Dpaw37

...what's wrong with RD?

Really? Wow so I've had it all wrong? For some reason I remember seeing that a 4volt deck or higher is far better for your amp than a normal 2 volt...

Trying to get my brother a decent HU with at least 4 volt preouts, ipod combatibility that works and with connector included preferably, and a decent user interface. Needs to be under $160 after shipping. I've looked at just about everything and I'm stuck between these two. A Pioneer Premier DEH-410UB or Clarion CZ500. The only bad thing about the pioneer is it has terrible control reviews (thumbstick very sensitive etc.) which is why I even looked at the clarion. Clarion: CZ500 - Clarion In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA Receiver, Front Panel Aux-In, Bluetooth Pioneer: DEH-P410UB - Pioneer Premier MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Reciever ALSO, very open to any suggestions anyone might have! Looking to make a purchase today.

Great replys. Thanks guys. Like I said, it was interesting to me how all the rage had xbl2 at the epicenter a few years ago and now it has, as you might put it...gone soft. That being said, I understand the workings of a fad. But I would expect with a driver utilizing xbl^2, reaching xmax with %40 less power than a conventional motor, that those aware of the significance of this 'stat' would've at least kept it mentioned from time to time. I'll admitt I have heard a lot about the SI Mag, the others not so much in fact I don't think I've heard of either of the other 2. Idk seems to me with the way it's been explained in this forum that it is a far-better, if not superior motor? What would be a practicle comparison to someone with intermediate knowledge? Maybe someone could exemplify it a little for me. Thanks again ya'll. Interesting stuff to me.

I ask this question running the risk of it possibly being an ignorant question, but ask it in unique interest nonetheless. Seems like when I got involved in forum browsing a while back all the hype surrounded motors utilizing xbl2 technology for their subs (adire, ascendant, re). I remember ascendant audio discontinuing the use of this tech. due to adire supposedly claiming the tech. was theirs and theirs alone to use blah blah this is all very vague. My question is with so much I heard about xbl2 and the performance that gave it a name, I can't even find those letters mentioned together anywhere on the internet later than 2006?? Did it just die out lol I thnk you see what I mean. Please someone satisfy my curiousity with a little knowledge as I have asked myself this question quite a few times lately.

My treo ssx? Know for sure it does. KU40 thanks man. Definately pricey stuff. Only reason I wanted 8 gauge was for my SSX taking 2500 watts...figured I'd go heavy since that's 2 and a half times more power I've ever ran. As for my brothers Q I'm lending him I'll go with some 12 gauge and call it a day though. Thanks again.

Go to your local welding supply store and pic up some 1/0 welding cable. She'll do ya real nice for not too much money, and you'll never what you might get besides, I got free terminals! lol Seriously though, the extra 30ish bucks will be worth your time, my voltage in my car went from 12.5 to 14.3 after I did the big 3, and I'm really glad I did; it's a must. Good post. I tried to add seperate items for a budget 4 gauge setup, and realized either way I'm spending over $40. So, I might as well do 1/0 gauge. Thanks for all the input everyone. Going with 1/0 gauge! And 8 gauge speaker wire since I probably didn't order enough for my setup so I'm just ganna get another 15 feet or so.

Also I'm ganna have some left over 8 gauge speaker wire. I'm pretty sure too big of speaker wire isn't a bad thing but just to make sure I figured I'd ask and make sure in case I need to go ahead and order some 12 gauge wire.

Interesting. To be honest I realized on how much of a budget my brother is and well, for what 1/0 gauge costs he just doesn't have even that little bit of extra money (still in highschool). That being the case I think I'm going to just hook him up with a nice 4 gauge kit considering what he's getting is already going to be far more than he imagined.... Btw I'm referring to my brothers setup, NCSU, which will be the Q with 1000 watts. The 2500 is going to my Treo SSX and I'm definately upgrading big 3 for that

I understand how important it is. That's why I'm doing it for my own 2500 watt setup. Was just wondering whether or not it would make a difference for only a 1000 watts.

You should notice the difference from that large of a jump. Its just how dramatic of an effect you are expecting. Its nothing like installing a h/o alty. It shouldnt be too large. I see. And I'm smart enough to know it's not going to do miracles but if it would really be worth it I suppose I'll go ahead and give that amp what it needed in the first place.

