the connections. They don't look bad, but they don't look that great either. However, they are on the rear of the speaker and if anyone ever even sees it I will be surprised (except for on here I guess). Here is the port. It's a basic flared port, nothing fancy. Sounds good though! No detectable turbulence without overdriving the woofer. Oh look, a tweeter. [ Pictures of the completed speakers. They are dusty, I have not polished them yet. I have stands for these but they are at a machine shop being shortened. They are 24 inch stands but are WAY too tall for these speakers. I'm having 11 inches taken off. I will take more pictures when I get the stands back tomorrow. I will also dig out some Tympanist pictures, and a recent $1,000 restoration on a pair of Acoustic Research AR-3a speakers. Yes, you read the correctly.....a thousand dollar resto mod to a pair of AR-3s.

Hey guys, I thought I’d drop a quick line and show you a project I was working on. This is a pretty basic build, nothing too special. All of these pictures are from inside of my house since I needed my amp to make final crossver adjustments if needed. I sold my Thiel CS 2.2's to fund this build. The drivers are: 8” Hi-Vi M8N magnesium/aluminum driver woofer, 3” Dayton dome mid, and Hi-Vi RT-1C planar tweeter. http://www.daberaudio.com/projectimages/back%20of%20drivers.jpg The crossovers are not yet soldered, but you can see the individual boards for the woofers, mids, and tweets. All parts are Jantzen, Dayton, and Mills. The cabinets are pretty sweet, though I cannot take credit for them completely. These are actually pretty high quality prefabs. That's not to say that I don't have to make some minor modifications I have to port the rears still and install the binding posts. The front baffles are in need of another coat or paint. The router marred them and you can see the natural MDFs color around the sides of the mid (which is really only about 1/64th of an inch gap.) Thought you guys might find this interesting - more to come

I think you are correct. I have a TERRIBLE habit of not taking pictures of work in progress. I do have some pictures that I can dig up though. I will try to post some tonight. Thanks for the suggestion! I think you should also join HAF and post your pictures. I plan on it., actually. Right now I just took a break from a pair of three way monitors that I am building. I am REALLY close to having them done and hope to have them finished tonight. They are nothing too special, but they are pleasant to look at and sound surprisingly great.

I think you are correct. I have a TERRIBLE habit of not taking pictures of work in progress. I do have some pictures that I can dig up though. I will try to post some tonight. Thanks for the suggestion!

Hey guys - I wanted to take just a second and say hi and tell you a little about me, Daber Audio, and planned future products. I'm an audio junkie, drag racing fan, father of two, married, guy from central Illinois. When I was a little kid (probably about two years old) my dad had an Pionner/Technics/Marantz home stereo set up. I loved to sit and watch the equalizer (digital display) and thought the lines moving up and down were stick people dancing. I then figured out there was a correloation between what sound was being played and which "stick people" danced. So there it began, the obsession. As I got a little older I started getting in to home hifi, then a natural progression to car audio at around age 14. Since then I have continued to try to learn as much as I can, build as much as I can, and more so than anything, enjoy the hobby. Daber Audio was actually conceptualized back in early 2006. At that time I had been on the search for a good home audio subwoofer. I've owned, built, and installed more subwoofer boxes in cars than I can put a number on. I knew how subs worked, knew what a good box was etc. In my search for a real, accurate, and powerful home subwoofer I became quite frustrated and decided to just build my own. I hooked up with a guy up in Minnesota who helped me on the business end of things and I eventually started offering my Daber Audio subwoofers to the home audio crowd. I also do restoration work/custom builds for home audio guys. Anything from a simple refoam/recone, to crossover mods, to cabinet repair, to custom monitors. Last year I decided that I wanted to take a stab at the Car Audio market. The """"SQL"""" subs are similar to the home sub drivers I use. I am in the process of doing some modifications that will make them less similar and I will start a seperate thread about that either later this week or Monday, it just depends on what kind of time I have to post a new in depth topic. Yesterday I leaked the T/S specs on the upcoming """"SQL"""" DVC 12 inch drivers. These will most likely come out after a few other projects get released. We are currently in the beginning stages of bringing out a component set. The component set has a couple of areas that are causing me problems and I am seeking solutions for them (and I think we are almost there). I'm a crossover freak. I don't care how good your drivers are - If you are not using quality components (caps, coils, resistors) you are not realizing the full potential of your drivers. The problem is, true audiophile grade components can get bulky, and therefore the outboard x-over box is rather large (which we all know can be a hindrance to not only installation but to sales). The other issue is that the tweeters have a considerable mounting size. For you sound quality freaks, and talented installers, this is no big deal. However, it's most likely an obstacle for the average consumer. High output drivers are coming. I'm not going to say a lot at this point, because they too will get their own thread. There are some details that have not been hammered out, but rest assured, when they are they will go here first. It's been a slow process, but I'm working to speed things. I'm very excited about what the future holds, and I'm glad to be here. I've got a few different projects going on, so please don't be offended if it takes me a day or so to respond. I REALLY appreciate the warm welcomes that I have received from Aaron, Mark, and the rest of you guys here at the forum. Thank you, Steve Brown Daber Audio

Mods - delete this, I posted to the wrong forum! SORRY!

I would also like to add that I'm working on a modification for these subs. I will post the updates on my site and over at Daber Audio SSA forum!

THANKS! I appreciate it. I will do a full introduction tomorrow. It's 10:30 here and it's been a long day. Thanks for dropping in to say hi, Brandon!

Thank you, I'm glad to be here. Our website is being rebuilt at the moment and should be up soon. You can always contact me directly through that too if you guys have any questions.

Hey guys, I thought I would jump in and provide some comments. They are based on the Dayton HO but there are some suspension differences. In the near future we are bringing out the DVC version of this subwoofer which will actually be cosmetically similar but will be very dissimilar T/S spec wise. I will go ahead and leak the specs on the new DVC 12's. Note that this is for a 12". Fs = 24.68 Hz Qms = 4.095 Vas = 39.5 liters Cms = 0.107 mm/N Mms = 390 g Rms = 14.77 kg/s Xmax = 14 mm Xmech = 21 mm P-Dia = 255 mm Sd = 0.0511 sq.m P-Vd = 0.715 liters Qes = 0.477 Re = 1.8 ohms Le = 2 mH Z = 2 ohms BL = 15.11 Tm Pe = 700 watts Qts = 0.427 no = 0.12 % 1-W SPL = 82.94 dB 2.83-V SPL = 89.42 dB (measured with coils in parallel.) I will be releasing more information in the future once I have the Daber Audio forum up and running. We will also be introducing some component sets in the near future, but before that we will be bringing out a high output driver that is another exclusive product and is handmade. I know you guys don't like the name of this line, so my apologies there. The name is really meant to imply that it is a driver that is well rounded. Any suggestions? I will try to reply to any questions as I get time. I am working on several projects and will check back later. Thanks, Steve Brown Daber Audio