Tirefryr

GM that backwards in 98???It was a requirement as of 96, so no if we are indeed talking about a 98. I'm very curious how it controls timing though. It must have an ignition module somewhere. It should be EDIS though

Pun intended?

We're all assuming OBD2, but I don't think so given he still has a distributor.

What is the year, make, model, and engine in truck?

I am guessing something to do with the a/c compressor clutch. If shutting off the a/c solves the problem, you should be close to a diagnosis. When was your last tune up? How many miles on the motor/truck (if different)?Truck has 131000 on it, changed the spark plugs, wires, and oil around 2K miles ago, mechanic shop put a new distributor on... soon i will have the transmission oil changed as well as the fuel filter, also gonna clean the mass airflow sensorYour timing is off. Distributor was changed and it loses power under heavy load. You need to advance timing. They probably set everything straight up and left it.

It's a small block coupe. Very little cocollectibility. Hell, he wants to paint it purple, so I'm sure he's not concerned about it.

I might have something for you. Let me go measure depth. Is that your new pick up line? Dude, shit has been crazy for me lately. I had no luck with the internet dating thing, so I just stopped. Next thing you know, I'm meeting bitches left and right, and getting laid like crazy. No effort. I am exhausted.

Now THOSE I do have.

What do you have? I'm looking for new sub / subs 4 Fi 90dolla 10s.

Shit, nevermind. 5.5"

I might have something for you. Let me go measure depth.

The carb is wrong because everything else is. I won't comment on his hatred of Holley. Honestly, I woukd get some casting numbers off the heads geton the Mustang forums and get more information. You just need to know what you have first. There's so much knowledge out there and engines are simple machines.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump.Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs.I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot. If you're running fine and not getting any knock, I wouldn't worry about your timing. Just be aware hotter air is less dense and more prone to preignition.Your cam may be advanced ir retarded depending on sprockets. So you are saying I may need to back the advance off bc its warmer ouside now? How would the cam sprocket play into the equation, or how could it effect me?If you are detonating, pinging, knocking, etc, back the base timing a couple degrees or run higher octane. ignitiin has nothing to do with your vacuum issues though.

Your cam and carb are too big. Factory heads will not flow, wait. Are they HiPo heads?

I don't know if you've posted, but what heads are you running?

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum. when I read the first sentence, that was my thought. Honestly, I think your cam is too aggressive and your heads too small.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump. Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs. I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot. If you're running fine and not getting any knock, I wouldn't worry about your timing. Just be aware hotter air is less dense and more prone to preignition. Your cam may be advanced ir retarded depending on sprockets.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump. Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor.

You should always have vacuum unless boosted. It is independent of fuel or spark.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again.

I am carb stupid. Small engine carbs, no problem, but I've never worked on an automotive unit.

I disagree. Great tool, and great design. way too crude for flush mounting How so? I like better than a 1/16" Doesn't make it crude or a bad design. Once you add finish, that 1/32 on either side is perfect. The tool is well made, well designed, and works repeatedly without incident for years.

I disagree. Great tool, and great design.way too crude for flush mountingHow so?

I disagree. Great tool, and great design.

Nextels?