I noticed in my 2006 Ford F-150 STX that without Big 3 and what I'm assuming was 4 gauge power wire, my lights would dim outside and inside a bit. Worked fine otherwirse and yes that's with the same sub/amp. How much of an effect would a big 3 and 0 gauge power wire have on the output of the amp? Never measured in my previous setup but hypothetically speaking what could be a possible gain in power? If for 1000 watts it wouldn't be very noticeable I'd prefer to just do it the easy way, unless of course you think it would make a considerable difference.

Hooking my brother up with my 15" Fi Q (basic) and its being powered by a RD 1000.1D doing 1000 at 1 ohm. Looking to get an amp kit for him and I can't remember whether or not to use 4 gauge power wire or higher? Also, the amp has 30Ax3 fuses for a total of 90 amps so I'm assuming I need a 90 amp fuse for the power cable? Reason I'm asking is because the knukonceptz kit I was looking at comes with a 120 amp fuse. Just a few simple questions.

That's awesome! How much port area you got on that thing?

That's freakin insane. Crazy to me I guess cuz I've never seen anything more than a 2 sub setup. But any of those options seem rediculous. Must be deep into the car audio crack world I assume. If I had the choice though, I'd go with the 15's because 15's are the sexiest size in the sub world.

The Treo SSi is one beast of a sub with 750 watts, which IMO is underated needs more like 1000-1100.

What exactly are you looking for in a sub? I'm assuming since you want to go ported you want it to get loud...what about low? Do you want all out power or a little quality? You gotta give that kinda info before anyone can help.

Good info guys I really appreciate it. This system is really starting to add up. I'm at 1500 right now and that's after everything. Ganna sound nice. But thank you for the pics btw good stuff I always do better with a visual aid. As far as kukonceptz though I bought about $160 worth of amp installation accessories (kolossus 0 gauge and mkt rca's) and I've heard they make quality stuff. Discouraging to hear one of their products is so shitty though, cept every line has it's flaws.

So I'd put the ring terminals on the threaded studs and, crimp, them on. I'm guessing by that you mean just don't over torque them? Honestly this is how I imagined it would be in the first place till seeing so many systems with audio specific terminals...so yeah screw paying another 65 bucks I'm going this route! Thanks man saved me a bunch.

I just use marine grade battery posts from autozone. They are like $3.99 a pair. They have threaded studs on the top to accept ring terminals. They also tighten down with a wing nut so you don't have to have any tools to connect or disconnect anything once the terminals are on... so your saying it would be a waste of money to spend over 50 dollars on terminals when I could probably spend less than 20 at autozone? As long as quality isn't sacrificed I'm fine.

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery. Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate some help here I'm lost. Btw, running a RD 1750.1D at .5ohms doing 2500 to a 12" Treo SSX. Got all kolossus 0 gauge power and ground from kukonceptz.

To the guy up there talking about go big or get the fuck out, unfortunately I don't have endless money to spend on myself otherwise I would. I thought I'd made it clear the deciding factor was budget and being satisfied with the lower end. Yes, obviously I realize 2 15's would be ideal. All I'm asking from anyone experienced is whether or not I'm going to get this 12 and say "nice, but I should've got the 15's" To put it in perspective the nicest system Ive heard, personally, was 1 15" Treo sub. Until today I assumed it had to have been an SSX, and to my surprise found out it was merely an SSi 15 with 1100 watts to it....correct me if I'm wrong but wouldnt an SSX 12 beat down an SSi with a club and take a squat and shit on it?

No response? lol and btw not worried about the AA's voice coils that wouldnt be a problem. Only thing is going with the 15's would be at the least $450 more expensive... I think I'm going to be more than happy with the 12" SSX I just don't want to have that feeling where I avoid playing songs that play real low because it could sound better.

And for rca's? What about gain/other settings like filters? Wouldn't it be better to use the second amp as a slave basically creating one big amp? Then again, I've never done either.

Any idea if the RD 1000.1D can do it? If that's the case I'd be in good shape would just have to grab another one. If anyone knows of any good amps that are linkable let me know. Edit: Answered my own question the amp I have DOES have that capability which is awesome. Looks like I would just need another RD 1000.1D, if I were to go with the Avalanches. Anyone got any info on how EXACTLY to do this? I see you chain the amps through the rca's in turn sending the exact same signal to both, but what about power etc? Also, I imagine setting the gains perfectly to match would be difficult? What of all the options on the amps? why not keep it simple and run 1 amp to 1 sub? How would that work exactly?