lordaoshi

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sealed subs can take more power than ported subs, this is common knowledge,

Yes, it is a sealed box firig upwards, it sounds cleaner this way and i can use my trunk withot worring about damaging the subs from things shiftig in front oc the cones or anything like that see my gallery for more info

By ear, i have neer tested this with a meter, logic would say my loudest sounding would have less spl but like i said that all about perveived volume not spl, it might have a little somehig to do with my front door speakers i plan to test this out when i get aholf of a tl again

strangly mine hits hardest with the rear door windows both open down 3/4ths of the way (don't go down all the way) subs sealed firing up in a hatchback, second loudest is all windows closed except driver window.

Linertec BASSPRO-4000 Mono 4000w Amplifier Digital Class-D Mono Block Amplifier Stable into 1 ohm load workable PWM Mosfet power supply Input sensitivity (gain) control variable 24db octave crossover slope Variable Low Pass filter (Lpf) Variable bass boost Variable subsonic filter Multi-way protection circuitry (thermal / over current / speaker short / speaker DC Protection Tested voltage & THD : 14.4v & less than 1% THD Operating voltage : DC 10v - 15.5v Max Power : 4000w ( 1 x 4000w ) Rated power output RMS @ 1ohm : 1000w x 1 RMS @ 2ohm : 660w x 1 RMS @ 4ohm : 380w x 1 Signal to Noise Ratio : >90db Low pass crossover : 35hz - 300hz High Pass Crossover : 10hz - 60hz Bass boost : 0 - 18db Frequency Responce : 10hz - 350hz (+/-1db) THD @ RMS watts : <1% Channel seperation : 75db Efficiency @ 4ohm at 100hz : 86% Fuse rating : 30A x 3 Dimensions (W x H x L ) : 230 x 53 x 320 Input sensitivity : Variable 200mV to 6V (+/-5%) Power : DC 14.4v Negative ground Model: BASSPRO-4000 Manufactured by: Linertec has anyone heard of this amp, or used it? i know it isn't cea complient but it actually seems to list it's rms wattages, it costs R1,599.00 i believe that currency is the south african rand, and it converts to around 200 dollars i can get it for $60 3x30 amp fuses so my guess is that it can really do around 900 watts, think i should even bother? i was thinking of using it for a pair of type r's in one of my other cars jsut to have some beat http://www.soundslimited.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_47&products_id=1342

tuning into this project kinda late but still can't wait to see more, thumbs up for doin shit right the first time

The 3500 will be plenty for those Havocs. Just make sure they see clean power and set your gains right. Wiring below 1 Ohm for daily isn't the smartest thing in the world to do and it voids the warranty. I love the doors! Yea i know goin to .66 is bad usually i dont have any experience with the saz line so idk. But i run 2 havocs and they suck on over 1500 watts each every day Though i should probably point out that i am running sealed. Also it is going to put out a little less power at 1.33 than its rated 3500 i am sure it will still sound rediculous though even when i had mine sharing a single 1500 they got pretty beastly

dude those doors look incredible, and is 3500 gonna be enough for those havocs?, anyone ever checked the output teh 3500d at 1.33 ohms? or are you dropping to .66 ohms? i will be following this one,

And MORE efficient. idk about you but i actually HAVE two havocs in a sealed box and have a friend who got the same two subs and ran them ported, yes his is a really huge amount louder to the ear and YES MINE GOES DEEPER, YES THE RESPONSE IS ALOT FLATTER, AND YES I THINK THE HITS SOUND A SMIDGE CLEANER so if you want loud go ported, if you like youe music deep and clean, (or are limited by space like i was) go sealed, i really think you will be happier either way

