mpunklil

Looks like my low level signal might be a little too hot, and now that I think about it...I had to increase the sensitivity on one of my channels off of the LOC.22, time for more troubleshooting

Absolutely, and I would be embarrassed to even use it as a paper weight Well, that leads me to believe that the Crystal 8's aren't made for IB. Btw, I want to make babies with your avatar...sweet jesus she is a 10 Thank you, I wish I knew her name! Correct, but technically you can use any sub within certain parameters, the main one of concern from what I understand is the vas...and I highly doubt that both of my 8's have too high of a vas to use my trunk. I understand certain subs are more suited for IB to begin with. Technically I have a huge leaky sealed box and not a true infinite baffle setup. I'm gonna make this SOB work!!

Btw, I want to make babies with your avatar...sweet jesus she is a 10

Absolutely, and I would be embarrassed to even use it as a paper weight

They are on their way to be. The last picture shows the 1/2" x 40" gap between the rear seat and the rear deck lid. I just finished reinstalling the rear deck panel, so now it is down to about 1/4". It made a significant difference, and later on I'm going to home depot to pick up a piece of 1/4" hardboard. With carpet, that should make up the rest of the gap. Whatever gap is left over I can just get some 1/4" tall foam strip, the type with the adhesive on the back and that should polish it off if needed. I also turned the high pass crossover on (50hz), turned up the bass eq on the amp (40hz center), and it sounded ten times better...minus the fact that I'm getting vocals through the subs, which might be leading me to my NEW issue. Ever since I turned the high pass crossover on, my amp goes into overcurrent mode at loud volumes. Doesn't make sense considering the amp is 2 ohm mono stable. I found out that my subs were in fact 4 ohms, and I had them parallel which would be fine for that amp. I then wired them series so that the amp saw 8 ohms, which is beyond safe, and the amp is still going into overcurrent at high volumes. Checked both subs, and they are both sitting at 3.9 ohms, and the final load was 7.8 ohms that the amp saw. Shouldn't be an issue. The only thing I can think of here is that the impedance is dropping too low when the sub is playing vocals, so I'm in the process of tapping in a PAC inline low pass crossover. Once again, everything is temporary...just getting my feet wet with this car so that I can get everything setup correctly the second time around

Top View Bottom View Magnet Hang, 2 3/4". 3/4" plywood means 3 1/2" mounting depth. Fi 12's are 6 1/2" inches, so they would hang another 3 inches lower. I should make a 3" piece of wood and tape it to the back of the magnet to see how I like it Gap between rear seat and rear deck lid, approximately 1/2". Once the rear deck lid is reinstalled, it will only take up about 1/4", so I need to make a ghost panel to seal it up. This is where I'm losing all of my output volume.

Agreed, I will take a pic in a few minutes and upload it to show what I have going so far. The magnet hangs down a bit, and it is fully acceptable as of this moment. One sub hangs lower than the other, and you will see why when I put the pics up...my rear deck had some odd discrepancies to work with. Keep in mind, it is completely temporary, so don't laugh TOO hard at how ghetto it looks lol

Wow, a lot to reply to lol Duran: No sub sonic filter right now, nor does any of my equipment have a subsonic filter. Currently I'm just using the low pass crossover on the amp, but I'm thinking I can switch it over to high pass and set it at the lowest high pass setting (50hz) and then eq in more 30 and 40hz. Slope specs are not posted for the amp, although I would have to venture to say that it is probably a 12db slope at the most. I don't have a meter or spectrum analyzer to figure out what frequencies they are smacking at, but to an educated ear I would have to say in the 30-40hz region, I will break out the old bass mechaniq cd and figure it out later after I fix some leaks. 95Honda: T/S parameters are almost non existent to find now since Crystal died all I can find are parameters for the last year they made woofers...so I'm S.O.L. on that one. I should have printed them out about 10 years :/ It is certainly lacking, if the stock BOSE IB 8"sub with stock 25(?)watt amp was louder than the two 8's, then there is undoubtedly an issue. A lot of the output issue right now is a fat leak into the cabin. Funny thing is, my g/f said she heard me all the way down the street coming home the other day. I thought she meant my exhaust, but she said it was the stereo. I stepped out of the car, and BAM, I have bass...more bass than what I have inside of the car. Clearly my back wave is canceling the front wave inside of the car. On the bright side, that could be a two-fold situation. If I seal it up better, I may at that point need to lower my amp gain...thus reducing the power to the subs...thus reducing my voice coil from bottoming so much. ///M5: Fully understandable, I just want to get a good handle on an IB setup before I drop the coin on buying some IB subs. If in the end I'm not so confident about it, then I'm stuck building a box. I would rather be stuck building a box than stuck w/ some subs I'm not going to use. It's better to move forward instead of backwards NDMstng65: Well that's a shame, and if you don't mind me asking but what made them so far off? Granted I'm no woofer engineer, but curiosity does have me wondering...especially since there isn't a huge difference between 10's and 12's in MOST applications. I understand the whole manifold thing, but the goal here is to not have the added weight of a box, as well as still be able to drop down my rear seats. I never know when I'm going to need to pick up some lumber lol. Although, if the IB setup is a complete fail then I'm saying fuqit and building a fatass box that will probably never come out of that trunk lol. I figured I have about 8 cubic feet to work with in the end if I need to...as well as some 8" opening in my deck lid to direct port with hahahaha. Any suggestions on which sub works good in a 4th order bandpass?

