Cant Get Enough

Being a recording "engineer" during mixdown bass information is held within the stereo spectrum in both left and right channels. Example a chorused bass is actually two different bass frequencies panned in the spectrum and if your only using one side your missing the other side, also double kick are sometimes panned apart and guitars are often panned left and right. So if you are not running your bass in stereo they must be summed in mono at your head unit or your amplifier. Without this action being performed your actually only hearing half or one side of the spectrum resulting in bass loss. This is the reason engineers always will have subs in stereo for mixdown unless they are mixing down to 5.1 and that's typical for cinema only, not "car audio"

I agree completely. I started by using the amp formula to determine total amps, upgraded all wires got a high output alternator and kenetiik HC1800 and had plenty of amps but still got dimming and after a second higher quality alt I still had dimming then I discovered my battery buldging and was pissed. Then after asking every installer in NoVA I came across one who told me that it's the car electrical system and the inconsistancies of the alternators especially the voltage regulator that was the problem. Even though I had "heavy duty" regulator with the high output they are simply not accurate enough to controll the voltage consistantly. In fact your car was designed to perform best with the factory alt and regulator and he only uses the amp hour method, plus 1000, instead of total amps for formulating the size of battery bank needed. After he calculated my car and amplifier he had me leave in the upgraded wire put my old battery back in (something to do with current draw away from the car) stock alternator back in and then install a battery bank between the stock battery and the amplifiers (HC2400). I now have absolutly no dimming, my amps run cooler, thermo protect hasn't kicked in since and highs are cleaner and bass hits harder I'm finally satisfied.

Instrument jack on the bass amp isn't designed to handle straight sound coming from a stereo which is amplifying the signal to levels that will damage your amp. I have a studio and learned from experience a plate amp or rack amp is your best bet. RCA out from stereo to 1/4 inch rack amp input or what ever style input your plate amp requires.

Every time I get something heavy through USPS or UPS It's packaging is beat to hell. Every time I get a Fed Ex package it's perfect.

Hey didn't someone say they were gonna build one and let us know how it went. Inquiring Minds Want To Know?

lol He doesn't know the company from adam but said," the design was good with good components."

No higher end, high output alternator manufacturers make a alt to fit my car even trying to retrofit isn't possible. I do have a 220 from powerbastards that utilizes a stock casing and after a month my battery light started coming on. But I think I have some good news. After taking it to a specialist It does 220 like PB says but the voltage regulator went bad but everything else is working fine and he'll replace the regulator and says there shouldn't be a problem anymore in fact the build (constuction) of the alt was good even the ratio of windings (voltage) vs diameter (current/amps) was ideal. The one issue with the regulator was amp draw between the rotor and what the regulator is rated at but he'll make sure it's high enough but the PowerBastards was a high current motorcraft (quality) and that shouldn't have been an issue saying it's was probaby just a faulty regulator which does happen. In a month I'll let you guys know how it's holding up. Other than VR he says powerbastards alt was "good quality"

But what do they do different to make theirs better. I have my factory alt and want to rebuild it the best I can Idle, amps, volts etc. etc. etc

I guess my question is why are one companies parts better than another one? Most claim they are using heavy duty parts.

As a carpenters son I was taught to glue the joint all the way then predrill and screw one screw at a time. If you try to predrill all the holes at once they can shift and by the time you put your last screws in, the wood could bind and crack. Always screw with wet glue and when the glue oozes out you know it's drawn and since the glue hasn't binded yet it will dry in it's proper place making a much stronger joint. Most likely it will be air tight and you'll only need silicone for reassurance.

I would like to know what makes a alternaor company good verses a crappy one? What makes it charge at 14.4, what determines amps at idle, etc etc. etc.? Basically the innerworkings of a alternator. Would a rebuild kit be better?

like grounds need to be short is there a certain length that is best for antennas the tuner in the trunk is already bypassed but the antenna hook up is in the trunk so I have to extend the cable from my head unit to the trunk to hook the antenna up

Yes, guy with the porn picture!

