swift

I dont remember my 07 having VVT. It was strong and extremely unnoticeable if it did have it. My 13 Ram on the other hand, was a fucking DOG!! It was so lacking in the power department that I got sick of the truck very quickly.

search for Banshee, the pilot season is well over. That show was so crazy I sure hope it returns

Damn your late!! Loved the show and watched from beginning season to end. A even more crazy one to watch is Banshee on showtime! That is a awesome one, all they do is fight, fuck and kill people.

Love the box

The 6l90 in my V is damn near bulletproof, from what I understand it's just a beefed up 6l80. Even still the 6l80 is stout, the centrifical sc is easier on the trans than a twin screw sc also. I would still look at beefing it up and doing a converter.

No that would be a 2001 Viper stock and after a Novi 2000. Greg Good heads, built bottom end and full exhaust. Car would run 6.3's in the 1/8th. Beast

Happy Happy Happy

Anybody want to take a guess at what this dyno graph is from? This is stock versus modded, same car.

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative 10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period. Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load. On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12. If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!! here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8 I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure. On a dedicated track car that you are trying to get the most out of then I can see maybe leaning out some. But in a boosted car I personally dont want to see mid 12's, you are braver than me I just found some random pics speaking of that SRT10 , Here was the simple wet kit I had on it Here was the stock dyno graph, second pull I removed the air filter. I wish it showed the AF, it was crazy rich, low 10's, I am thinking with the 125 shot it was still in the 12's.

Yep that should be great

I should have grabbed about 6 of those bastards during the sell. maybe this spring

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative 10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period. Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load. On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12. If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!! here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

Sounds fun!

Unless it's very modded, very , he is full of shit.

I needed to justify it to the wife so I never consider a RC. Kinda like my current "wagon" lmao

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

I had a 05, the 06's had even nicer interior.

I never had a issue. Even spraying a 175 through gears. Interior was awesome, I honestly loved the truck. Yes the Porshe was rated at like a 11.9 car and I walked it Hard! Stock it did 430rwhp 450rwtq and on a 125 shot did 560rwhp, over 600 on the big shot.

M5 here is one last suggestion, I have been down your road and had the same goals. The SRT Ram quad cab will tow over 10k and run 13's bone stock. It will out handle and out stop that Escalade. And can be had for 25k with sorta low miles. I put a Zex wet kit on mine and sprayed it with a 175 shot ( no tune needed they are so rich from factory) with that shot it put bus lengths on my good friends 2005 Porshe 911 Turbo S even from highway rolls. Don't sell it short, go drive one. The viper big Tq makes for the funnest truck I ever owned. Screw gas mileage, it's a minor thing if added up honestly. I got 10mpgbin mine and I bet that Escalade is getting 13 at best.

That's gonna slap

The only thing not accounted for in my specs are a double baffle and bracing. The wont make any difference in the outcome, maybe .15cu... I can do a sketch but I literally use paper and a pen. haha, I have not yet messed with a 3D modeling tool enough to use it properly. Im sure he will have final exact specs The SP4 is a very efficient woofer, it will play all the notes you will want.

That would be a tough one to sell if you decide to get out of it. That would be my biggest concern. badass forsure though

parts express

It will perform very well in a daily setup and should play fairly flat (which is good) Lets say someone tells you "man it could be louder with more port" This could be true but it may come at some cost. Here at a couple examples (just as a reference) Lets say enclosure A tuned at 34hz has 200sqin of port and on the meter does 145db at 30hz, 153db at 45hz. Then enclosure B tuned at 34hz and same size but this one has 120sqin of port and this one does 148db at 30hz and a 151 at 45hz. I would take setup B any day of the week in a daily setup. These are clearly just examples and would be install dependent and may not be the case in every install but.

With your max dimensions, I would do 4.5cu net tuned at 32hz with 65.25sqin of port area. This would get down pretty good if built properly. Box would be 16H.. 30W.. 26D.. Port would be 4.5in x 14.5in and be 31.5 in long. OR With the same outside box dimensions you could also do 4.70cuft tuned at 34hz, Port size would be the same except there would be no need for a bend in the port as port length would be 26in. This may be a tad louder in the 40hz range. Some may say use more port area but unless you are competing I feel like 15sq in of port or less will be more musical and not as peaky as say something with 20+sqin of port.