Here is the TEMPORARY setup: 04 Audi S4 Deck: stock, low signal outputs converted to RCA with Soundgate LOC.22 Highs: stock components, 2ohm each Subs: (2) Crystal CPE 8" in rear deck, infinite baffle, 8 ohm woofers Amps: (2) Sony XM2252HX. One is on the highs, high current mode @ 1ohm/channel. One is on the subs, high current mode @ 4ohm bridged My question is, the subs bottom out real bad...worse than my stock 8 and at less amount of volume. I still need to seal up a major leak from the trunk to the cabin, which I will be taking care of tomorrow but that should only fix the volume portion. Considering they are just 8's, should I just run the built in amplifier high pass filter on them at 50hz since I don't have a subsonic filter? I would think that with my particular setup that a subsonic filter would be too low anyways. I am also tapping in a JBL GTE422 22 band eq, so I'm thinking that with such a high pass filter on the subs that I might be able to compensate by tuning in a little more bass around the 40hz region and overcome the crossover a bit. Could the bottoming be from not having a bumped back magnet? I fully understand that I'm overpowering a woofer, along with using a woofer that is out of it's context...I just want to get a good idea of what I have to work with before I start dropping money on a sub. Hell, I might even end up happy with what I have if I can get it setup right...or I might just be at all losses. Does anybody know if Fi is going to make an IB3 in 10"? I cant stuff the 12" in the rear deck, and a good infinite baffle woofer that can take some power is hard as hell to find! Anybody know where I can get a Crystal CMPx2 voicecoil repaired as well?

Money shot, I couldn't see that Cms was in um/N, instead of mm/N I knew I wasn't that dumb lol

Read the tutorial and it will tell you what you are doing wrong. I did, I think I'm just retarded. I get it, I just cant figure out what I'm doing wrong.

Yeah tried it that way, still no success. Anybody want to give it a shot?

Yeah I noticed it showed up small as a link. Cant figure out how to attach a pic on this forum either. Destined to fail lol. I followed the help file's direction, and I was able to save it...but it auto generated a fs of like almost 1k which is completely off as well as a vas of like 0.1 which is pretty damn ridiculous as well. I will give your method a shot. Maybe somebody can send me a driver file for the Fi SSD15 D2?

What am I doing wrong? Sorry, I'm new to this program

When is the next sale?

How "ballsy" is that MS8 as far as loudness?

ok....be cheap been their done that. Rather pay the extra for a nicer sub just what i would do specially a ssa sub little suckers are amazing! Where can i get a new 15" ICON for $229. Tryin to confuse me by puttin youre response in the quote huh . Not trying to be cheap just wanting to try out a different sub. Just wondering how he is comparing subs as being basically being same price when ther not. If i was trying to be cheap i would use the AQ subs i already have or the RD subs or the Sundown subs or the kicker subs. Just wanting to try something different. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/15%22-SSA-ICON-15D1%7B47%7DD2.html $295, close enough to $229.

Seriously?? Why???? You come onto SSA's forum asking about some Pyle subs...errr...PPI subs. Get an Icon man, practically the same price and it might last you longer than 5 minutes without making your car look like George Jetson's

Sounds to me like you are at a complete stand still then, it would be dumb to start dropping money on a car you arent going to keep.

I think Pyramid audio has a job JUST for you

Guys, I don't think he is going to be dB dragging at all, he just wants some good bumps. What he already has isnt bad, it just isnt setup right. You need a GOOD installer to set you up man.

Sounds to me like he already needs to do big 3 as it is! He is probably already starving that amp. Alternator, power wire, and get a new box. Watch what you already have kick some ass. Tap in a second pioneer woofer as well, and save yourself some real cash on the whole setup. If you have any extra money after that, look into a Braille battery and deadening. You are building a home on sand if you don't.

My jealosy is rampant <3

I've done this as well. I didn't want to mess with adjusting the latch and moving screw holes into the body and all that, so I just wrapped some tape around the hook on the bumper that the latch goes onto. That makes it tighter and helped. Tape will tear after repeated openings and closings, but I hardly ever opened mine so it wasn't a big deal. otherwise you could find something a little more sturdy to wrap a time or two around. all you do is take the hook off, oval out the hole with a drill, and bam done