jearhart

That's who I used. Pete from Toxic Bass is a genious when it comes to box design. I just got my plans and am having the box made as we speak. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeah i've got a box he designed in my gf's car right now. 8th order bandpass for a 5.25 dayton midbass, running off the head unit and it will play down to about 40hz

team toxic bass does enclosure designes http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/products&services.htm

why not look at zed audio, they are a forum on here. but i never hear anybody talk about them

Thats awsome! what amp do you have on them?

I need to see a vid of one of these at full tilt

^^^^ yeah i am straying from my sq system goals with that part of my system, but i figure if the bass is clean its still sq right

good to hear, i cant wait to team 2rl-p 12s up with an md3

ax2000 http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=4414 md3 http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=6537

define upgrade, they will definately sound better. but they may not be louder, those audiobahns are pretty effitient if i recall. either way they will def. be more reliable and will sound soooo much better.

thats what brand my rca's are. cant remember what i payed for them(like 7 bucks i think), but it was really cheap for twisted cables, and they are built well.

There ya go, and yes they are supposed to be great amps

its where the music seems to come from, it should sound like the music is coming from the hood of your car, like it is a stage.

At least amp the front two, if you dont care about your soundstage than you can amp the rear speakers also. you will be wasting your money on those speakers if you dont give them proper power.

you can get aeroports at www.partsexpress.com

do you have pix of the gutts, i really want to see them

yes it still works, i dont know how well cause i was worried for my sub. and yes i plan to pay to have it fixed, i dont trust ikesounds warrenty. will usamps fix it and if so how do i get ahold of them so they can fix it?

ok, next question; is it safe to use or will it fry my sub?

^^^yeah im betting they wont, is there a number i can call usamps to see if they will look at it, also anybody know how much it costs to have an amp repaired? here are the pics i took.

last night i was working on my system and i was hooking speaker wire to the right terminals. the amp is a I/S2200. there was a sub hooked up to the left terminal. while screwing in the first of the screws, the sub moved really weird and sparks flew off the amp. then the amp started smoking, i shut my car off and unhooked the amp. it was still smoking, i took the panel off of it to look at the board, there were huge burn marks and there was an aluminum piece on the side of the amp that was half melted.(pics later hopefully) i put the amp back together and hooked it up to power and ground to see if the power light would come on. it did so i hooked the sub back up and it worked. while taking the sub wires back off the screwdriver touched the terminal and the case of the amp and it did the same thing as before. now i am afraid to hook the amp back up because i dont want to ruin my sub, i also unhooked my other amp thinking that it may be a wireing problem. i didnt buy this amp authorized:(. i bought it from ikesound, it does have a 1year warranty but there are like 50 things i have to do before they will even look at the amp. i dont know whether i should screw with that or if i should just send it to usamps to have it fixed. Cliff Notes: screwdriver touched speaker output and amp case at the same time, amp smoked and melted shyt. what happed?

Original non- strappable MD2 will be re-run until end of the year. At which time the MD3/AX3000DE strapping circuit will be used in design. End of Aug The 25th anniversary, limited edition MD2 and MD3 will be here. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> so does that mean you cant get an MD3 until Aug 25??

you can get a lanzar optidrive2000D for like $350 and they are supposed to be solid budget power.

prices went up it was 8-$45 10-$55 12-$75

yup she's movin!

1. is this a reading at the amp or at the batt, you loose voltage in the wire. 2. just rev the engine while watching the DMM to see how the voltage reacts to higher rpms. my guess is that the amp is supposed to shut off at 11volts or close to it and that is your problem.