Cant Get Enough

I have a batt bank, 2 hc2400's and a hc1800 Bought a 200 amp power bastard alt that is a direct fit for my 02 taurus It spiked to 16+ volts when i hit the gas lights got real bright then the voltage regulator kicked in and it settled back to 14.5 v. Sent ot back they put in a new regulator same problem. Bought a HO rebuild kit for my stock alt, same problem. Went to a local mechanic and he said there is no way to solve the slow regulator issue I'll buy a mechman if they can solve this issue. I also need a direct fit due to space restraints Why is my HO alt having these issues.

THE amp wasn't hot either barely warm my old amp would get down right hot

I actually upgraded from the T6002 so I could lower the gain and have less stress on the amp

I have the punch eq but I wasn't using it.

I used a sine wave at 60 hz to set the gain on amp. Head unit deh-p7200hd 4volt output to amp with monster rca's

My alt charges at 14.4 Have a batt bank, and stays above 13v whith hard bass hits. After a while my subs loose "thump" I still have some bass I'll turn the volume down and it comes right back. I have my gain set to 7 at 28 volts well below max output. Brand new T1000-4ad running two P3's.

Yes I mean ab and the new ad amps are suppose to solve sound quality issues as with a straight d or bd amp. I have a recording studio and over the years I've became very picky when it comes to clarity.

a lot of people develope engine noise when unplugging rca's when power is to the headunit blowing the pico fuse. Did you follow existing grounds for the big three or create new grounding points.

I'll only use class A amps even for subs and when the T1000-4ad came out it had enoughpower for my P3's. Replacing my T600-2 even though it had a birthsheet if 787 I had to drive it hard. It only went into thermal protect 4 times that was too much for me. I personally think class d and bd amps sound awful

I agree but I'm in Va

meter ? math calculation ?

I have 2 Kenetic HC 2400 and one HC 1800 and my subs in temps around 20 degrees barely move and takes 15 min or so to soften up and produce normal bass output

I'm changing my T600-2 running 2 P3's to a T1000_4ad. Unfortunately I have to bridge them seperately and must use two different gain controls. I wish it had a master, slave control but there independant and want to know how to balance the gain between the two subs. I don't want one sub hitting harder than the other.

I'm gonna be a while outside, "I'll be back"

what about the amp what should they read

Can I check the ohms on the speakers as well and what should they read and why

Little more specific please

Loads side, speaker out? sound on or off , how to ?

I've got P3's no solder connections but maybe the springs vibrated the wire out I.ll go check and get back in a little bit. He's speaking of the leads soldered to the driver. Don't worry about your spring terminals. There will never be enough vibration for them to loosen. tinsel leads to the spider?

big three, batt bank of kenetics, RF T6002 birth sheet 788 to 2 P3's seriesed then paralleled and bridged at 4 Ohms

I've got P3's no solder connections but maybe the springs vibrated the wire out I.ll go check and get back in a little bit.

I got three kinetic batts that reach the amp at 14.7v

i wish that was it but it's the subs and I noticed the highs were way to loud for the amount of bass and certain things that vibrated, don't anymore. also the bass will increase the longer the amp is on

amp isn't as loud as when first got it. any ideas

I'm currently using a RF T600-4 to run my RF T1652-S door and rear deck speakers. I've started to notice when turning on my radio after the car has set for a while the front left speaker doesn't turn on until I turn the volume up a bit. Once it kicks on I can run forever at low or high volumes without it cutting out. Just wondering if anyone knows the internals in a amp that could cause this.