2002

Any installers have issues with Ford Taurus signal. With my Taurus, the tuner is actually in the trunk and where you change stations is just a control surface I had good reception until I installed a aftermarket head unit and my dash kit came with a 20 foot anntenna extension to reach the trunk and two head units and HD radio later the radio is basically unusable. Is there anyway to solve this. please help

If you want massive midbass then bandpass a 10 or 12 to your midbass frequencies, that will be the only way to push enough air to get the midbass "you want"

I agree

I'm from N Va the PWC and go up to PA border every year just a 2.5 hour trip. My neighborhood knows it and I usually have a two hour show and the police never show I'm backed up to quantico and I think they can't dishtinguish between the base and mine Ha Ha

You'll have to get a better or flatter response speaker that'll handle a fuller range

Depends on the frequency response on your tweeter snd your midbass driver If your using a dedicated 8 I wouldn't go higher than neccessary the higher you go the more directional the speaker becomes thats why door speakers generally handle midbass so it's placed in the stereo image, front, rear, left, right so the listener is unable to dicern direction thats basically what a bandpass does I have recording Eq's that'll bandpass with one unit I never done it in a car though but you could use a bass blocker at like 60 Hz and set your LP at your desired frequency I guess ill get a lil more specific then.... these peerless midbasses crossed from 80hz to about 400hz Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm from Madisound then these seas prestige tweet crossed at 3khz SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter from Madisound what speaker is filling in the gap between 400 Hz and 3 Khz? Thanks for the link I was looking for a site that sold 2" fullrange so I can put a center channel in my AC vents.

what state are you in and what kind of sucky firework restrictions are there. I'll be once again sneaking the good stuff. Love those canisters and mortars. Any one live in Pennsylvania, I couldn't believe they were kicking there own residents out of the store. You can live there but not be able to buy all those great fireworks you got up there.

Depends on the frequency response on your tweeter snd your midbass driver If your using a dedicated 8 I wouldn't go higher than neccessary the higher you go the more directional the speaker becomes thats why door speakers generally handle midbass so it's placed in the stereo image, front, rear, left, right so the listener is unable to dicern direction thats basically what a bandpass does I have recording Eq's that'll bandpass with one unit I never done it in a car though but you could use a bass blocker at like 60 Hz and set your LP at your desired frequency

HP will allow the speaker to see 150 HZ and up to the limit of your amp 15 Khz,18 Khz 20 Khz,etc, etc etc whatever your amp goes to. For example with slopes you'll will be passing frequencies past the cutoff point but will be decreasing at a set rate becoming less audible as you go "down the slope"

There is a specific type of filter that is called a "shelf", and it is different than a standard HPF or LPF. I would be seriously surprised if your HU included an actual shelf filter. In fact I'd be very interested in know what HU that was as I don't know of any, and very few car audio processors actually have shelving capabilities. The graph of a standard HPF or LPF look like a gently rolling hill; a shelf filter looks like, well, a shelf (hence the name). DEH-P7200HD also a shelf will have a slope just depends how it's programmed soft knee or hard knee octave (Q) and decibals are all contributing factors. LPF and HPF are shelving filters they are basically true curve EQ's that turn down to "infinity" Also if you have a right angle shelf or cutoff point it will sound unatural and unpleasent, slopes are a must with shelves Since I have a recording and mixing backgroud been doing it for 7 years narrow definitions are a must This is where my understanding comes from.

I can't say I've ever seen a broadly accepted definition for "midbass". Just a simple google search for the definition of midbass results in 3 different frequency ranges from 3 different sources. The definition of "midbass" is going to vary depending on the source. There's no authority, that I'm aware of, that can or has defined the "official" range of frequencies that encompasses "midbass". Everyone's opinion and definition will vary. And just an FYI to others, when most people on the forums are discussing "midbass", as well as most manufacturers in our hobby, they are not talking about such a narrowly defined range. Here are the google search results; Regardless, our identification of sound and localization cues has little to do with what frequency range we arbitrarily define as being "midbass", and everything to do with the wavelength of the frequencies in relation to the dimensions of our head and the physiology of human hearing. If the slope of the crossover is decently steep, a subwoofer with a crossover point of 250hz should be pretty well within the realm of what I described above. That said, I wouldn't recommend a 250hz crossover point for a subwoofer for a number of other reasons. Without hearing the system, there are a number of reasons why the subwoofer might be obviously identifiable as being "behind" you. First would be any rattles/buzzing/humming/etc that may be coming from panels behind the listener. Second would be any mechanical noises that subwoofer might be producing. Third would be tactile sensations....for example, feeling the vibration of the back of the seat. That's a quick but certainly not comprehensive list of a few reasons. You're right but I picked the average out of my six text books