Hzd Skizzy

What are the dimensions and tunings. I really like it. may want one done for mine

I was talking to guy at the local shop and he got me thinking about pre-amp voltage and line drivers. I have a Pioneer 3200DVD with 4v pre amp outputs. He told me that a line driver would boost that voltage and make a night and day difference to my system. If someone could tell me how they work, and what it would benefit to me if I got one. Head Unit is stated above and the amp is a saz-2500d. He exclaimed it was needed, I don't think it is. He may of been trying to make a sale. Thanks in Advance!

From a personal perspective, my friend has 2 kicker cvrs in a sealed pre fab and i didn't like it, but that doesn't mean you won't. Sa-12 would be an upgrade. 2 Fi X 12's would be cool too. SSA DCONS are also great subs. If it were me, since you did says sq, i'd go for 2 SSA DCON 12's. The shipping would put you a little out of that 250$ range but it's not like it's 250$ to waste. Sundown, Fi, SSA are all great, reliable companies. I have products from each of them and their customer service is unbeatable.

what are your goals for the system? Just by reading I'm guessing you just want some bass in your music and looking to get a little loud and stay good sounding. Am I right?

Troubleshoot it if you can. Find out why its getting hot. Voltage may be getting low, sub may be wired incorrectly and causing a very low ohm load.

Yes but you won't like the shipping cost.

the one you have now. Just keep it. AQ2200d puts 1200 @ 2 ohms so 200 watts more than your rf has no difference.

This is like the third thread you've made about the status of the BL's. Just continue in one of your previously made threads. It will come when it comes and Nick only has updates when he wants to give them out. You'll know when everyone knows.

Just keep the amp you have and save for electrical upgrades. You don't always need to bump up the power. RMS rating is there for a reason. You're not going to have any audible difference between 1000w or 1500w. You really shouldn't.

Very true, I bet Gopala would, but hey, taht would be giving Fi more business since he would have to buy a new re-cone! Or less business when this dumbass blows the N2 and goes around telling everyone that Fi sucks because "my N2 blew with no fault of my own". "People told me that the N2 wouldn't blow"

You can still blow a BTL N2. Any sub can be blown.

I don't think you should get any subwoofer to be honest. You lack every basic concept, you don't read, and your too hung up with the Fs. BTL n3 is strictly SPL, that's why the fs is so high, its meant for higher tuned applications. BTL N2 will give you low bass. Like Nick said, subwoofers do only what they are told to do. How low it will get depends on your application, like your enclosure for example. But my final advice is for you not to get any subwoofer at all until you learn a little. Any sub will blow. Not just Fi. You look like a damn idiot.

Sweet, I'll be waiting for them to come out. Any price on them yet?

So many different variables in determining which one is louder. Enclosure, port area, port tuning, your vehicle, the power, your electrical system, cone area. I've heard that the w7 is more built towards a sound quality based driver, the BL is more just being loud. Both are great subs no doubt, but for me, it would depend on the price your getting for that w7. I could do 2 Bl 15's for the price of the 13w7 at the local shop and still have some left over. Up to you, your sub, your car, your music preferences.

This thread is from 08

the port placement and sub placement is up to you man. If you want to get into some money and planning, you can place the subs and port facing the cabin and sealed off from the trunk. There are a good amount of builds showing that. If you can pull it off, it can be the loudest way. But then again you can go subs back port back and that would be good as well. I have also heard that subs back port side can be good as well. I have only dealt with the mazda 3 trunk.

Sorry for off-topic but, I'm 17 and when i say I got Ascendant Audio Havocs or Bravoxs speakers and Sundown amps people think I must have this off-brand piece of crap. It's pretty annoying when you know you bought some of the best stuff for the money and people just say that "Kickers will probably beat that sh*t". (Not saying Kicker is bad, but there is better...). I agree, /rant. Love the BTL by the way.

No it's just the bigger the box you have more efficiency and decreased power handling but smaller boxes have increased power handling but don't take that too literally , but the port area is on the lower end, for me anyways, but that's alright.

Nick is right, 1 4" aero won't be enough port area for that subwoofer. Go with 6". I plugged your dimensions into a calculator and got 4.05 ft^3 and that is after your wood displacement. Then subtract the displacement of your sub from the 4.05 then subtract the displacement of your aeroport then you will have the internal volume of your box after all displacements. For your aeroport, here is a website that can help you determine how long your aero needs to be to acheive your desired tuning. http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=ventcalculator Good Luck!

Awesome! What series are they in? If I was looking at the 220, what would the idle be and is it bolt-on ready to go? How much are the units? Or is it too early to be asking these questions? Thanks!

Your Sub will fall straight through and all is lost. A little more is fine, but make sure all the screws have somewhere to go.

Really like the box. Have to get mine going for my two Havocs.

Hello! I have kept my patience for your work! I was just wondering how it is coming. Really eager to know. Said sometime in march, so I was just wondering if any moves have been made on it. Thanks!

I am asking the thermal capacity with the 4 inch. I know how to run over RMS. I've been hearing a lot about needing to run BTL's over their RMS to reach their full potential and I don't wanna run over 5k. If you were asking thermal capacity then you should have stated that in your original post. Vague questions get vague answers. Actually, everyone knows how to run over RMS but not everyone knows how to keep a subwoofer from blowing when they run it over rms. *Edit to add*: As far as hearing that BTL's need over the rating to reach full potential is a load of crap. People overpower BTL's because everyone does it on youtube which makes people think that they can do that as well all day everyday. Then when they overpower the BTL they are all mad because they thought the BTL could take it all then proceed to blame the manufacturer.

usually if you have to ask "Can I run xxxx subwoofer on xxxx power?" Then it is probably not a good idea to do so. Yes the options will raise power handling but power over the rms rating at your own risk.