AA havocs are BEAST, though i ran mine sealed so i really can't help you bro

yes, steve at FI wanted to go in a different direction than nick so they branched off and steve started his own brand Ascendant Audio, the companies are completely unrelated regarding owners and employees, but the technology is very very similar, if you look at an fi q vs an AA havoc you will find them very similar. both use teh same surrounds and spider structures, i have seen both and the build quality on both drivers was superb I currently run 2 Ascendant audio havoc 15's in a sealed enclosure, they slam pretty good, but they sound incredible both teh fi Q and the Ascendant audio Havoc are designed for sound quality first and loudness second, it does the first VERY well, and still manages to do a damn good job on the second. the havoc is alllmost as loud as the fi bl to the ear, but the bl shaves a few more db at the meter. The mayhem is ascendant audio's answer to the FI BTL, overall i would say they are an even match, though i would still choose Mayhem because to my ears they seem to hit the higher bass a little harder then the btl, but below 45 hz for both subs it is a dead heat. the SMD series is jsut insane, that's all i got to say about it, i don't have another sub to really compare it to that i have actually heard before, but if you want to ask me " is it louder then the btl?" or "does it beat the Mayhem?" the answer will be "yes, deffinately"

that amp will be perfect, and yes, they do make havocs in dual 1's as for runing idk my 15's are sealed and get as low as it gets

i have 2 havoc 15's each with it's own rockford fosgate T1500-1bd for power each amp puts out about 1850 watts, i don't think my gains are set at absolutely optimum, i could probably get a smidge more power if i grabbed an O-Scope Elliot at defiant audio (very knowledgeable, if you are looking for AA gear on the east coast between new jersey and virginia he's your guy) told me that 1900 is pretty much the absolute max that he would give it in a sealed enclosure like mine, and that your wall is probably about 1500-1600 for a ported enclosure i am guessing that the subs are getting maybe 16-1700 watts at full bore if that 3kw is killing my electrical, i drop to 13.4 when it is hammerin and i have the engine steady on 2k this is still in the safe range of course, i am jsut saying it is below the 14.4 where it was metered at 1870. only had these subs for about a 3 weeks now, and the first week i went easy for break in so i wouldnt say it is safe to do that for a year, but for right now it seems to take it jsut fine but remember I AM RUNNING IN A SEALED ENCLOSURE!

dude that is so clean looking!!! 5* for trunk layout design! i have 2 15's sealed and they sound incredible how low can you hit with those bad boys? and what tuning? mine are sealed and go low low low , like idk if i do have a bottom note because it just sounds like a helicopter in my trunk below 22 hz, literally, i ended up turning off my infrasonic becasue i did a full sweep and they never reached physical limits or distorted, or anything. i have heard these are insane ported though so i was thinkin about doin that, though i'll lose my back seat.. lol i can't decide bro, help me out?

thanks, i was hoping aroudnthere as well, it should still be a massive improvement over them running off the head unit

hey so i was digging through my basement the other day and i came across the amp i used for the sub in my very first car it was an audiobahn A2300E i had forgotten all about this thing, i tested it yesterday with my recently retired infinity reference 12 and it sounded pretty good i can't find any information on it anywhere, the only thing i have found is someone saying that "they believe it is 210 rms bridged at 4 ohms" this seems pretty possible since it only has 1 30 amp fuse i would of course be running 4 ohms per channel on 100w rms speakers, so this seems perfect for me, i know audiobahn isn't great, but i already own it so i might as well make use of it. what are some thoughts people have about me running this amp to power my alpine type-r components in my front doors? (they are running right off the head unit right now at 18 watts rms) Does anyone know the specs on this amp at all? i have searched high and low but nowhere says anywhere official as far as i can tell. i was barely old enough to drive when i got it and this was about 4 systems ago, so i have no idea at all, any info at all would be hugely appreciated. last question, is it alright to run speaker wires on teh right of the car next to my rca's? i own a subaru impreza outback sport and running down teh center is not an option. i was planning to use scoshe 16 gauge wire for speaker wire and my rca's are from rockford fosgate, am i jsut asking for trouble and noise by doing this?

