BKOLFO4

One problem I see with all the crazy designs is that Fi does not post the t/s parameters for the subs with different options, so if you do not have the standard sub listed, Pete is using t/s parameters that may not be exactly right. Not saying he does not do some cool looking designs. . .just curious how he can be sure the designs are right for these subs.

The only hatch I have ever owned had (3) 10's sealed and it was LOUD!! I think the (2) 12's sealed woudl be more than enough. . .

A pair of 10's in the box dimensions above would work. Make a slot port on one end of the box that is 14.5 x 2.5. It will go into the box until it is 2.5" from the bottom and then turn and go another 16" With that box and amp, you could use SSD's or Q's You could also do a set of Q12's sealed in that box, which would sound really good. . .

I could fit (5) 12's on the baffle, but the load will be tough with your amp(s). Go with (4) 12's. 24 x 41 x 25 box. 22.5 x 6 port - 17.75" deep. If you run 1 amp, you could go with BL's with dual 1 ohm coils. You will have 8 coils. Wire 2 sets of 4 in series, then parallel the two sets for 2 ohms If you get a second amp, do BTL's with dual 2 ohm coils. Wire the coils on each sub in series, and then parallel each pair for two 2 ohm loads. Brian

Might work out ok. What are the box dimensions? What amp(s) do you have? Three 15's might work out better, or maybe four 12's?

5.5 net volume after displacements, or is that 5.5 gross?

Funny, Pete told you not to slant subs, and then they are slanted in his design. . .hmmm.

Sealed box is pretty easy. Shoot for 2.5 ft^3 gross volume. That is 2.5 * 1728 = 4320 in^3. As long as the INTERNAL W x L x D measurements multiplied together come out around 4320 you have your box design. You have way more than enough room without building a 2 piece box. 32" wide x 16.5" deep x 11" high would work. you could also double the top layer (top of box 1.5" thick) and go 34.5" wide x 16.5" deep x 11" high. You could also make it more of a square - 24" wide x 24" deep x 11" high with a double top baffle. There are a lot of choices - just do what you like best.

And you have how many??

It is just a spacer. . . The larger diameter magnet gives the motor more Bl than the triple stack of smaller diameter magnets. Scott said in another post that this sub has more Bl with a daily universal gap than the old BTL had with the SPL tolerances. Brian

What a sweet little Dayton Titanic 15 next to it (only 15 I have sitting around) Brian

It is almost as tall. . . I might have received (4) of them.

Man, pictures cannot capture the beauty. I was going nuts when I got this thing uncrated. This is a 15". The picture HAS NOT been resized in any way. The motor is just so big it makes the picture of the sub look flat. It is just crazy. . . Seriously. Anyone that thinks it looks funny will eat their words the first time they see one in person. Crazy. . .still can't believe it. . .

I will soon be after you again Scott, Nick, and Shawn have been nothing but helpful to me. . . even before I was a FI/AA customer. Brian

How much port area? You have dimensions? Maybe aero ports could get you a little more airspace. I run my BTL's in slighty under 3 ft^3 each tuned to 34-35 Hz and they sound great. Brian

Depends, what are you waiting for?

That is my problem. . chat room doe snto show up. . .

How do I get setup to chat?

I am pretty sure mids are ready, tweeters are ready, crossovers are not. Would have to build your own crossovers, or run active. PM me and I can get prices for you (if you are in North Texas like your info says). Brian

Have not clamped them yet, so here is all the info I can give you all based on measured SPL. Some of it may be usless, but it may give you an idea. I know the strapped pairs of MD3D's were doing over 4200, and I know the 40.1's at 0.5 are doing more than strapped pairs of MD3D's. Even at 1 ohm, the 40.1's were very close in output to the MD3D's. With the 40.1's at 0.5, I gained exactly 2 dB vs. running them at 1 ohm. And one last thought - I have not measured impedance rise with these subs, but if I use every other sub that has been in this enclosure as reference, I will guess I am running just under 1 ohm total load. Every sub I have measured in this box runs an average of 2X the DCR for my measured impedance.

If you have room, and you want loud, seems like the choice is obvious between 12's and 15's. . .

I have been running mine for a couple of months at 0.5 (0.35 DCR) and I LOVE to play them full power. No problems at all. Man they make some series power at 0.5. You can pick them up used around $700-750 - worth every penny Man nick, I hope you don't have something coming that is going to make we want to change amps. . . I am finally almost happy with my system.

If you have 14cf, I would do (4) 15" BL's Brian

This will work: 2.25 ft^3 tuned to 33 Hz. Brian

But if you don't run at least 5000 watts to a BTL it will not sound good. . . .HAHAHA If you have room, (2) will be awesome on 4000 watts. At the same time, I beat the crap out of mine on 4000+ each all the time and don't have a problem. If I get the volume up where I know the amps are clipping, I smell the coils every once in a while. If I keep the power clean, I have played them full power for long periods of time without any problems. Brian