Robert

Sorry Iwent for some beer, no it does not have a remote lead just one of the two mounting holes has a piece of metal within the molding and thats for the ground. I will post pics.

I assume that is gonna drain battery over time....

I just installed the digital knukonceptz distribution block and connected a line for the ground so the digital display can work. My question is how long should the display stay on? Its been about 15min and its still on.

How much for that charger HF1215?

I tied remote line around positive on DMM then I stuck DMM neg probe into amp ground that is loose at the moment and with car idling I get 13.55 on DMM . I think that its going to be what Audibel said earlier or at least I am hoping its just the headunit messed up

dang this one must really get left in the dirt lol

sorry to edit now the amp doesn't turn on kinda hard to explain look at this thread to see where I started at. After that today I checked for cuts in my power line as well as re did my ground and i ran a temp remote line from amp over seat to the headunit remote while headunit out of dash to make sure everything is good and now this

look at where this all started I redid the ground and checked my whole power line for cuts and it was fine

kenwood

I should have seen it that simple Its just been dealing with finding out what happened with amp (its in another thread) almost four days later this is what I might be boiling down to. I have power flowing to the back of car and thats basically how I checked for current using positive on DMM to power cable and negative to the ground cable without amp connected I'm seeing 14.1 at idle then when I connect cables to amp with radio off I get the 14.1 then when I turn on radio voltage goes to zero. weird huh lol.

Thanks!

how can you test if a bad remote line out from head unit is causing amp not to on?

I rechecked everything I have done and now I have everything off car. Last thing I can add is that the RCA jacks on the back of radio were hot. My radio only has two rca outputs (front, rear) but I can change the rear to sub output which is the way I had it so to draw a picture the connections were like this, front rca to main input on EQ subwoofer out to subwoofer in on P1000 front out on eq to front in on P400 nothing wrong on the P1000 side P400 makes car idle erratically when it first turns on even by itself and no speakers wired into it. could have bad head unit rca's messed up the P400?

they are not parallel

amp is set to 2ch with just two speakers but this happens with nothing but remote power and ground connections to amp. Its like this amp puts a strain on car when it powers up

I had a P1000 - 1bd in the car also rockford 1/0 gauge from a XS Power S3400 under the hood to the trunk distro block and about a foot of 4 gauge power and ground to each and also 90 amp alt with big 3 done. I stripped everything down to just head unit and P400. voltage at battery is at 14.1 to 13.8 and the same at the amp. if I hook up the P1000 - 1bd by itself everything is fine.

today i changed rca cables left them disconnected tried different ground left speakers off the amp ran a new remote line and even ran everything directly to head unit and still amp overheats even with gains all the way down.

I posted this on another site but maybe I can get advice here, I have a 4ch rockford P400-4 set to 2ch and using two alpine 4ohm 6.5's. Everything had been working fine but lately say I am driving to work for about five minutes then I turn on radio you can feel the car kind of shudder a bit then after awhile of the radio playing the amp goes into thermal protect. The gains are under a quarter turn from zero and made sure the ground is good. Any ideas?

I hope this helps http://4xspower.com/old/application.php 150amp $475 idle 100amp 200amp $549 idle 130amp 250amp $600 idle 160amp The prices may vary from car to car but if you don't see yours drop them an email at [email protected] or Nathan at [email protected] They have always helped me with all my questions.

to keep pieces lined up kinda like a helper and of most boxes I seen they have screws throughout box. Granted I went a little overboard on screws but was told I could space them out about four inches apart. I'm going to bet getting those long clamps as my tool collection grows. The clamps I have are those angled corner ones so they weren't really putting pressure on the joints. Thanks for advice.

I built a box and used those 45" clamps to hold it pieces in place then quickly pre drilled and then set screws ( i had two drills) mopped up glue that came out as screws tightened down then I let it dry over night. I used elmers carpenter glue but I'm going to try out that tight bond out on my next box.

When building a sub box and putting pieces together how long do you clamp each pieces with glue until you pre drill and then put screws in and move onto next side?

Just to put this out there for anyone else that would like to know on pricing, amps, and idle output correct me if I am wrong. 150amp $475 idle 100amp 200amp $549 idle 130amp 250amp $600 idle 160amp I got these numbers awhile back not sure if they are still the same but hope it helps none the less and Please correct me if this list isn't in use anymore. http://4xspower.com/old/application.php

Thanks Nathan!