Cant Get Enough

Boosts treble and bass to restore the cutoffs mu DEH-P7200HD has the same feature works best on older MP3's the newer files have more bytes increasing resolution not requiring thus function be careful you'll overheat an amp quick if used for uncompressed cd's and possibly blow speakers. I personally like wave files and will only use CD's

Oooooh can you remove the horn and or tweet or is that why your using the PA speaker. It's not gonna blend well.

I use the crossovers supplied for the speakers for controlling the frequencies between the 6.5's and the tweets then my HU has a high pass shelf which I set at 80 Hz cause 55 Hz for the passive is a little too low for the gain level I wan't to set with my T6004 that I set too all pass but if you dont have an HU with a shelf you could use the amps crossover. Sound dampening will always make things better (not crucial though). Above 150 to about 500 hz is the cloudy/muddy range in the spectrum which I learned while studying recording but also makes the mix fat or thick not enough will make your music sound thin fine line between too much and not enough. If you've ever noticed certain CD's make you want to turn the treble up or down this is usually cause of a engineer's bad mix in this frequency range. here's from one of my books highs = above 3.5 Khz mids= between 250 Hz and 3.5 Khz Lows= below 250 Hz and these are divided into 8 subcatagories ( sub bass "rumble" = below 60 Hz ) ( bass "thump"=60 to 120 Hz ) ( mid bass "roundness"= 120 to 150 Hz) ( high bass "fullness or muddiness"= 150to 250Hz) (lower midrange "the Oohzone" = 250 Hz to 1.5 Khz) ( upper midrange "projected"= 1.5 to 3.5 Khz ) (highs "presence or piercing""= 3.5 to 6 Khz) ( high highs "brilliance or searing"= above 6 Khz)

Techniqually midbass lies between 120 and 150 Hz your talking about bass frequencies that resonate your chest cavity (75 Hz)

reduces inductance and outside interference . Leave em twisted.

Your hearing the direction of the subs becauseyour crossed over too high, delving into the cloudy frequencies which actually cover the midbass your speakers are producing. I have a recording studio and must clean between 150 to 400 Hz (cut too much and your sound can become thin) on most if not all bass instruments to allow the mid and sub bass to envelope the listener not to distinguish direction. Providing clean rich bass. I have T1652-s front, T154's rear on a T6004 and get excellent results with all the midbass I nedd supplemented with a pair of P3's on a T6002 providing all missing sub frequencies. I also along with my passive crossover on the T1652-s I shelve them at 80 Hz On another note bass frequencies are between 25 to 300 Hz wher the midbass lies between 120 and 150 Hz so I wouldn't set a subwoofer crossover any higher than 150 Hz and I personally set mine at 100 Hz leaving my 6.5 to handle the rest but if you really want lo add, try a single 8" and cross it over cutting 60 Hz and lower and 150 Hz higher and set the gain too fill out the midbass but not too much so you dont muddy the overall sound

Before I start going through the troubleshooting list since there is noise with the radio turned off I was thinking there might be a quicker answer. Here goes, my brother had his system installed a couple of years ago in his VW "something" I think jetta but it worked fine the whole time but a week ago all of a sudden there was noise with the radio turned on or off using the turn signal, winsheild wipers, rpm, pretty much anything electrical coming through the speakers with radio on or off like Lelu please help

Who will take up this challenge so I don't have to experiment. I'm just too lazy! Maybe a car with fold down seats "direct firing" It's designed to hit the hardest pointed right at you.

My DEH-P7200HD already has a sub on and off built in.

Thanks for the replies I installed my first system in 92 when a pair of 300 watt RMS subs was a lot. And alternators weren't an issue. Hell I still owm two PPI power series amps one a 2x75 RMS wich is closer to 2x125 RMS and a 2x50 wich is about 2x75+ and a Carver 2090mi and a pair of Kicker Stillwater Designs 150 4 Ohm 12's. They still sounded and hit great before I "upgraded". I still think since the spider and foam surround is softer than newer sub designs they could move almost as much air as some of the higher watt subs on the market these days.

I'll tell you what I am sick of the increasing amount of little dimples in my roof cause of roof flex. It's not very much since dynamat and the way I have my trunk/seat ported most of the bass hits my back.

So I'm not the only one. I feel a little better but I wish a mechanic could go in and manually set idle RPM in gear. you can... but then when you put your tranny into gear it slams into gear because the idel is to high...... so the way to get around that is to have a stout battery bank... your voltage will still dip but you will have amps stored How many and what kind?

Big three done with 1/0 and have the Kinetic HC1800 with seperate 4 guage runs to a Rockford T6002 (789 RMS at 14.4) and a Rockford T6004 (792 RMS at 14.4) and my alt charges at 14.38V with 1.5 foot grounds severly sanded metal and stinger 4 gauge crimp terminals. You think it's better to combine grounds in a dual 4 gauge terminal block. I've heard it's better to do that.

I found bass hits your head just right with a sunroof open.

So I'm not the only one. I feel a little better but I wish a mechanic could go in and manually set idle RPM in gear.

It doesn't shut off just that when I engage the gear in drive and I'm stopped my car automatically drops the RPM to 550 dropping the alt to 68 amp. Out of gear at Idle my RPM are 900 with at least a 100 amp output and since I got the bolt on alt for my car not the fitzall he said a little over 800 would give me 100 amps.

Yeah that's what I'm talkin about. You think it's not utilized because people can't believe what an eight or a ten can do in one of these.

So my knew 220 anp alternator came in I cant fully test it cause Auto Zones tester only goes up to 100 amps but it's working fine as far as I can tell. Here's my problem my 2002 Taurus Idle stop is set around 900 RPM (no dimming out of gear) holding at the 100 mark on Auto Zones meter but when I put my car in gear the RPM drop tp 550 to 600 only giving me an output of 68 amps so if I'm at a stop light I get slight dimming. I did a eye test and left my interior lights on and the get super bright when I get to about 1400 to 1600 (not exactly sure cause the guage isn't that defined) with absolutly no dimming. Has any one else had this gear engaged problem and can it be solved.

I have a recording studio and have folded horn pa subs and is the loudest and cleanest of all the pa designs. I was wondering if anyone has made a folded horn sub for a car (I've never seen one but maybe I'm ignorant) and the pros and cons. Thanks

With mine front windows half way down is the loudest, all the way down or up is weaker I have a trunk though. With my previous car a hatchback had no issues.

Her's a better pair for 10 bucks less Infinity 1262w-2-PACK (2subs_1262w) - 12" Subwoofers - Sonic Electronix

How hot is a term from studio/recording engineers, which is the level of the sound is being sent to the amplifier i.e. preamplification/volts from your head unit or from the recording itself basically no headroom on the verge of or peaking the signal coming in.

I'm confused

Damm guess I didn't post quick enough there was five posts by the time I finished mine

Yes it can, makes your amp work harder trying to pull in more amps. Also depending on how hot your signal is coming in you could be maxing out your amp even when the gain isn't all the way up. The only way to really tell is with a oscilloscope.