they sold me my havoc 15 dual 1's for 400 each, and i run them sealed and they still slam

just to add some insight, i just got done installing 2 15 inch AA havocs each receiving ahout 1500 w rms from 2 rockford fosgate t1500-1bd's and i went SEALED (about 2.3 per sub) in my subaru impreza outback (hatchback) my friend josh got 2 identical subs ( we got a lower price by buying 4 of teh same sub, thanks defiant audio) josh went ported in the back of his jeep grand cherokee, 4.5 per sub tuned at 33 hz, each is receiving 1200 rms from a saz-1200d both have adequate electrical upgrades, both installs subs firing up (his ports are up too) my impreza has 2 layers of second skin for the roof and one layer on the hatch the cherokee is completely undeadened the sound quality on both builds is absolutely phenominal, the havocs are incredible no matter which route you go, but my sealed havocs sound a bit sharper whith quick bass hits, and it sounds really natural, there is still a slight strong spot around 32 -34 hz which i guess is the butter zone for those subs in my enclosure, and also probably the fs for my car, and where the subs are just loudest, but it isn't really incredibly noticeable unless you are playing sweeps to listen for them i haven't metered them yet, but they are damn loud. i haven't really been able to bottom teh subs out frequency wise in my install, i have done tone sweeps all over the low frequencies, and i can hit down to about 22hz before it just sounds like a helicopter) this thing gets DEEP i can play pretty much any chopped and screwed song out there, and about all slowed songs that stay in the audible range. i can also do "cracked window hairtricks" meainign i can do hairtricks with only the drivers window open half way, that being said, josh's install is way louder. there is an incredible difference in volume between the two vehicles the ported box really makes a difference, but i still prefer my own, because though his is louder his range seems really limited, the subs sound incredible from maybe 29-48hz but outside that range they become really lackluster. he also has a MASSIVE volume spike at around 32-38 hz, the volume feels like it more then doubles between 40 and 35, but below 30 there is incredibly steep roll off, he can't really hit anything accurately below 28 hz ( the low note in put on is still audible, but very sloppy) we are trying to find someone local with a TL so we can get some numbers up to back this up, i will be posting pics of my own car in the build logs section once it gets back from being detailed and reparied so i can get a really nice final completion photo i hope it isn't too late for this info to be helpful

that was the plan, the rear speakers are just to balance out the sound because all i have in the back is subs and if there isn't SOMETHING back there it feels really unnatural putting the alpines on the amp and the rears on the head unit

thank you, i was hoping that was all i had to do but everywhere i read just danced around the actual wiring of using only 2 channels

bump

okay so i have done a search on this all over, and i did find one post about someone who only used the front channels and then connects the rear channels directly, but kept the fader set to the front, but this just sounds like a bad idea what i want to do is amp my front speakers (alpine type r components), but leave my rear speakers on the head unit's power (alpine sps-400's) i just bought a rockford fosgate t400-2 off a friend on the cheap so i was planning to use that (type r's with only 17 watts have absolutely zero bass) head unit is sony-gt240 ( i know sony isn't that great, but the sound quality is just as good to me as it is on some friends alpines and pioneer head units. so it is good enough for me.) how do i wire the head unit to only use 2 channels? do i just not connect the speakers off the channels i don't want? completing the circuit seems counter intuitive because i assume that would fry the head unit any help at all would be greatly appreciated whether it be links or personal experiences

has anyone heard the ascendant audio havoc in a sealed enclosure? i am getting 2 aa havoc 15's (d2) in a sealed enclosure with roughly 2.4 ft^3 per sub after all displacements each will have it's own rf t1500-1bd they will be firing upwards in my subaru impreza outback sport (hatchback) rewound 160 amp alt and 3 xspower d5100 batts second skin on hatch, roof, and trunk floor i have already ordered them from defiant audio and the suspense is killing me coming up from 2 ported infinity reference 1252w's ( one has a cracked cone and sounds terrible) on a single t1500-1bd any guesses on what kinda tl scores i could get with these? i was hoping for at least 140 while still maintaining good sound quality,