s_carter

It looks like the Q will dig deeper than the SSD will, but its a pretty marginal difference IMO. if you can spare the space, I would say 10 cubes is a great box size for HT use, tuned to 20-22 hertz or so. If you have google sketchup, I can send you a design that will work excellently for an 18" Q or SSD in a HT setup...

I'm surprised to see you trollin here, FOH! Merry Christmas!

yeah if those speakers are 8 ohms, then you are not going to see a lot of power out of that amp due to impedance rise. but thats awesome to hear, when is your sub due in?

they are hella expensive if you are looking for anything over 1000 watts. i dont have money for that, but i would buy a pro audio amp over a plate amp any day. plate amps are garbage if you ask me... I was actually thinking of getting another 2500 and strapping them together.

You wont regret it....

Thanks for the heads up! I will check it out and see if he can help me out with this...

Throw one of these pics up on your FB page for me, would you? Your pick.

My X12's do wonderfully in an optimal sealed box at 1.25 cubes. In the same size box, but ported, and tuned to 26 hertz, they get down a bit lower. You can tune them to whatever frequency you like, 32 is just what most people tune a ported design to.

You know I really like my new pair of X12's, too. They are rockin subs! They look weeny compared to the twins though.

Yeah, yeah, I don't have a car right now. But you might enjoy what I get to play with on a daily basis.

The DTR series of amps aren't the best from what I have heard. But, if they are anything like my Rubicon 2500, then everything I hear isn't true. A lot of people be raggin' on the new Rubies, but I love the hell outta mine! 3600 watts RMS for less than 400 dollars? I can't say no to that. The SQ of my amp is epic too. Puts a lot of other amps I have tried with the twins to shame in that department. As for enclosure specs, keep it within Fi's recommended numbers, and it should do real nicely.

The difference will be noticeable on the termlab. and then it would probably only be tenths at the most.

Thats why I love my SSD's- they sound great at any volume or with any type of music. They murder the low notes tuned to 26. Though I have noticed that different amps affect that slightly.

The sub itself has nothing to do with the response, its all in your box design and airspace and tuning.

So far I haven't had any luck on finding a SM or schematics for it, I guess this since this amp is a 2010 model, they haven't released them yet... Which is why I am asking over here, I'm pretty certain that if I had a block diagram, I could figure it out by looking it over.

I'm not looking for more power, just want my SSF gone! I play around with a lot of subsonic tracks, and recordings, and I hate being limited to only half the frequencies that are there.

Julian, I have a 300 dollar soldering station with hot air rework, as well as plenty of thermal paste, as I said, I repair amps on a daily basis. So taking it all apart does not scare me in the least... Bass- this is why I would like to get more output below 10 hertz..... I love subsonics, what can I say?

I realize that.

I could, but I dont have the cash to get an EQ that digs that low. I have been trying to find one though. They sell for well over 300 bucks new for a good one like a Bassis...

Well, just got these tracks mixed up for me by Steve Bowers, and I felt like testing the low end of my system out! Little bit different that what your used to seeing, I'm sure. My amp is currently limited to 10 hertz SSF, but I am working on getting that changed! Enjoy guys! The track with the floor trick is mixed at 5, 10, and 42 hertz. Super low stuff: I am going to see if I can get a few more mixed up and try to go for 12-24-36-48 hertz, since 48 hertz is my response peak. I would really like to get a Bassis or similar EQ in the future to help tune it in better...

looks good man, I want a pair of the XCON 18's myself.

Yeah, that is a good point, I use sound deadener or acoustical fiberglass for vented boxes, for some reason I was thinking of a sealed box. Check this company out, they have all kind of cool stuff over here.

Most likely due to the fact that the subs are mass marketed, they simply cant tell the consumers that they need a port that has 36 inches of area, and needs to be 3 feet long to achieve a decent tune. Besides, most people dont even realize what port compression and air velocity means. 99% of people buying the drivers will not realize what a properly tuned enclosure should sound like, because they are used to shitty prefab designs with next to no port area and decent airspace...

I really hate to modify my amp, since it is still under warranty, but I hate having it 10 hertz SSF limited more. I haven't been able to find any service manuals or schematics for it, yet, and I have been looking. I would like to be able to keep the SSF, but have it so that with the pot turned all the way counter clockwise, its disabled, instead of set to 10 hertz. Here are the pics of the board. The SSF pot is the second to the left. Strange, the board says 15hz-40hz next to the pot, yet the cover, manual and specs says 10. Most likely since the boards are used in many other amps as well. The pots are B20K, except for the SSF and LP, which are B50K's. Thanks for the help and your time, bud!

I have a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.2500D, and would like to either remove/disable the SSF circuit, or modify the SSF pot so that I can simply turn it off that way. I haven't looked at the resistance of the SSF pot yet, but could I change it out with a different value of pot to make it so that it is disabled at its lowest setting, instead of the standard 10-40 hertz? I have some experience in repairing and modifying amps, and power supplies and such, but I never have encountered something like this, yet.