Everything posted by BKOLFO4
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is my setup ready for 2 18" BTL'z
Is the amp installed right now? How does it do with the (3) 12's? I would think 3 batteries and a 200 amp alt would be enough. Do you have a volt meter?
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Getting ready. . .
Scott has my money, so I should have subs next week!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
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will it really sound that bad?????
That is pretty close to 2.25 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz. Brian
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will it really sound that bad?????
You could do: 6"td x 9.5" bd x 39"w x 20"h, 4" flared port 13" long. The 4" precision port is $14, but worth it: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=268-352 It is not the normal required port area, but the large flare will allow you to use a 4" port with a single 12" sub. Brian
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will it really sound that bad?????
I can help you with a box. Is 57" wide x 20" high x 6" deep (top)/10" deep (bottom) correct? Should be plenty of reeom for a ported Bl 12". Brian
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is my setup ready for 2 18" BTL'z
If you are not installing them because you are worried about tinsel leads breaking, you may be in trouble. . .
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Fi Q's (2 15's vs 1 18)
I vote for the pair of 15's. . .
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BTL 18" 4000watt
IA 40.1 used. $750. http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...;highlight=40.1
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Sealed Box - 2 FI Q18s
Looks awesome. . .
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Fi 15" BTL options and thermal q's
You lose Bl strength with the daily gap and the cooling option, so all else being the same, you lose output. I have gone from MT's to BTL's with the cooling and daily options (pretty much like going from SPL option with no cooling to daily option with cooling). Lost a little over a dB on the meter, but could not tell any difference playing music. Cooling is night and day difference if you play at high power for any length of time. MT's were always getting hot and stinking. BLT's with cooling would take the power all day long Brian
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Best tuning for 18" BL
I would tune to 33 Hz as already stated. 4 x 29 port will work fine. How much net airspace? I have always heard you do not want to go any higher that a 1:8 ratio on Width x Height. Brian
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SSD 15 sealed
"We are currently doing testing for sealed boxes, and I will post information if we think that it is ok to use sealed. Otherwise at this point stick to a ported enclosure."
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let me know
Chad has Epik Subwoofers now. . . http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/index.html Scott has AA. . .
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Sub box tuning
Nothing wrong with two different size ports. . . You will have to just add the second port and actually test the system to determine the best tuning for maximum output. As already stated, they only way to achieve your best seup is testing, testing, and more testing. Add the second port as long as it can be, test it, cut an inch off, test it, cut an inch off, test it, etc. Figure out the best combination for maximum output with the space you are limited to. It takes time. If you find the second port adds more output on the meter, you can plug it for daily and open it when you want to meter. A lot of people do that with slot ports. Build an insert for daily tuning, remove the insert for metering. When I built my suburban the first time, I spent several days testing port lengths/tuning frequency to obtain maximum output with the space I was willing to give up for the enclosure. Brian
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box question (again)
If you don't mind the ports sticking out, make them 14" long and push them into the box so they are no more than 4" from the back wall. . .
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help with volts
- Getting ready. . .
Hey Scott, Skip sent money orders out last night. Should have gone out today. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D Brian- box question (again)
Definitely not much port if they are not flared. As far as tuning, you can't change it much due to the depth of the box. You could try 4" ports x 11.25" long to see if it sounds any better. that puts the port 4" from the back wall and lowers the tuning to around 37 Hz. The drop in airspace with the additional length of the tube is not enough to matter. You could also experiment with adding polyfill to the box. Add it away from the port, so it will not affect the airflow through the port. Brian- I wanna compete in SPL
3 BTL 15's 2 more 40.1's 4 more batteries How does the 40.1 like 0.5 ohms? What voice coils do you have and how are they wired? I just ordered my new subs dual 1's for 0.5 ohm load on my 40.1's. Can't ever get a clear answer on if they will take it. . . Brian- BTL Material
basket is aluminum. I would think the motor parts would be steel. . .- whats a good driver?
If you can handle $650 for sub and amp, the IXL-18 from Mach5 and Dayton 1000 watt from PE. Just did a IXL-18 in 12 ft tuned to 18 Hz with the 1000 watt chassis version of the Dayton amp. Amazing for the money. Otherwise, the MJ18 and the 500 watt Bash as already mentioned would be a nice low budget setup for under $350.- Enclosure, for one or two Q's.
I have never tried that with a ported box. . .Bandpass box, but not ported. Seems like that would cause a heavy emphasis at the port tuning frequency in the cabin of the car. Anyone actually ported a standard vented box through a rear deck? Not saying it won't work, just curious. . .- real power of a 40.1 ?
they are pretty big: 10.08 W x 25.6 L x 2.71 H Brian- Fi BL problem...
What box are they in? Sometimes the box can make the subs act different depending on the driver and port placement. You can also try swaping the subs to see if it looks like the problem follows the sub or is something with the amp(s) or amp settings. Brian- KnuKonceptz 1/0 or WeldingSupply 1/0
Because people will pay for it. . . - Getting ready. . .