RXdriver11

I think the part I bolded in red was a typo? Like helotaxi said, the subwoofer being wired in series won't have anything at all to do with it being underpowered. And the difference between the amplifier's 2ohm power output and 1ohm power output is completely negligible and inaudible. Also as helotaxi pointed out, you'll actually get slightly better performance out of each subwoofer if you purchase a 2nd dual 1ohm BL and run 2 subwoofers. In theory, adding a 2nd driver without increasing power would yield a 3db gain (keeping the alignment the same as well).....but you are probably experiencing fairly signficiant power compression with 1800w on a single driver. Adding a second will decrease the power to each subwoofer which will decrease power compression, which is a good thing. It would be possible for you to actually increase peak output by more than 3db due to the decrease in power compression, which robs the driver of output for a given amount of power input. that wasnt a typo I was just thinking if i got a different sub and ran it solo but @ 1ohm i would have a noticeable increase but since i wouldnt notice the difference thats out.. So are you saying that my current setup my sub is seeing 1800w, 900 each coil (well 869.5 each coil to be exact )?

dude thanks for putting up with my stupidity.. i think i figured it out in idiot terms. I think my best bang for the buck would be to get another single BL (dual 2) and wire that puppy parallel which would show a 1ohm to the amp. now just to be sure that i am learning if i were to do that setup would that sub see the 1800w each coil or 900 each coil (wired parallel)? oh yeah the birth sheet says 1153 @ 4 ohm, 1739 @ 2 ohm, and 1890 @ 1 ohm BTW the only reason im asking is because i want to push that thing to the limits (gained down a little of course). right now my current BL (10" dual 1 in series) is in 1.3 cubes with 15sq in port area and sounds pretty good.. but I want great. i want to get all out of it that i can and it seems like it is currently being underpowered with the series configuration. so i figured i could purchase 1 more dual 1 add those 2 together and wire it parallel for a total 1ohm and still get close to full output from my amp.. just looking at what my available options are..

ok im even more confused. I read this site often trying to understand thing better but it always confuses me, that why i come to the forums.. its rms @ 2ohm is just under 1800w (i used whole number for simplicity) and the gains are set with an O scope..

If your current sub is wired to 2ohm, then it's not getting 1800w, it would be receiving half of that. And yes, if you wire two subs of the same impedance together they will each receive half of the power. so what you are saying is that its receiving the 1800 total (900 each voice coil)?? No, your current sub is not. It is receiving 900w (based on your 1800w figure), with each voice coil receiving half of that. So 450w to each voice coil, 900w total to the sub. When you get a 2nd sub and wire to 1ohm, then each subwoofer will receive 900w, 1800w total to the pair. The amplifier outputs power based on the final impedance of the connected load. 2ohm final load (two 1ohm coils in series) equals 2ohm power output (around 900w @ 2ohm based on 1800w @ 1ohm). That power is then divided equally to each individual load (in this case with 1 subwoofer, each voice coil, since each voice coil is the same impedance). so @ 2 ohm my sub is only receiving 25% of the rms from the amp?

If your current sub is wired to 2ohm, then it's not getting 1800w, it would be receiving half of that. And yes, if you wire two subs of the same impedance together they will each receive half of the power. so what you are saying is that its receiving the 1800 total (900 each voice coil)??

First off happy holidays to you guys. and i appreciate all of the help and knowledge you guys are teaching the inexperienced like myself.. ok.. so right now im running 1 10" Fi Bl (dual 1 ohm) in series to a RF 1500bd cp @ 2 ohms. So its getting close to 1800w (per the birth sheet) so if i decided to add a second and wire it series/parallel down to 1 ohm does that mean that the birth sheet 1800 something w that the amp gives at 1 ohm will be divided equally? (so each sub will get 1800 something divided by 2)

ok.. im a little bit more confused. I need a little bit more dumb down explanation.

That clears some things up for me.. and helps me in deciding my options for a frontstage amp too.

Current follows the path of least resistance, so if impedance is the same, power is divided equally So.... for sake of convo does that mean that 10 speakers (4 ohm) wired together to 1 1000W (@ 4ohm) amp will see 100w per speaker?

I know this is an old post but if anyone can explain the power that each speaker will see in the example from SM's tahoe. I understand that many speakers can be hooked up to one amp if the ohm's are stable but how do you figure the power??

"Care of XS Power 12-volt AGM Battery 1) Charge voltage is not to exceed 14.4 total for extended periods of time (5 min. max)*" Is this referring to the initial charge or the constant charging from the alt?

And where could I find tones from 20 to 60? All I find are 20 30 35 40 and so on..

So then I should be using a sweep instead of a single tone, and just watch to see that it dont clip the entire sweep?

Greetings out there. I have read many write ups and seen many videos about using test tones to set your amp gains with an o-scope. My question is when setting bass amp gains does it matter if you use a 40Hz tone over a 50Hz tone? Each topic on this has used a different tone but never told why. For those who dont know.. yes I am a so please inform me if there is a difference. Thanks..

thanks bro i'll give em a call on monday..

I thought it was that so I removed the cover plate and tested it. It clearly is the red thermal light on that thing (the power light is blue). Ive tried every trouble shoot I could think of and nothing..

Nope. its not running hot or cutting out. And that thing pounds like hell. I didnt think it would be a big problem because its brand new but I am watching it, and looking for some input from the forms..

I have a RF T1500-1BDCP that once it is powered up its thermal light is lit very dim. The amp still delivers sound (and tons of it) and the protect light does not come on. It does this once the amp has power ground and accessory wires connected and radio is turned on. The system has runs of 0gauge KunKoncepts (+ and -), big 3 0gauge, optimum red top up front. Alt is 110 amp soon to be upgraded. I tested the wiring with an old P300-1 and it didn't have the thermal light show. I checked ground, and voltage and both were good. Anybody ever seen this happen? Even though the rest of the system wasn't connected yet it is pushing 1 FI BL 10" (fully loaded) running at 2 ohm. let me in on your input..

I dont want to build it because i might screw it up. I have a little knowledge of a lot of things and enclosure building is not one of them. I would like to get a ported box about 1.3 cu.ft. tuned to 34Hz. Also about 22" wide 12" tall and what ever the rest need to be to get the cu.ft. im looking for. Its going into a 99 Lexus Rx and im trying to save as much trunk space as possible. I will be replacing my 10" RF P3 shallow with a 10" Fi Bl with some upgrades. Will be running a T1500-1bdCP. I have already done a big 3 with 0 gauge (with knukonceptz so its almost 2/0 gauge) planning for my upgrade. To Argentaudio what would i be looking at price wise? And does anybody have a great calculator to use to help me feel confident enough to try it myself? Thank you guys for your input and keep it coming?

I am in the process of upgrading my sub to one 10" Fi Bl are looking to have an enclosure built. Does anyone out there know of a good place to go in the Los Angeles, Orange County area to have a quality box built to mfg specs?