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whatnow275

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Everything posted by whatnow275

  1. I think this new setup is too peaky...i just sealed off the trunk a little with some old clothes and will do more soon to test it...but it isn't a whole lot louder with the trunk open and playing than with the trunk closed. How does firing the subs into the side of the car sound? will i lose/gain much sq or spl vs. rear firing?
  2. No I did not switch boxes when I switched orientation. The whole point of all of this is to reclaim trunk space, and if I went back to the old box sideways id get more trunk space
  3. So if I seal the trunk and all the big holes in the rear deck will I reclaim most of my upper and lower bass? I like having them firing forward, and the extra trunk space is nice, but it isn't worth the cancellation. Would a better alternative be to go back to my prefab box and fire them into the side of the trunk?
  4. you will need to retune the subs to the new position...when they where firing in to the trunk it was actting like a bandpass and giving you a bass boost so try that and see what do you mean "retune" the subs?
  5. So fire the subs into the side of the car instead? I was actually considering doing this with my old box
  6. Only setting was making the LPF slightly higher...The subs are still moving as much as they used to...its just they don't make much sound on certain notes, and make a ton on other notes...
  7. Hey, I have 2 kicker cvx 12's in a custom ported box that I just recently switched to fire into the cabin rather than towards the back of the trunk. In doing so, it boosted what sounds like the middle frequencies, but it killed off the super low frequencies and the higher frequencies. The reason I switched the box orientation is to reclaim some trunk space, which it did do. Now I am wondering if there is anything I can do to get those frequencies back, and make the bass not sound as "hollow" on certain notes. The trunk is not sealed off, although the box doesn't leave much space between itself and the opening into the trunk. Any help is appreciated!
  8. Thanks for all of the input guys. I will probably get a custom box made for the cvx's and run with that. Oh and another thing...are subs suppossed to be significantly louder when it is warm out? or does that mean the suspension in mine still needs to loosen up
  9. How big of a difference would a custom box do for my subs? right now i have a prefab with two separate chambers that are about a cubic foot each. To get the nightshade I would need to sell my kickers
  10. I would use a prefab with they type r's due to budget reasons. It's in a 4th gen ford taurus, I have a 250amp H/O alternator w/ the big three done and 4 guage to the back (will upgrade to 1/0). I have an optima redtop up front and a shuriken bt-35 in the back. I'm using a powerbass asa 1500.1Dx at .5 ohms. I want to be significantly louder than I am right now, but also get that deep bass that makes it hard to breathe
  11. I currently have 2 kicker cvx 12" subs in a crappy prefab box and I'm looking to get louder and lower (move a lot more air). I cannot decide between getting a custom box for my subs tuned to the low 30s, or getting 2 type r 15's, or one nightshade 15. which would give me the best results? the type r subs would have to be in a prefab box
  12. Yeah. is power output a linear function of voltage?
  13. What could be wrong? The stock alternator is rated at 130 amps, but the wires under the hood are thin (and i cannot upgrade them without serious engine work), and i'm running the amp at .7 or.8 ohms
  14. yeah i saw that, i was just wondering if going to the fosgates will get me louder. it seems weird that my amp never gets hot, yet it claims to make 1.5krms
  15. so going to either of those rockford amps is not going to have a noticeable difference? and another thing. . . my voltage drops to high 10's with an optima up front and a shuriken in the back
  16. it would be either the regular t1500 or the t1000-bdcp. would i be any louder switching to either, and if so which would be loudest overall Oh ok then i would have to say not worth the swap in this case the difference would be next to none and not worth the extra money. Only advantage the fosgate would have over the pb in this case would probably be a tad better efficiency. so you think my pb makes rated?
  17. I want to switch amps because I'm not sure how close to rated the powerbass amp makes. The local PB dealer says they don't make near rated (and he doesnt sell pb ams), but yet i blew away a kid on an alpine mrp-m1000 and it's never gotten hot. My box is 1.25 or 1.5 cu ft per chamber, its shitty and im going custom soon
  18. it would be either the regular t1500 or the t1000-bdcp. would i be any louder switching to either, and if so which would be loudest overall
  19. So the constant power makes that much difference? If so the 1000 would be better because it's easier on the electrical right?
  20. I currently have a PowerBass ASA 1500.1Dx amplifier and am thinking about upgrading to a Rockford Fosgate amplifier. I am running two kicker CVX 12's and am trying to decide between the T1000-1bdcp and the T1500-1bd. How much difference does "constant power" make? which one would run my subs with more spl?
  21. So them should I just get the 4 inch coil with that amp? What about flat wind. . . How much more spl is that? And what do you guys think of that amp
  22. I currently have two kicker CVX 12" subs running off a powerbass asa 1500.1Dx, which is 1.5krms at 1 ohm. I want to go to a fi bl 15 fully loaded, but i dont want it to be much quieter than my cvx's. Which do you guys think would be better in terms of SQ, SPL, and just generallly shaking the car? Also, what do you guys think of the amp? everyone online says they make rated power, but a local dealer in town says it makes no where near rated.
  23. check out kenwood's excelon series. they are relatively inexpensive but have advanced features (LPF/HPF, 4v preamps, speaker size adjustments, etc)
  24. you could try wiring the power cable running to the batt and amp directly onto the alternator for a little better performance. I need to do something of the sort, when i was idling i made my volts dropped so low that my system turned off
  25. alright sweet. is going from my crappy prefab to a custom built for the subs going to be a night and day difference? or will it just hit noticeably lower? will it be louder?

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