DarkTinman

All i had before this was 2 12 inch kenwoods pushed with a 1000 watt kenwood amp then upgraded to a 1800 watt amp lol. In these pictures i am using that 1800 kenwood amp with a 1800HC battery. I'm going to upgrade to a 3.5k DC audio amp

Pictures of the calipers installed will be up tomorrow!

After looking at the pictures above, yes i do see that one of the all threads look really crooked, i will be sure to fix that before the final product is done. (more surprises coming soon!) Old JVC pos Installed Getting these installed as we speak. Should have pictures sometime today! And just a bit of FYI, i plan on making my car a dark gray with a black DC audio decal on the front of the hood/driver side. I know it doesn't make much sense but the inside of my car is going to be blue also, along with my DC subs. So it will all look nice and clean once it's done but little steps at a time.

All thread used, here are the pictures Board on top

First strip! Ohhh! Driver side mostly done Everything done, got dark quick... Sorry for the blurry images, my fingers were really cut everywhere lol... Next time i will be wearing gloves. Oh and the very back where my box is going to go

New pictures! Alt in! I just installed it today, pictures tomorrow. Pictures of the floor ripped out and etc And the carpet dirty to clean!! Clean!!

Alright so i thought i put up my build of my accord on here but i didn't. So here it goes. I'm not done yet so it obviously won't be a complete build! Car in the shop ready for work View of the floor before we started with the DC sub hooked up and just free airing Old amp rack Battery in the back, HC1800 soon to be 2 Picture of the wires and engine False floor in Looking at a back panel to put in Box without the top back panel Panel fits! Semi finished box just sitting on it's butt Bbbbracing Hole cut AND sanded Will it fit? Yes! So we had to take it apart and put it back together but after we finished the box we thought it wouldn't fit when we tried to get it in. So about 2 days later i said screw it and just took out the seatbelts in the back + the panels and boom, it fits. We were first off by a half inch lol Side view, it will stretch to the B pillar Back view of the box From the front This is all dry fitted in, so i am not done at all. This is just test fitting and stuff like that. Bracing and stuff will be done soon. This box will also have a removable port, the hole sitting where the port should be isn't a port, just the cut out. The front will have mdf sitting in front and more will come. Again, don't assume this is my finished project, there is still a lot to go

Also i have some more questions. Me and my engineer friend were talking about how we want to build this box. We came across some more questions that we wanted to throw at you all. All answers are GREATLY appreciated! First off, we wanted to have a Removable Front Piece, meaning, where the front of the wall/where the subs will be mounted to, if we made it a removable piece but put rubber gaskets over the sides so that it will be sealed. Now, as general as this is, my question is, will it not be able to seal properly and will i lose air/numbers because of it. The reason we want to do this is so that we can get to the subs and easily get into the box etc. What do you guys think about this? We would be screwing in/bolting the front piece. Double nuts etc. Everything would be secure. Second, mounting the subs. I have looked at builds and i understand how people do it sorta, but no one really explains what bolts they use. We were both wondering what exactly we would use. We aren't sure if wood screws would be enough. Also, i do understand how to make subwoofers flush and stuff to the box but i just don't understand what the screws need to be! Third, and lastly, I have talked to many people about the different boxes and sizes. I have learned about bottoming out and more about how much the box size matters. We (when i say we i am talking about myself and the person who is the engineer helping with the project) were assuming that we just need to build the box big and tune the port. Well with all of this new information, i don't even know anymore. So the biggest thing is, what is the minimum and (maximum?) space we can have for the box with out bottoming out or doing anything that could harm the woofers. I honestly have a lot of questions about this part and this is the most crucial part of the box! Thanks again for all of your answers, you guys really have helped me along and i look forward to more of your help!

Um probably around 500-800. Seeing as most amps sit around 750ish. And yeah maybe, it's a one step thing at a time. I will upgrade the alt, more batteries, and some secret stuff! But yeah i plan on upgrading for sure!

Haha no. I want a reliable amp. And i don't have UNLIMITED funds. No one really asked my price range. But i can buy whatever amp honestly, price isn't THAT big of a deal

Yeah sorry. I know that brand names can be good. It's just that I get a lot of my questions answered by people who honestly don't know what they are talking about sometimes. And they like to recommend things that would never work. Oh really? I had no idea why they weren't just level 5's... So what's the difference from the upgraded 4's and the Level 5's? Your saying nothing?? What do you mean Big Box brand names? yeah i hear Sundown, American bass, AQ, crescendo and some others. Still not sure honestly...

I will soon be working on walling my 1997 Honda accord with 2 18 inch DC subwoofers (level 4 with level 5 soft parts), running on 1 (soon to be 2) HC1800 batteries with stock alt, 1800 kenwood amp, zero gauge. Now i will be working on this project and i should be done sometime after December. My question for any car audio smarties out there is this, I will post the stats of the subs below for the level 4's and the level 5's. Now keep in mind that they are STILL level 4's but they contain level 5 parts (such as motor and spider). So my subs will fall in the middle of level 5 and level 4. Now the real question is this, What amp do you think i should be running to these woofers? I will be SUPER pissed if someone post something like, Alpine, MTX, Rockford, etc, etc. These are BRAND names that will NOT push the RMS i need on these subs. If you don't know much about car audio, PLEASE don' t post useless answers like that! So what do you think? I was looking at maybe some AQ's but I'm not quite sure. If you have any amps you are selling, feel free to let me know! Level 4 The Level 4 sub is a large double stacked motor weighing in at almost 30LBS each, wrapped in a magnet boot with a chrome top plate and T yoke yielding 23.5mm of X-Max You also get with the upgraded progressive spiders, cone, surround, 3" coil, cast basket, push terminals and upgraded lead wire. The Level 4 is rated at 1000w RMS and 2000w peak. Designed for ported enclosures and is a great choice for high-powered daily systems and competitors Key Features • Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly • Multilayered polymer foam surround • Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo • 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spider • Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire • Cast aluminum black frame • FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined • Rubber mounting gasket • Chrome spring loaded push terminals • Dual 2 ohm 3” Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former • Rubber magnet cover Level 5 73lbs triple stacked 1" slug, FEA optimized monster. We use a 8-layer flat wound 3" coil. Its available is D1ohm or D2ohm configurations. We also use upgraded multiple progressive spiders, upgraded cones, surround, lead wire, a cast basket and push terminals. Key Features • Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly • Multilayered polymer foam surround • Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo • 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spiders • Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire • Cast aluminum black frame • FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined • Rubber mounting gasket • Chrome spring loaded push terminals • Dual 1ohm or 2 ohm 3” 8 Layer Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former