oxsign

First of all I'm a big 1st gen fan, and those panels are way to nice to start cutting up. I would hit the JY and find an older "not so nice" set to work with. Second this is what I did with my panels. You could add more speaker I suppose if SQ isn't what you aim is. You'll nee to get a hole saw to cut the sheet metal on the doors for the mids to fall back through.

Power and Ground wires should be the same, only grounds may be bigger and not vice a verse. This is what I was wondering, thx. correct. The only reason I asked thus was because with my setup I already have 2 runs of 1/0 there, but only 1 1/0 for ground.

Ok so I have a crossfire VR4KD, and this amp has 2 4awg positive inputs & 2 4awg ground inputs. My question is this.... Is it neccessary to have all 4awg as inputs (+ & -) or would it be a problem to run 2 pos 1/0 with 4awg reducers and 2 4awg as gounds? Will the grounds being 4 and the pos being 1/0 be a problem for the amp?

What subs, what amp, what car/truck? I personally would never do prefab.

My sound splinter rlp 12" would be perfict with that amp.

When you say "broke" do you mean like in half or the bolt just pulled out? Also, vid or it didn't happen, lol.

I'm redoing my box for 3-10" (or 3-12" not sure yet). Now currently my port is down low facing the dash. The current box is a TON louder with all the windows down vs up. I know this is normal sometime, but I don't like driving around disturbing everyone with them down, lol. So I was wondering if moving the port would help or make a difference? Port up with the subs, port back towards the back wall of the truck, or try it again with the new box faceing towards the dash again? Just an idea of what it looks like at this time. You can see the "box" at the bottom. It's an "semi-external" with 8" outside & 4" inside to save some space.

I'm looking at possibly doing a trade to get 2 12" Icons, and I was wondering if they would be ok running off of a Kicker 2500 daily? I've never owned an SSA sub, so I'm not to sure what to expect. Thx for any input you can give.

A '70 bug is all 12v from the factory. You'll have enough room behind the seat to put 2 10"s ported if you can get creative enough. I've done it, and seen it done many times. They make HO alts, but I believe they max out at like 80-100amps. So you may want to see about adding another batt or 2 under the front hood/trunk or under the other side of the back seat.

It's not a comp sub by any means, but it can get very loud. I've put up some big numbers with mikes subs.

I've owned 2 of them, and I personally wouldn't put more than 1000w-1200w.

Is it a classic body, or the new body style?

Very nice. What do you do to prep the wood for paint?

What is this setup going into?

675

Yes it is a clean break. Almost as if the original glue just gave out, lol. I'm glad that it's going to be an easy fix (fingers crossed), and I'm not going to have to spend an arm & a leg to buy the "special" glue, lol. Thx again for the help Mike.

Thats some very nice work on the box build.

What was the problem?

When mounting subs like this, can you make the enclosure smaller than recommended? For instance, if the subs call for 1.5 cubes each ported can you get away with making the box 2-2.5 for both? What are the (dis)advantages to mounting subs like this? Or are there any?I know the polarity needs to be reversed with the sub mounted inverted.

You can't make a post like this and not tell us how much money you have to spend.

Agreed. You'll need to either go with a bigger sub, a sub with more power handling, or multiple subs. Those are your only options IMO.

WOW people have been beating these SS subs here lately. That's the second one like this I've seen here. This is a SQ sub, not an SPL sub. IF you know what your doing, they can get very loud, but over all is designed to sound good. That just makes baby jesus cry.

Use a wooden dowel. It wont take up much space at all.

I agree completely, but since he already has the box, it should work OK. I would shoot more for 32Hz.